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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't get any pictures during the install because it was cold and I busted my knuckles too many times to even pick up the phone, but I figured I'd outline some of the install for these.

First, the instructions they provide give a TON of extra, unnecessary steps. I didn't have to remove the fuel line, shocks, e brake cable etc. For the back 2 bushings I literally just took the bolts out, let the cradle drop enough, put the ring on top, and then the bottom washer type piece after shaving the excess rubber off the bushing and tightened it up with a little space for movement to do the fronts.
For the fronts I had the stupid limiter plates, I used a 1/8" drill bit, then 1/4", then 3/8, and a pry bar to pry them off, pretty straight forward. Then again trim excess rubber off bottom of bushing, and repeat the same steps. Bolts get torqued to 124ft lbs.
This all took me about an hour, hour and a half. You will find it much easier doing the fronts with the wheels off to get easy drilling access to the limiter plates if you have them. I had to use a few washers on the upper trailing arm bolt so it could clear the lockout plate on the driver's side, and 1 additional washer on the passenger side, this was not detailed in the instructions. The trailing arm bolts are torqued to 83ft lbs

Tools required-
18mm socket
ratchet
breaker bar
Torque wrench (for 83lb and 124lb)
Razor blade preferably with a long adjustable length blade
Drill with 1/4 and 3/8 bits, preferably a smaller bit for a pilot
Jack,2 Jack stands
18mm wrench (to hold nut on lower railing arm upper bolt)
 

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Premium Member
2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
Joined
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1,505 Posts
I didn't get any pictures during the install because it was cold and I busted my knuckles too many times to even pick up the phone, but I figured I'd outline some of the install for these.

First, the instructions they provide give a TON of extra, unnecessary steps. I didn't have to remove the fuel line, shocks, e brake cable etc. For the back 2 bushings I literally just took the bolts out, let the cradle drop enough, put the ring on top, and then the bottom washer type piece after shaving the excess rubber off the bushing and tightened it up with a little space for movement to do the fronts.
For the fronts I had the stupid limiter plates, I used a 1/8" drill bit, then 1/4", then 3/8, and a pry bar to pry them off, pretty straight forward. Then again trim excess rubber off bottom of bushing, and repeat the same steps. Bolts get torqued to 124ft lbs.
This all took me about an hour, hour and a half. You will find it much easier doing the fronts with the wheels off to get easy drilling access to the limiter plates if you have them. I had to use a few washers on the upper trailing arm bolt so it could clear the lockout plate on the driver's side, and 1 additional washer on the passenger side, this was not detailed in the instructions. The trailing arm bolts are torqued to 83ft lbs

Tools required-
18mm socket
ratchet
breaker bar
Torque wrench (for 83lb and 124lb)
Razor blade preferably with a long adjustable length blade
Drill with 1/4 and 3/8 bits, preferably a smaller bit for a pilot
Jack,2 Jack stands
18mm wrench (to hold nut on lower railing arm upper bolt)
What's your impression so far, make a big difference? I have a set myself ready to go in.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
 

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Registered
2010 R/T Classic 6M
Joined
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1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's your impression so far, make a big difference? I have a set myself ready to go in.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Didn't get to try a real dig but on a 40 roll the car felt much better. Instead of the rear just hopping around it felt planted and squatted when I hit the gas
 
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Registered
2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,351 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Forgive my ignorance, but how does the lockout kit work and why does it give better traction?
Reduces movement in the cradle bushings which reduces wheel hop. Even after cradle lockout and trailing arms my car still hops sometimes but that's because I need new shocks
 

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Premium Member
2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
Joined
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1,505 Posts
Reduces movement in the cradle bushings which reduces wheel hop. Even after cradle lockout and trailing arms my car still hops sometimes but that's because I need new shocks
When installing mine the lower front cap runs into the bushing so it hangs down about 1/8 of an inch. I actually broke a cradle bolt on the drivers side front corner. Pretty sure it's because the anchor point is extended. When I compare it to the hop not version the front lockout is much more shallow and it stops at the bottom of the bushing and sets level with the subframe.

Does yours seat right upto the subframe or does is hang down some as well?

Appreciate any feedback.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
 
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