[O_Racing]

since i am tracking every month and raise my front rotors to unfriendly temps i have decided this week end to toss the fog lights on my 2013 SRT and install a pair of Allstar cooling fans sucking fresh O2 from the outside blowing onto the rotors via a bunch of high temp cooling ducts

these babies draw 3.5 amps @13.6 volts; can I hook them up to the fog lights harness; are the fog lights drawing similar amperage?

am i ok to do this?

let me know, auto electric wizards

Thanks

ODP :laugh2:

 

[Go Goody]

Why don't you not use fans. Just remove the fogs and run ducting

 

[Woz10]

He already has ducting stick with the srt via the cutouts in the front splitter. Sounds like this guy is serious and needs some more air.


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[briand]

these babies draw 3.5 amps @13.6 volts; can I hook them up to the fog lights harness; are the fog lights drawing similar amperage?

I believe the standard fog lights are 55W units. W = IE, I = W/E ...


55 = x * 13.6, x = 55/13.6 ... x = 4.04A


also, not sure where you got that 13.6V figure from. standard automotive "12V" systems typically measure 13.4V (at which point, the stock fogs draw 4.10A).


either way, if you can verify that your fog lamps are 55W units, then it would be safe to assume you could run a 46.9 watt fan on that wiring harness without any issue.

 

[O_Racing]

He already has ducting stick with the srt via the cutouts in the front splitter. Sounds like this guy is serious and needs some more air.


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indeed; the SRT stock ducts are actually working; i had the stupid idea of removing one, on the CAI side to pull in fresh air for the said CAI and i ended up heating the driver side front caliper so hot that i burnt the red paint on part of the caliper while i managed to reach only a burnt out red becoming fuscia color on the rest of the calipers

the brembo decals became yellow because of extreme heat and i finally cracked by stock rotors and said good bye to them after my stint at Thompson speedway week end

the air flow via ducts loses tons of speed/velocity so the fans are required for constant cooling while on duty and accelerate during cool down laps

the stock SRT duct is good for the bottom part of the rotor but is not enough directional but still efficient in a way; it is a must keep

i am just adding a second flow of fresh air

TA/2 race cars have three ducts going to the front and 2 for the rear on what I have seen at the track

would love my rotors to last 10 to 15 track days.... but that's just a dream or goal

lol

ODP:wink3:

 

[O_Racing]

I believe the standard fog lights are 55W units. W = IE, I = W/E ...


55 = x * 13.6, x = 55/13.6 ... x = 4.04A


also, not sure where you got that 13.6V figure from. standard automotive "12V" systems typically measure 13.4V (at which point, the stock fogs draw 4.10A).


either way, if you can verify that your fog lamps are 55W units, then it would be safe to assume you could run a 46.9 watt fan on that wiring harness without any issue.

great feedback! thank you!

 

[wasp392]

Can you post a picture of the "fog light delete" if you will. I too am planning on that option. I was maybe thinking if I could fabricate something that will direct the airflow to the brakes/rotors.


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[O_Racing]

Can you post a picture of the "fog light delete" if you will. I too am planning on that option. I was maybe thinking if I could fabricate something that will direct the airflow to the brakes/rotors.


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i will take my camera and take a few vids;

will also give u the list of tools needed as u need to remove the wheel wells to access them without issues and too much work

will give rivet part numbers and will take pix as well

the fans will be steel riveted in the fascia

will start a thread tonight

ODP

 

[O_Racing]

Can you post a picture of the "fog light delete" if you will. I too am planning on that option. I was maybe thinking if I could fabricate something that will direct the airflow to the brakes/rotors.


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ok went to a CT member garage and started to work on the task at hand

bottom line it is not a task it is a project; and since the car is daily driven i need at least 2 / 3 days to bring down the fascia and make something work; i need more tools, the K member is huge and the belly pan is in the way; if i was able to stick the duct it would barely fit between the K member and the front radius lower arm; i need to work something out and the fan does not fit very well either;

imo, i need a day to plan and get the right supplies, day 2 for action, day 3 to mount everything back and 1 extra day for unforseen crap

I also have a front APR splitter to fit the STR and it does not fit at all; APR said it was for Challengers; they must have smoking the pipe because there are a lot of work to make it fit and withstand 125 lbs of downforce without ripping apart the fascia

unfortunately i have nothing more to share for now

i think i will take a week off and take the time to do it right

it's possible to do to make it work... i think; there is a lot of fitting to do; that's all

ODP

 

[iamawild1]

Look in your car book. You should have an empty slot in your fuse panels.. one in the engine fuse box (#14 I believe) and another spare fuse slot in the trunk fuse box. No need to tap into any other electrical component. Add another fuse and run your power directly to the box.

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[O_Racing]

Look in your car book. You should have an empty slot in your fuse panels.. one in the engine fuse boys (#14 I believe) and another spare fuse slot in the trunk fuse box. No need to tap I to any other electrical component. Add another fuse and run your power directly to the box.

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thank you! great idea; will take the rear off; the front scares me with all this circuitry board in there; would not try to run wires from there; but yet, no pain, no gain as they say;

don't feel like cutting wires either; that's not clean and deteriorates the original harness; that's a shame :crying:

ODP - >

 

[iamawild1]

thank you! great idea; will take the rear off; the front scares me with all this circuitry board in there; would not try to run wires from there; but yet, no pain, no gain as they say;

don't feel like cutting wires either; that's not clean and deteriorates the original harness; that's a shame :crying:

ODP - >

Front or back.. fuse box is a fuse box. The way my cutouts are wired you would think it came from the factory like it is. Nice and clean install. No spliced wires anywhere... you could even put a switch on the dash to turn them on/off. Lots of ideas... I have a parts list I can post so if you decide to tape directly into its own fuse, you'll know what's needed. Like adding a breaker to a house panel. Same principal..



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[wasp392]

Any updates?


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[1Fast392]

I would suggest running your fans off a relay. I assume you will switch them on/off manually. Here's a sample wiring diagram I found.


http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30101.pdf

 

[O_Racing]

Any updates?


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been traveling overseas non stop, broke my finger that required steel pinning and my daughter tore her ACL on varsity basket ball so $$$$ spent on surgeries and time caring for others....so no chance for me...

and it sucks...oh well

ODP

 

[wasp392]

been traveling overseas non stop, broke my finger that required steel pinning and my daughter tore her ACL on varsity basket ball so $$$$ spent on surgeries and time caring for others....so no chance for me...



and it sucks...oh well



ODP

Sucks. Get well first. I just took off my fog lights and love it. Painted the hole black. Looks great. My temps also have dropped by 3-5 degrees. My exhaust has gotten a little louder too. Should of done it a long time ago.


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