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Was driving around and smelled a funky smell. Didn't think much of it, possible my cabin filter. Got home Parked it. Next day drove around parked it in a park parking lot and when I was walking back to it, I noticed a leak under the car. Thought it was water since I had the AC running and realized that it looked like orange oil. Did not think it was coolant.

Limped it home no overheating but has smoke spewing threw the vents, shut off the AC and parked it, then realized the driver floor was soaked -_-

It was antifreeze. Nice and oily feeling since it is the orange looking MOPAR stuff.



I got quoted $1600 by my local Dodge dealer and $1500 @ another shop since it is supposed to take a little over 7 hours to do the job. the Whole Dash has to come out. Why is it soooo hard to replace this on Challengers?!!?!?!?!? and Why out of allllll cars i've owned, did it happen to the Challenger?


I ended up Making a bypass for the heater core meanwhile i save up some coin. Did have to top it off again since it actually began running hot after I was testing for leaks after creating the bypass.


I was not able to find a good service manual. I am willing to try it myself since I don't trust most shops.


Has anyone ever replaced this?

Anyone have a copy of the manual they can sell me? that isn't like $200 hahaha


Any tips on replacing this??

I kind of want to bite the bullet and have a shop do it, I just don't want them messing up the air bags or sensors, or anything glitching out after they tear the dash apart



Happy 4th everyone!:banana:
 

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The heater core is at the center of the dash - so the console and the dash have to be removed to access the heater core / A/C evaporator. Probably have to pull the steering wheel to provide clearance when removing the dash.

Many Euro makes have the similar layout - the FCA RWD cars use the similar layout, as they were derived originally from Mercedes platforms.
 

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I had a 1994's Ford Thunderbird that the heater core went out and it ran me $800 back around 2001 or so.
Was 7 hours labor also because Ford decided to bury the heater core too, whole dash had to come apart.....and yeah, there were squeaks and rattles after!!
 

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Do you really need heat in California?!?
when the temperature gets down into the low 40s (inland can get into mid 20s in areas in winter) its pretty unpleasant to be bundled up as if you're outside.

Then there's the issue of the windows fogging up due to low interior temp and the warm breath you're exhaling.
 
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Copied this from another site. Not sure it's accurate, but sounds easy enough :surprise:

REMOVAL, HEATER CORE
The HVAC housing must be removed from the vehicle and the two halves of the housing separated for service access of the heater core, evaporator and the mode, recirculation and blend doors.

WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

WARNING: REVIEW THE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS BEFORE PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - WARNING - HEATER SYSTEM), (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - WARNING - A/C SYSTEM) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTION - A/C SYSTEM).

Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM RECOVERY).
Partially drain the engine cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM).
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
Remove the coolant recovery container (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY CONTAINER - REMOVAL).
Remove the screw that secures the accumulator mounting bracket to the body.
Remove the two bolts securing the accumulator tubes to the evaporator terminal block and disconnect the tubes from the terminal block.
Remove the seals from the refrigerant lines fittings and discard.
Install plugs in, or tape over all of the opened refrigerant line fittings and evaporator tubes.
Disconnect the vacuum harness at the power brake booster (A/C Vacuum Line - LHD Shown, RHD Typical).
Remove the rubber drain tube extension from the condensation drain tube (Dash Panel - LHD Shown, RHD Typical).
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened heater core tubes to prevent coolant spillage during housing removal.
Remove three HVAC housing retaining nuts located on the dash panel in the engine compartment.
Remove the instrument panel from vehicle (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT PANEL ASSEMBLY - REMOVAL).
Remove the mode door and temperature control cables from the mode door and blend-air door levers and the HVAC housing (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/MODE DOOR CABLE - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLES - REMOVAL).
Remove the defroster and floor distribution ducts from the HVAC housing (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/DEFROSTER DUCTS - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/FLOOR DISTRIBUTION DUCTS - REMOVAL).
Disconnect the wire harness connectors.
Remove the outboard HVAC housing retaining screw located in the passenger compartment (Housing Screws-LHD Shown, RHD Typical).
Remove the remaining nut located on the dash panel stud.
NOTE: Use care to ensure that the interior is covered in case of loss of residual fluids from the heater and evaporator cores.
Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle

REMOVAL, INSTRUMENT PANEL
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Push seats back to their full back position.
Using a trim stick (special tool #C-4755) or equivalent, gently pry out on left and right A-pillar trim moldings and remove.
Remove the instrument panel top cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP COVER - REMOVAL)
Gently pull up on cluster bezel and remove from vehicle.
Remove two screws. Then gently pull rearward on left lower instrument panel cover and remove from vehicle.
CAUTION: Lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. This will prevent clock spring damage when the steering wheel rotates freely.

Remove steering column. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN - REMOVAL)
Remove left and right instrument panel end covers.
Remove left and right cowl side panels.
Remove floor console. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL)
Depress the sides of the Data Link Connector (DLC) and remove from instrument panel reinforcement.
Remove two center support mounting bolts.
Remove left and right A-pillar mounting bolts, two on each side.
Disconnect right side antenna connector.
Remove left and right A-pillar door harness connectors (A-PILLAR DOOR HARNESS CONNECTOR).
Disconnect two harness connectors to HVAC at right top instrument panel (INSTRUMENT PANEL TO HVAC HARNESS CONNECTORS).
Disconnect one left side harness connector at top left of instrument panel for vanity and rear view mirrors.
Pull off the HVAC control head knobs.
Remove both A/C outlet barrels.
Remove two screws retaining the top front of the center bezel.
Using a trim stick or equivalent, gently pry out on the instrument panel center bezel and remove.
Remove the two retaining screws to the HVAC control head.
Disconnect the one instrument panel wire harness connector.
Disconnect the one vacuum harness connector.
Pull HVAC control head out of instrument panel, twist 90° and push back through the opening (HVAC CONTROL HEAD). Do not disconnect the control cables.
Disconnect the center console wiring:
Airbag Control Module (ACM)
Parking Brake Warning Lamp Switch
Transmission Range Indicator Lamp
Shift Interlock Cable (ATX)
With help from an assistant, remove two bolts on top of the brake pedal support bracket. Pull rearward on instrument panel assembly and remove from vehicle.
Remove center A/C duct from the instrument panel (A/C OUTLET LOUVERS).

DISASSEMBLY, HVAC HOUSING
Remove the HVAC housing from the vehicle (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC HOUSING - REMOVAL).
Place the HVAC housing in the upright position on a workbench, making allowance for leakage of fluids.
Separate the air distribution foam seals at the case parting line (HVAC Air Distribution Foam Seals - LHD Shown, RHD Typical).
Remove the evaporator and heater core tube foam seals from the housing (Lower HVAC Housing - LHD Shown, RHD Typical).
Remove the retaining clips and screws that hold the upper and lower housing together.
Separate the two halves of the housing.
Remove the heater core and evaporator from the lower housing as necessary.
A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Holy crap yea that's a lot of work. I've worked on and have rebuilt older cars but this is one of the newest I've had to deal with. True I hardly use the heater here in CA but that defrost -_-. Gonna save up and shop around and cough up the amount to just have it done right . I just don't want thinks that we're not broken before to end up broken or a rattling dash. I feel like I can't trust most mechanics in my area now days
 

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Do you really need heat in California?!?
LOL, everyone thinks it doesn't get cold here.

Where I live Inland it's about 1,200 feet elevation not real high but we'll see temps in the "Winter" months of high 20's 30's quite a few times and high 30's low 40's many times. I've lived here since 1994 and we've got 3 or 4 inches of snow like 3 or 4 times, rare for the snow but cold temps are common from December through March at night. Warms up to the 50's or so during the day when it's real cold at night.

The Desert areas of Lancaster/Palmdale gets into the teens from December to February at night and they get snow but it usually doesn't last too long.

High Desert of Victorville/Apple Valley/ Hesperia can get snow and cold temps also.

The "Grapevine" Pass on I-5 leaving L.A. and heading North gets closed because of snow very often from December through March.
 
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I just wanted 2,000 posts.........carry on! :grin2:
 

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A Guy
 

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:icon_lol: HA!!!!! Knew that was comin!!

(says the man with almost 4,000 posts in a year!!) :grin2:
 

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Where do you think I got the badge? :D I've been known to post a bit...

Clipboard01.jpg

A Guy
 
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