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I know this has probably been touched on several times in past but I wanted to get everyone’s take on it. I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2018 392 Challenger not sure if it’ll be T/A or ScatPack/Shaker. I know I can negotiate a good price on what’s on the dealers lot here in the Phoenix area but I also want the option of building how I want . Is there still room for negotiation on price when you build vs buy off current inventory. Any information is appreciated thanks in advance!
 

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I know this has probably been touched on several times in past but I wanted to get everyone’s take on it. I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2018 392 Challenger not sure if it’ll be T/A or ScatPack/Shaker. I know I can negotiate a good price on what’s on the dealers lot here in the Phoenix area but I also want the option of building how I want . Is there still room for negotiation on price when you build vs buy off current inventory. Any information is appreciated thanks in advance!
Go in feigning interest on something on the lot that's similar to what you want, once you're done negotiating and it looks like you're about to buy, tell them you REALLY wanted an additional option or different color, and ask if you can build it instead. If they go back on their discounts then just walk away.

Some dealers get anal about custom orders and will tell you that you can only pay MSRP (bullshit).

You can also get in contact with Luke here from @stevewhiteparts if your local dealers aren't being very cooperative.
 

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You should be able to end up with a similar deal whether you order or buy what's available. So, it kind of comes down to (a) how important is it to get exactly what you want versus (b) how quick do you want your car --- with a possible compromise or two. The exception is if you find a car that's been on the lot a LONG time and the dealer is finally motivated to unload it. And that tends to only happen at the end of a month when a dealer is just a deal or two short of hitting a manufacturer incentive.

Dodge's Inventory search function on their website should let you determine if the car you would build has already been built and sitting on a lot within a reasonable distance.

I've done both ... Back in '13 my wife wanted her new Charger R/T to have a certain set of options so we ordered one and it turned out great. In late-December of '16 we needed an SUV fairly quickly so I searched the Dodge site and found a '17 Durango R/T that happened to be at my preferred dealer.
 

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You should be able to end up with a similar deal whether you order or buy what's available.
Agree. When I ordered my 14 they had almost the same car but 13 at a great price and I told salesman I wanted the same deal, ended up paying about $500 more for an ordered 14 than a 13 that had been on the lot a couple months. Yes I was happy with that and 35 days later I had my car.



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Comes down to what you're exacting looking for. If you hit the right car sitting on the lot for a while that may be your best price but is it the car you really want? Buying new still offers decent discounts as it is very common to get 1% over invoice pricing. I always prefer to buy new as I enjoy the process and tracking (not last time, way too long). Plus I love having my name printed on the window sticker and keeping all the build paperwork. Plus no one is drilling hole into the front bumper of my car. Best of luck can't go wrong with your choices as I love the 392, until that beautiful 426 comes out (hopefully next year).
 

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Depends on how long the car has been sitting on the lot. Costs the dealer out of pocket to sit on the lot so usually are more motivated to move that one.
 

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Depends on how long the car has been sitting on the lot. Costs the dealer out of pocket to sit on the lot so usually are more motivated to move that one.
Hence why you approach the salesman without revealing your intent.

They're interested in making a sale more than anything, so buy what you want not what they want to offload on you.
 

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The ordered car is presold and they have nothing invested in it and will be gone within one to 2 days after arrival.
The car sitting there is costing them monthly on a floor plan so they may want to unload it but doesn’t mean you’d do far better on it. Mine was ordered my way at a very attractive price and dealer had no problem doing it. I told them obviously you want to sell a car off the lot right then but that wasn’t what I want to do.
Go in and speak to them, the worst is you say thank you for your time, I’ll go look elsewhere, they don’t want you walking out either, good luck.
 

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I know this has probably been touched on several times in past but I wanted to get everyone’s take on it. I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a 2018 392 Challenger not sure if it’ll be T/A or ScatPack/Shaker. I know I can negotiate a good price on what’s on the dealers lot here in the Phoenix area but I also want the option of building how I want . Is there still room for negotiation on price when you build vs buy off current inventory. Any information is appreciated thanks in advance!
Had our 2018 SRT 392 built with our options could not be happier.:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A lot of great advice! Thanks to all that took the time to respond I’ll keep everyone posted on how my search plays out. I’m strongly considering that B5 blue that looks like it’s now available so we shall see.
 

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Gotta say, nothing like the excitement and anticipation of ordering exactly what you want and the slow burn until it gets in!

That said, if you can save a few bucks and they can put it in your hands now that would trump it.
 

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I lucked out and got the car just the way I wanted it, but didn't order it. It was listed on the dealers website, but hadn't yet arrived. I bought it a couple of days after it arrived, had 12 miles on it. A Guy
 

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Yes you can negotiate on an ordered car. The rebates available are the same ones for the lot cars as your ordered car. Just remember rebates typically are at the time of delivery on an ordered car and not when you ordered. Nobody should ever pay over invoice, in fact invoice is a starting point. Reality is take msrp and multiply by 3%, get that number. Than get the invoice price then subtract that 3% number from invoice, you should pay somewhere between invoice and minus that 3%, plus tax and tags. Lot cars can have better deals though as there may be more hidden rebates from factory for the dealer to use to get rid of inventory, or the dealer may just want to clear it.


With that said I usually order new cars and don't take them off the lot. In my mind I'm spending 40-50k I'm getting exactly what I want. I'm not going to settle for not getting something or have to pay for things I don't want. So far when Ive went to bought the dealers have never had the exact build I was looking for.
 

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You always shop for a car like you don't need a car. Do some shopping around, see how much dealers are willing to budge without you putting much pressure on them, do some research on taxes, etc. then set an OUT THE DOOR price for yourself and stick to it. When you negotiate don't let them walk all over you, but be reasonable yourself...and by that I mean don't be rude or pretend their lives are dependant on this one sale. Come across as they don't need to "sell you on the car", so there's no extra work involved on their part. So if they want to make a quick and easy sale, your interested, but you have your own set of terms.

I ordered my '12 SRT exactly how I wanted for the price I wanted to pay...white, no stripes, stick shift, and no options whatsoever.
 

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Depends on how long the car has been sitting on the lot. Costs the dealer out of pocket to sit on the lot so usually are more motivated to move that one.
thats correct
Luke
 

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we have a very simple pricing structure, especially on special orders,

dealer invoice minus half of the hold back, does not get better then that.......

Luke
 

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Since I buy cars on impulse, I could not wait for the car to be built. I know what I am looking for before I arrive at the Dealership. Sometimes I call ahead and tell them what I am looking for and if they have one get it ready for a test drive. I go for a spin in, then come back and sign the paperwork. I tell them what kind of payment I want to make and they get me either a low rate or a forever loan (LOL) and the deal is, I leave with the car that day or I am not buying one. It helps speed things up because I just pay sticker. But, when I walk on the lot all the salesmen and the owner know me by name. No I am not made of money, I could haggle over a Scat or SRT and leave and have them call me back or I could jump in a new R/T and drive it home now.
 

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and make sure you read the fine print....nearly every dealer will add on, doc fees, sometime as much as 995.00, and lots of hidden fees, like nitrogen, etc

with us the price is the price, no doc fees ever, no weird add on fees of any sort, the price is the price
Luke
 

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and of course all the rebates and promotions that applies
Luke

and beware of the rebates, a dealer not far from us advertised stupid low pricing which includes every possible rebates, the catch, 995.00 doc fees and oh, most of the rebates you don't qualify for and now the price jumps significantly......

had a conversation back and forth with a lady some time back on a wide body, gave her our price and she stated that we where over 1k more expensive, I recommended she get a written buyer's order from the dealer she was shopping us against.....then compare the price, she did and we sold her the vehicle.....
 
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