Dodge Challenger Forum banner

81 - 100 of 249 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Was driving to work and only made it a half mile from my house before a loud bang proceeding with my engine sounding like two shoes in a dryer. Had a couple of mechanics look at it and I have a hole in the engine block (pretty sure I threw a rod). Not sure what happened, car gave me no signs of engine failure. No oil leaks, clicking that I could hear, smoke, the engine light didn't even come on when it blew. I took it to Dodge but they haven't granted the powertrain warranty yet. They are saying I don't have enough scheduled oil changes on it which I don't, but here's the thing. I use Amsoil Sig Series full synthetic which is rated for 25k miles, so I don't change my oil very often because of this. Amsoil even has a warranty on their oil for this specific case.

I ended up getting a couple samples of the oil to send to Amsoil to test and make sure that was not the cause. I still need to give approval for Dodge to do the engine tear down which I will do once the test results are back.

I looked at the oil samples too and it looked fine. Barely black, more of a dark brown and very liquidity. No slush or any other impurity defects that I could see.

I am wondering what would cause this?? The mileage on my car is a lil over 71k and I only put about 11k on that synthetic oil. Really hoping something is up with the engine and Dodge fixes it under warranty.
Understand this on oil samples.........and pay attention..........YOU WILL ONLY SEE WHAT IS CURRENTLY THE CONDITION OF THE OIL. YOU SAID IT RAN A FEW SECONDS AFTER IT WENT KAPOWY...THUS IT PUMPED THE GUNK FROM THE FAILURE INTO THE OIL. If you haven't been doing oil samples you will not know anything more than you currently know. DO NOT LET ANYONE TELL YOU THAT THEY CAN. Oil samples do not determine the past. Do not let ANYONE tell you they do! REPEATING you will not find the cause, do not allow a current oil sample to affect your warranty! Oil sample programs are used in fleets and are done at oil changes and in between to catch problems before they become major failures. I use them in my truck fleet, detect bearing wear, piston wear, ring wear as all of these have different alloy signatures and when the parts per million go over a certain amount is can indicate a part is wearing. For example....copper is inside the babett of the bearings and if you see it you ether have thrust washer or other bearing problems. This can only be seen if a program is underway. Most synthetic oil used by fleets is heavily monitored. If your oil backs the mfg warranty....you better get to writing those letters. Chrome is rings in many cases.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
like many others here, I'm very interested to see how this turns out for you. I'm very skeptical that either will step up and cover you, and that's less about you and more about the bogus, loophole filled ridiculousness that plagues most warranties.
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic in most of my engines, except for my 6.4L Hemi, SRT Challenger. I use the factory SRT Pennzoil and Mopar SRT filter. I've run Mobil 1 for 15k in my wife's Subaru Crosstrek commuter car, with only one issue. Having to add some oil several times between oil changes to replace for burn off, evaporation, etc. call you t what you want. That engine has a top mounted screw on can filter too and I've contemplated replacing it every 5k just because I easily can, but still haven't. I may be pushing the envelope , but for a combined 100k+ on two Crosstrek, I've been ok, or maybe just lucky.

The manufacturer's recommended change interval will likely be the killer here. And the funniest thing, look at my new RAM Rebel. It has an oil life meter, and still in the recommended interval in 5k miles or every 6 mos. Some years I don't drive 5k at all on any of my several vehicles. So in theory, regardless of mileage, it should be changed every 6 mos anyway.

I've had great results with the long life span oils, but we pay through the nose for them and hope and pray what happens red here doesn't happen to us.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I completely agree - that is why I don't use Amsoil. :) It's a lot easier to just use something like Pennzoil Platinum and change it every 5k miles or 1 year and keep warranty coverage.
Agreed; According to latest test Penzoil Ultra is equivalent to ScAmsoil. Make sure it's Ultra Platinum as Platinum and Ultra are different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
I park my '12 R/T in the barn for half the year and change the oil come spring. That's more than six months, obviously, but I assume it's enough. Any thoughts?
As far as intervals are concerned, yes you're good IMO.

Oil must be changed every 6 mos, regardless of mileage, for the warranty police.
 

·
Registered
2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
As far as intervals are concerned, yes you're good. Oil must be changed once a year, regardless of mileage, for the warranty police.
2012, no warrany left I assume, and on current SRT engines, 6 months OR 5,000 miles. So once a year = no warranty.
 

·
Premium Member
2012 Charger Pursuit
Joined
·
5,559 Posts
All this oil talk is a little premature. It seems to me they will need to tear the engine down and determine what broke, them they will try to decide why it broke. If they decide something other than the oil caused the breakage, there’s no reason to even discuss oil with them, IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Good Luck and don't be afraid to take it all the way up the corporate ladder if you need to. I change my oil yearly in a thousand or so miles. I will change more than once if my engine hours exceed sixty, but that does not happen too often. Your intervals do not seem to be the issue. I would let them tear it down and see what is found. That is the next logical step besides endlessly speculating.

I hope that everything works out for you and you have your ride back soon!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Without getting too involved in this oil thread, the engine failure cause is not due to the oil used. However, at 71K it would be a bit difficult to get the factory to warranty it due to miles traveled, and lack of documentation for regular maintenance may bite you in the ass, sir. Look for a good used engine from a low-mile wrecked car and swap your current ventilated paperweight out, not that hard to do if you have access to a good 2-post hoist.
I kept(and still do)and dated all my receipts from my AmsOil purchases when doing fluid changes in my '12 R/T and documented in the owners' manual what was done with each round of maintenance. It has paid off handsomely with the car now at 120K miles and running like a watch. I have kept my oil and filter changed as per factory recommendation(8K miles)even with the AmsOil usage, and do a differential oil change with each oil change because the gear lube quantity is not very much(around a quart and 1/2 at best), and trans oil is changed every other oil change(16K miles w/M6 manual).
No problems here, no oil leakage/usage, just good service from my car that I paid good $$ for. Use whatever oil works best for you as long as it meets or exceeds factory spec.
 

·
Registered
2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
I have seen a few thrown rods through the block, all were due to bearing failure, all were due to oil failure. So I don't understand the "can't be an oil issue" It sure can, doesn't have to be, but whatever part failed is an internal oiled part, that I will bet on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,019 Posts
Sheesh, Walmart sells penzoil pure premium for 22 bucks a 5q jug, and a decent filter- bosch, wix, mobile1, will set you back maybe 10-12. that's about 50 bucks every 6k. that about 850 bucks per 100k miles. hows that sound to all the Amsoil lovers out there. Snake oil.
Don't know about the older Scat Packs, but for my 2018 Dodge called out the 0w-40 oil.

A search of Walmart online doesn't show Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 Full Synthetic oil available in 5 quart jugs. About half a dozen other Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oils are available in 5 quart jugs.

While the list price is around $10/quart (or was) in every case the Dodge dealer -- and I had the Scat Pack serviced once and the Hellcat now at two different Dodge dealers -- the dealer discounted the oil to around $6/quart.

(One dealer didn't even charge me for the oil/filter service due to a mix up that had the car done but someone failing to inform me for over an hour...)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,019 Posts
<snip>

Use whatever oil works best for you as long as it meets or exceeds factory spec.
There's the rub.

Admittedly the "jury" is still out on the cause of the engine failure but if the engine failure is attributed to the oil it may have cost the OP an engine to learn the oil he chose didn't work so good. If so that's going to be one expensive oil test.

My advice is to always use the oil the factory calls for or oil which is clearly labeled as being a suitable replacement for in this case Dodge oil. Change the oil and filter at least accoriding to the factory called for change interval.

My only modification to this would be to consider changing the oil/filter more often than the factory calls for. Some usage can call for more frequent oil changes: Track use for example, or lots of short trips, maybe with stop/go driving and lots of idling.

In my case my cars do not see short trips and see limited city stop and go driving. Even so while Dodge calls for 6K miles/6 month oil services for my Hellcat I have the oil changed every 5K miles (or 6 months). For my MINI JCW MINI calls for 10K mile oil services but as with the Hellcat so too with the JCW and it gets 5K mile oil/filter services.

If the owner elects to change the oil more often how more often is up to the owner. Some may go overboard but it is their car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
664 Posts
I park my '12 R/T in the barn for half the year and change the oil come spring. That's more than six months, obviously, but I assume it's enough. Any thoughts?
It's best to change the oil before you park it. That way you have clean oil sitting in there for the 6-8mo it's parked. The oil will still be good to use in the spring. The reason the oil needs to be changed is due to the additives only having a limited capacity to neutralize the impurities that are caused by the combustion process (and sludge if you don’t use synthetic). Based on that you should only have to change the oil once a year. As a safety measure you could use an extended drain interval synthetic as there may be some degradation of the additives as some of the impurities that remain after the oil is changed which could have an affect even with the car just sitting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
604 Posts
It's best to change the oil before you park it. That way you have clean oil sitting in there for the 6-8mo it's parked. The oil will still be good to use in the spring.
Agreed and that's what I do. But because my car has the 392 in order to maintain my warranty I'm required to change it in April after changing it in October. The car has been put away for the Winter so that means I need to change my oil with 4 miles on it. Not going to happen. I'll roll the dice.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Was driving to work and only made it a half mile from my house before a loud bang proceeding with my engine sounding like two shoes in a dryer. Had a couple of mechanics look at it and I have a hole in the engine block (pretty sure I threw a rod). Not sure what happened, car gave me no signs of engine failure. No oil leaks, clicking that I could hear, smoke, the engine light didn't even come on when it blew. I took it to Dodge but they haven't granted the powertrain warranty yet. They are saying I don't have enough scheduled oil changes on it which I don't, but here's the thing. I use Amsoil Sig Series full synthetic which is rated for 25k miles, so I don't change my oil very often because of this. Amsoil even has a warranty on their oil for this specific case.

I ended up getting a couple samples of the oil to send to Amsoil to test and make sure that was not the cause. I still need to give approval for Dodge to do the engine tear down which I will do once the test results are back.

I looked at the oil samples too and it looked fine. Barely black, more of a dark brown and very liquidity. No slush or any other impurity defects that I could see.

I am wondering what would cause this?? The mileage on my car is a lil over 71k and I only put about 11k on that synthetic oil. Really hoping something is up with the engine and Dodge fixes it under warranty.
I wish you the best of luck. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it seems unlikely, if the service schedule was not followed, that FCA would cover the repair. It’s even more unlikely that Amsoil will step up. You know the old saying “pennywise and pound foolish never works”
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I feel your pain, I’ve experienced catastrophic failure of my 5.7 at about 56k. Oil changed by dealership ever 3k. I’ve been through the whipping machine of of FCA Chrysler Corp. A broken valve spring and dropped valve seat was blamed on water intake in the engine. It happened on a 8 degree winter day. It was stated by the dealership due to snow built up on the function hood scoop traveling though the cold air intake all factory or Mopar performance items. Long story short the claim was denied. Good luck but prepared to be denied I’ve had the engine rebuilt by a performance shop and was told this was not a result of water in the motor. Attached is the dealership reported that everyone stood behind.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Probably a busted timing chain.
I wouldn't be surprised Crow...any loss of oil pressure would likely have lit up the dash like a Christmas tree and would have been accompanied by a heck of a lot of noise prior to the failure.

Having worked for a dealership, I would be amazed if FCA covers the repair...they will use any excuse, legitimate or not to try to avoid that warranty cost.

I hope I'm wrong Vader...keep us posted and Good Luck!
 
81 - 100 of 249 Posts
Top