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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I need advice from anyone that’s done this swap. I’ve been reading the how-to’s on the forums but still have some questions.

Getting my Brembos next week from a 17 Charger to swap on my 16 Challenger. So far they are coming with knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, brake lines, abs wires, & dust shields.

I noticed they don’t come with parking brake cable, banjo bolts and the nuts that secure the ball joint to the control arms. Can I re-use my R/T ones?

I have WRT wheels too.
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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116 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Cool thanks. I will post install pics when completed!
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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116 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I started working on mine yesterday. I had to remove all the control arms, stabilizers, endlinks, etc. I have to get a 12mm hex/Allen key to break that bottom bolt loose still.
These had some surface rust on the front hubs so I cleaned them up. They cut the emergency break cable so I removed the piece they left on both knuckles.

After I remove that 12mm hex, I’m gonna spray a little black paint on those hubs to keep that rust from coming back on the back side. I have a few spots on the calipers I have to hit with red touch up paint as well. The car must of seen a rough winter where these came from.

Will post pictureS when completed.
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #7
Finally finished the swap. Here is some pics. Shout out to the forums for support and snowcat256 for the help.

10408084-DA6A-4D68-A1D0-CFEA29A6BA97.jpeg
B5CF6A04-0F90-4E34-87BE-3A3A3A6E60F5.jpeg
9F034E66-1389-478F-8BFE-4C9F80C18B67.jpeg
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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Looks great (y) You need to change your sig now ;)

A Guy
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah pretty awesome. Getting use to the difference. Sensitive pedal it seems now. It almost completes my build. Now a Magnuson SC in the near future.
 
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I am about to undertake this same swap in my 2010 R/T. The knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and brake lines come with the package. What else is required (besides new pads, of course). How difficult is this to do? My car is a bit heavier being a convertible now, and this should help out. They are off a 2012 300 SRT8. Was told they are a direct bolt on for my 2010 Challenger. And, yes, I bought new larger offset wheels a couple weeks ago to clear the calipers. Any advice, PM or otherwise, appreciated.
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #12
Well my front are a bit different than yours. The year you have, has a hub nut that isn’t reusable from what i’ve read. There is a how-to on the forums and the Charger forums too that explain what part # you need for those 2 spindle nuts(1 for each side).
Everything else I used from the brembo set. I did reuse my abs wires from mine because the condition mine were in and less miles. Also hopefully yours came with the e-brake cables attached. Resetting those if not equipped was tedious but can be done with patience.

It is a long process but be patient. When it comes to bleeding the brakes, I did the 2 person bleed “without” turning the key on to keep from risk any bubbles going to the abs pump and setting any codes and it worked like a charm. Just bleed pass rear, driver rear, pass front, then driver front.
 
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Thanks for the info. I go pick up my set from Cleveland Power and Performance this coming Friday. I will dig around for the hub nut part number. Do you think the wheel bearings should be replaced while it is in the floor? I'm leery about parts from wrecked cars....
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #14
Usually CP&P are good about testing their products before selling them. I didn’t purchase mine from them but have always heard good things about the service they provide.

wheel bearing will probably be rusty but don’t worry cause my 15k mile garage kept challenger was rusted too when I did the swap because they aren’t coated. You can check them by just spinning the hub to see if there is any binding or noises. I don’t see very many people on here changing wheel bearing but using yours for assurance isn’t a bad thing. I used mine and kept them 22k mile ones that came with my swap from the Charger.
 

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Thanks for the response. My car has 18K on it, so I will swap them into the spindles of the 300 SRT8. I looked them up and they are interchangeable. The SRT8 had like 60K on it. And, if anyone reads this thread, the part number for the one time use nut is 06504007. Going to get a pair of nuts tomorrow. :)
 

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Furious Fuchsia 2010 Challenger R/T Classic A5
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I am about to undertake this same swap in my 2010 R/T. The knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and brake lines come with the package. What else is required (besides new pads, of course). How difficult is this to do? My car is a bit heavier being a convertible now, and this should help out. They are off a 2012 300 SRT8. Was told they are a direct bolt on for my 2010 Challenger. And, yes, I bought new larger offset wheels a couple weeks ago to clear the calipers. Any advice, PM or otherwise, appreciated.
I'd double check the part numbers of the knuckles - 2012 SRT vs 2010 SRT - only because there was a suspension geometry change in 2011 with the new 392. Or perhaps ask for '08-10 SRT knuckles to alleviate any potential compatibility issue (Cleveland PAP is usually cool like that).

On a scale of 1-5 (1 being an oil change and 5 opening the engine or trans) this is probably a 3. The rear knuckle is tedious and the spring link attaches to it with a pressed-metal-sleeved bushing. Make sure you have External Torx sockets and don't damage those ABS tone rings when you remove the axles!
 

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AOK. Thanks. I will email them today and see if they have the older knuckles available.
 

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2016 Challenger 5.7 6-speed
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Discussion Starter #19
Oh almost forgot about that sleeve bushing on the rear knuckles. When reinstalling those you have to tap or press the bushing back into the knuckle. I used a socket and extension and tapped it back in without damaging the knuckle or sleeve.

The how to floating around explains it well. Once you have the knuckle off. You see how the sleeve has to be pressed back in 1/4 of an inch to sit flush with the knuckle.
 
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