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you're right! here in the UK a 2016 hellcat with 4000 miles dark grey asking £64,000 ( $83,000) with NO factory warranty
when they come here its zero warranty unless the dealer is prepared to do something
 

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Just my 2 cents. For what it cost to do it right. wouldn't it make more sense to get a Hellcat with factory warranty? There are plenty of good deals right now.
For me, I've invested less money than the cost of a hellcat and will have more power. It's also special to me because it's something I've created and there aren't many out there.
 

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Just my 2 cents. For what it cost to do it right. wouldn't it make more sense to get a Hellcat with factory warranty? There are plenty of good deals right now.

Find me a Toxic Orange Hellcat and maybe I'll buy one! :) Yes there are deals to be had, the Hellcat was
NEVER going to be a "collectible" car, not at 3000+ units a year for the past three years. If someone wanted
a fast factory car with a warranty it's a no brainer. My car is paid for, my supercharger is paid for and any
other parts that go into it will be paid for and I'm enjoying the build! :)
 

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I hear you Toxic11! Dodge is finally catching up with my "little" '10 R/T. I may have to now up the boost a little more (@15.5 lbs.) or add a hit of something. But then I have nothing to prove except that I have a one of one that I made. Taking a 372 hp engine up to the 850 hp range is no small feat for sure and is not cheap. I understand what a lot of people say about a factory car with factory warranty engine, drivetrain, etc. but that just makes it one of many. Plus I just love the change of something that you can actually say I had something to do with this and it's awesome! I can say this from experience now for anyone considering buying a 840 hp Demon. If you can afford it, BUY IT! There is no feeling like getting into it at say 60 mph and all hell breaks loose and within seconds you are already in the "danger zone"! Go Mopar!
 

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I have a16 Scat Pack that I'm voiding the warranty on but it will be faster than a stock Hellcat for a little less money . I probably should have bought a Hellcat ....... I want Hellcat performance but I like my shaker car more .. I would have voided the Hellcat warranty also because I CAN'T leave anything stock. It's against all my beliefs.
 

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I had my supercharged Scat traded for a Hellcat for 2 days before the dealer called and said the bank backed out which makes no sense. I had to return it but it did not feel any faster than my car but it has a lot more potential to start with. I think the dealer decided that they do not want my trade so they made up a excuse. I should have had the bumper and exhaust off to see if they wanted it back.
I really liked all the informative gauges without having to ad anything though.
 

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I've been running 7 psi on a Whipple for nearly a year (8K miles) with the stock bottom end with no issues, no codes, and no Check Engine light. Mine is making 610 wrhp, with a 15% loss that puts it right around 718 hp at the engine. For the cost of a Hellcat I was able to buy my car new, install a Whipple supercharger, replace the rear cradle bushings, rear control arms, rear tension arms, front and rear sway bar end links, front control arms, add weld on subframe connectors, replace the springs with the KW adjustable springs, replace the front wheels and tires with 9.5x20 wheels (285/35 tires) and rear wheels and tires with 10.5x20 wheels (305/30 tires), and purchase a rollbar.

I just returned from the Bondurant School of Racing where I drove a Hellcat Challenger for 2 days and I can tell you that the Hellcat and my car are equal in power but my car can out handle and hook up better than a stock Hellcat all day long.
 

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Please expound on this one. where did you get the set of bushings(link please:D), are they solid or a poly? I would like to eventually change mine out when I upgrade the halfshafts
I installed the Whiteline poly bushings, part number W93343. You can get them from Speedlogix or High Horse Performance. Speedlogix shows that they fit up to a 2014 but they will also fit a 2015.

Whiteline Front & Rear Cradle Bushing Kit 05-14 Challenger, Charger, 300, Magnum

Whiteline subframe Crossmember - front & rear mount bushing - W93343
 

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SrtAndy
when you done your internals what mileage did you have on it ?, I`m considering doing just the pistons and rods I`ve done just over 9700 can I use drop in ? with out going to the further expense on re-bore advice would be great
 

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Yes our drop ins have thicker ring lands. And yes the factory rings expand with excessive heat and detonation that causes them to expand and break a piston. You also have to remember that the stock 6.4 is a high compression motor so that also plays a part. However 6lbs of boost and good fuel and tune will work fine on a stock motor, Is it bullet proof? no but you should be able to get lots of fun out of it.

 

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the E-Force (part no1535) for my 392 its got a 3" pulley should be good for 6psi I use 98 octane here in the UK its just having that
solid thought that having forged internals your happy !! if I go for it at 9700 miles on the clock will the piston walls still be at 4.09"( stock size) trying not to do re-bore hopefully just cross scratch the bores what do you think in your experience?
 

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I had around 15k miles on mine when I went forged. no machining was required for me cylinder wise. All i did was dingleball the cylinder walls myself to freshen it up for a nice crosshatch. probably wasn't necessary as I could still see the factory crosshatching, but I did it anyway.

SrtAndy
when you done your internals what mileage did you have on it ?, I`m considering doing just the pistons and rods I`ve done just over 9700 can I use drop in ? with out going to the further expense on re-bore advice would be great
 

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Drop ins are recommended for up to 40k Miles. as long as no catastrophic engine failure
Modern Muscle,

What about someone with 50-60K miles on the clock? Do you have the Drop-In's in a + 0.10 over? I hadn't
looked to see if they were offered in anything other than stock bore size. Once my new car is in the garage
here in a few weeks, I can finally yank my block and start getting serious. :)
 

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Modern Muscle,

What about someone with 50-60K miles on the clock? Do you have the Drop-In's in a + 0.10 over? I hadn't
looked to see if they were offered in anything other than stock bore size. Once my new car is in the garage
here in a few weeks, I can finally yank my block and start getting serious. :)

Yes we do have them in oversize. However just because someone is over th recommended mileage doesn't mean they need an oversize. Just means the bores need to be inspected more.
I have seen 100k mile blocks look nearly new, and 40k blocks look like 200k miles if you know what I mean.
 
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