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Question: How are you going to do a burnout with Traction Control on?
 

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I hate to do this but I am going to assume that the OP has discovered that even with the computer nanny activated, there are times when the car will overpower the settings and still do a small spin. This happens on my SP from time to time. Personally this makes me smile but I digress.

OP, you're driving a machine and any engineer, including me, will tell you that machines break even if operated within spec. If you want odds of them breaking, safe money says that the chances are low with the nanny system turned on.

All of that said, if you turn off traction control, these cars are notorious for wheel hop and given the right conditions you're going to be in the drive train parts market quickly.
 

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What most likely happens with burnouts is you can get nasty wheel hop which will stress the pinion and cause the diff to whine. Other than that I would not sweat it.
 

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I have only ever had axle hop on the drag strip due to the high-traction surface. On the street mine just spins until it hooks at some point...

With the traction control on the car will not let you do a burnout, it will just build a little power and bog - I accidently tried one to do it one time ;) However with the traction control on, I can punch it and spin the tires a little as I take off...
 

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I hear of wheel hop quite frequently but for me, I never have it. Tires just break loose and spin.
 

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"Question: Can burn-outs damage your axles or other components while having traction control on?"


Others have posted that it may not be possible to do a "burnout" with traction control on. This limits the amount of wheel spin and stop any burnout before it even happens.


But assuming a burnout can occur, and it can I'm sure if the driver knows what he's doing.


Every time the car is driven away from a stop stresses the rear axles and the diff gears. The level of stress though is well within acceptable limits, design limits.



A burn out requires a sudden application of power/torque that overcomes the tires' grip and causes them to spin.


This stresses the axles and diff gears even more than they are stressed during a normal take off.


The axles are pretty strong as are the gears. An out right failure is unlikely, and if it happened probably would be due to an inclusion in the metal of the axle shaft or metal of one of the gears or other components in the diff that resulted in a stress point and subsequent fracture.


The added stress also puts a bigger load upon the gear lube. Over time even if there is no component failure there can be increased wear. As someone mentioned this can lead to a noisier diff, at least, and probably if done often enough lead to premature failure of most likely the diff due to the extra wear and tear.



In short there is a cost to burnouts. Ignoring the shortened tire life there is a cost to the drive train. The rear diff will almost certainly have a shorter service life and this life can include more noise, leaking seals,



If you intend to keep the car for a long time budget for a new diff, new axles (the splines will likely take a beating even if the axle shaft itself remains intact), and in general just more items that suffer from wear and tear. If a manual transmission the clutch but also the innards of the transmission. Like the diff a burnout subjects the transmission to higher loads, more stress. The transmission can manifest more noise, or more serious signs of trouble, could possibly even suffer sudden catastrophic failure.

An automatic acts to cushion the impact of a burnout some but remember its gear sets are not as massive as those in the manual transmission so it is all pretty much relative.




If you insist on continuing to do burnouts I would suggest you follow a more aggressive fluid service schedule for both the engine, transmission, and diff. Short of stopping the burnouts this is all you can do to try to hold off the inevitable wear and tear that results.




If you do not plan on keeping the car for very long the effects of the burnouts becomes someone else's problem.
 

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On a '13 R/T with the A8 Auto, you should have the 3.06 gear set. To determine whether or not you have a posi, you'll have to physically look at the center section.



If it's smooth, you have a Mettingen, 215mm differential. They say it has an anti-spin and it will engage both axles...but only up to 25 MPH...sometimes (sorry for the huge pic)









If it has pronounced cooling fins, you have a Getrag 226mm differential. This one has a really good posi in it and will keep both axles engaged for as long as you are spinning.






Now, to do burnouts at the touch of a button, purchase and install a Tranzformer from Z Automotive. Gen 1 for the 11-14s I believe, but you'll need to talk to their tech sales people. It taps into the transmission ECU's wiring harness and overrides several "programed-in" features.It also allows you to set your shift firmness, shift points in AutoStick, and has a burnout mode and launch feature. It also allows you to override the adaptive feature in the trans. Good bang for the buck and not to expensive either.
 

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Doing burnouts will only damage your wallet... :grin2:
 

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As it turns out, fun generally costs money.
For example, my brother and I decided it would be fun to see how long we could hang on to the doors of my 340 Cuda while wetting the tires and dumping the clutch. About the the fifth time we grenaded the clutch and after a tow home we were replacing the clutch and flywheel.

But, it was worth it! that was in 1978???
 

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Same for me. I've yet to experience wheel hop? Drop the clutch in 1st or 2nd and its nothing but a smoke show...and I love it.
Are you on stock brand tires? When my RT was NA it would hop every once in a while but now with FI it generally just spins. My firestone 245s would spin with easy...those had the worst traction. When I upgraded to 245 nittos (420), there were occasions where I would just get into hop...usually after the tires got nice an sticky with the linelock and launched hard during a 30 mph roll. Even the 315 nittos (555) are easy to spin in 2nd in these sub 50F temperatures but I am expecting that to change once the weather gets warmer.
 

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Are you on stock brand tires? When my RT was NA it would hop every once in a while but now with FI it generally just spins. My firestone 245s would spin with easy...those had the worst traction. When I upgraded to 245 nittos (420), there were occasions where I would just get into hop...usually after the tires got nice an sticky with the linelock and launched hard during a 30 mph roll. Even the 315 nittos (555) are easy to spin in 2nd in these sub 50F temperatures but I am expecting that to change once the weather gets warmer.
Stock Goodyear eagle 245s

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