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Hello, I was looking for some brake pads for my 2018 scat pack challenger since they start squeeling at times. It seems too early for me to already to change them. It only has 23k miles but anyways. I was looking at the power stop Z23 or Power stop Z26? Which do you guys recommend through past experience.
 

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Z23 and Z26 is same pad material, I've had the Z23 for a few years now and no issues, very clean and quiet and stop very well for a street pad.


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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Hello, I was looking for some brake pads for my 2018 scat pack challenger since they start squeeling at times. It seems too early for me to already to change them. It only has 23k miles but anyways. I was looking at the power stop Z23 or Power stop Z26? Which do you guys recommend through past experience.
Do you seen any signs of abnormal "wear", abrasion on the any of the rotor surfaces? Are any pads extremely worn? You have to check all pads and from all directions. Pads may not wear uniformly on all sides and may not wear uniformly from wheel to wheel.

If not and if the squealing is not ear piercing -- if it is this can arise form something caught in between the rotor and splash shield -- then the squealing may be eliminated by a brake wash.

In other words you want to be sure the squeal is not from a mechanical problem with the brakes nor wear.

With a number of cars prior to my 2018 Hellcat and including my Hellcat after a while the brakes develop a mild squeal generally most often occurring when pulling up to a stop while of course using the brakes. I can sometimes hear a faint squeal when slowly driving through say a parking lot.

That I believe happens is the piston dust boots collect brake dust. As the pads wear the pistons must extend further out. This exposes more dust boot area to dust.

By washing the brakes the dust is removed.

I use a DIY car wash and use the wand setting to wand soap and spray each wheel to get the wash party started. Then I go around the car again with the wand in its rinse setting. Then I go around again using the no spot rinse setting.

Wtih the wand setting to soap or rinse I avoid getting the tip too close to where the spray which is quite forceful from possibly damaged the rather soft dust boot material. Tear one and you have created a real problem.

But I aim the spray at the brake caliper and as best I can at the gap between the caliper and the rotor to hit the pads and flood the area in there which of course includes the boots with soapy water then rinse water.

If you doubt that there is any brake dust just use the rinse setting first. The water will run black as it carries brake dust off the brake hardware and the wheel surfaces.

With the no spot rinse setting the water pressure is less so you can get the tip of the nozzle a bit closer but still avoid jamming the nozzle tip right to the pads.

After the washing be sure to drive the car and use the brakes hard enough and often enough to get them hot to thoroughly dry the brake hardware includng the parking brake hardware buried in the rear hubs.

Put the car away with wet brakes and you can end up with more serious problems than a bit of superficial dust on the brake pad dust boots.

Also note that with real wet brakes the initial application of the brakes might provide the braking action you are used to. That's the water. But rotors with grooves or holes are less likely to be affected but still try to use the brakes early on to at least remove the water.

I like to when possible to perform and mild brake bedding in procedure which gets the brake hot but not as hot a as a full on brake bedding operation -- there is no call for this -- to ensure the brakes are hot and dry. But always avoid bringing the car to a complete stop with the brakes applied when doing any bedding in like procedure.

After you want to then drive the car normally to give the brakes time to cool down.

Really while it might seem a bit farfetched this washing operation has dealt with mild brake squeal a number of times with a variety of cars most recently my 2018 Hellcat.

Give it a try if you want. In my area it costs a few bucks in quarters (less than $5) for I usually just wash the entire car at the same time if only using the nozzle spray with no brush scrubbing.

If it doesn't help you can always explore more expensive solutions but that can bring about its own set of problems.
 

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I have had both the Z23 and the Z26 pads on my SRT. The pads are great for daily driving, no noise, very little ( if any ) dust. Hawk also makes a really nice street pads that in my opinion has a little more bite.



- Alexis
 

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Mine started squealing at 6k miles. I got the Z23s and have been happy with them. They do squeal occasionally, though but nowhere near as bad as the Brembo pads.
 

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2018 Challenger R/T 392 6 speed manual
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I’ve had some pad squeal with the pads on my scat pack with the dynamics pkg. On other vehicles, replacing pads with quiet, low dust pads has resulted in less bite and what feels like worse braking. I’m not sure how you can have low dust, low noise and good bite/braking. I feel like compromise needs to happen somewhere unless the 6-piston Brembos are so good that a reduction in bite is overcompensated somehow. I’m on the stock pads for now but always interested in options.
 

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I’ve had some pad squeal with the pads on my scat pack with the dynamics pkg. On other vehicles, replacing pads with quiet, low dust pads has resulted in less bite and what feels like worse braking. I’m not sure how you can have low dust, low noise and good bite/braking. I feel like compromise needs to happen somewhere unless the 6-piston Brembos are so good that a reduction in bite is overcompensated somehow. I’m on the stock pads for now but always interested in options.
What you say is true, if absolute bite and the best pad for performance or racing use is what you need, then don't get the Z23 or Z26 pads. These are street pads and there is definitely less bite. But I have 6 - pistons and overall the car still has plenty of braking.

I also have the adaptive cruise control and with the stock brakes every time the car needed to slow down there was a big hit from the brakes, now it's nice and smooth.

I have never driven the 4 - pistons with these pads so not sure, but I still think they would be OK.

The 6 - pistons are just so massively overkill for daily use that you can easily afford to give some of that up for much better livability on the street.


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2011 SXT Built in the Canada Plant
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Perhaps one thing that seems over looked on a few post, Which Model of Challenger, Driving Style, Daily Driver or Weekend Toy, Climate as well to help narrow down some things that are inconsistent with different products people are using if your driving a Demon then the Brakes, Tires, Etc wont be same with a SXT / SE , an AWD vs a Std model etc.,? With the Brakes I noticed even with an SXT there is Single Piston Stock and Dual Piston Stock front Calipers etc., Non Slotted Non Drilled Rotors will trap more dust and affect Pads and Noise. Just my observation on several discussions...
 

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2018 Challenger R/T 392 6 speed manual
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What you say is true, if absolute bite and the best pad for performance or racing use is what you need, then don't get the Z23 or Z26 pads. These are street pads and there is definitely less bite. But I have 6 - pistons and overall the car still has plenty of braking.

I also have the adaptive cruise control and with the stock brakes every time the car needed to slow down there was a big hit from the brakes, now it's nice and smooth.

I have never driven the 4 - pistons with these pads so not sure, but I still think they would be OK.

The 6 - pistons are just so massively overkill for daily use that you can easily afford to give some of that up for much better livability on the street.


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Appreciate the comments. Mine is street driven and the bite is great but gets the family’s heads nodding forward fairly often. I’m fine with it because I want the quick response since I drive it a bit faster than I would my other cars. I’m not talking about high speed runs or anything.

The other car I was referring to is my Ridgeline. After the original pads wore out, I installed Hawk Green and they were great in terms of bite and slowing the vehicle. The warmer they got the better they slowed what is a heavy car. The dust was pretty bad and they started to make noise, so I put in EBC Yellow. Almost as good braking but not quite. Still dusty but noise was better. Then I went to Akebono aftermarket that are supposed to be quiet and clean. And they are but I have to stand on the brake to get them to work. I mostly drive it for truck duties locally so it’s fine but I saved the Hawks and might put them back on one day. I think they are semi metallic hence the noise but good braking. So yeah, I feel that we have to decide what we want from our brake pads and then what we live with.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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I’ve had some pad squeal with the pads on my scat pack with the dynamics pkg. On other vehicles, replacing pads with quiet, low dust pads has resulted in less bite and what feels like worse braking. I’m not sure how you can have low dust, low noise and good bite/braking. I feel like compromise needs to happen somewhere unless the 6-piston Brembos are so good that a reduction in bite is overcompensated somehow. I’m on the stock pads for now but always interested in options.
That is also a concern of mine, to try to reduce brake dust -- which is a "natural" by product of braking -- by seeking a low dust pad at the risk of compromising braking is border line madness.

The pads still generate dust. The dust only seems to be less because the pad material is lighter in color than the rotor material. As I have observed when washing the brakes the water runs black with dust. That's mostly iron. (There is likely some tire rubber dust present, too.)

So for low dust pads the pads must wear more to shift the dust production from the rotors to the pads. The pad material is "weaker" so the braking action is less and pad wear is accelerated.

I'd certainly give brake washing a chance to eliminate brake squeal while retaining the braking the car came with from the factory. A few dollars in quarters is a small price to pay to find out if washing works.

If it doesn't one can always then I guess try some other pads but as I have mentioned washing always worked for me to eliminate brake squealing. I've never had to go to an aftermarket pad in an attempt to address this. I've always stayed with factory brake hardware to keep the braking behavior I was accustomed to and to ensure the best chance of long and trouble free brake hardware service life.

An argument for different pads even different rotors could be made if the vehicle usage changes. Obviously for track work a change in brake pads/rotors maybe even fluid could be justified.
 

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2018 Challenger 392 Shaker B5 Blue
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I may be lucky, but my scat has 15k miles and so far no squealing from the Brembo pads. I also have the Dynamics Package. The most I get is some brake dust, which I thought about swapping out
 

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I may be lucky, but my scat has 15k miles and so far so squealing from the Brembo pads. I also have the Dynamics Package. The most I get is some brake dust, which I thought about swapping out
Yeah I started getting the squealing shortly after that but I also took it an oval track that year and was hard on the braking.
 

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I have the 4 piston Brembos, OEM pads and 28k miles.

I power wash the brakes regularly at my local DIY car wash. Then take it for a short cruise to blow dry them off! Lol

No squealing, and regular washing only keeps the brake dust from accumulating.

No plans on changing out the OEM pads. Like how they bite and stop.
 

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I have the 4 piston Brembos, OEM pads and 28k miles.

I power wash the brakes regularly at my local DIY car wash. Then take it for a short cruise to blow dry them off! Lol

No squealing, and regular washing only keeps the brake dust from accumulating.

No plans on changing out the OEM pads. Like how they bite and stop.
How often do you power wash them?
 

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During a normal season, on average, twice a month when I wash my car.

Sometimes more if it really gets dirty.

The key for me has been keeping them clean, and getting them dried off before parking it.
 
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