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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Do you guys wish this car had a hand-brake? Or do you guys prefer the foot brake pedal?

Also... how would you guys do this on a manual. Do you guys use a line locker? Or just e brake down and let the power break loose?

1. E-brake
2. Disengage Clutch
3. Gas (Rev high)
4. Engage Clutch
5. Break (incase you need to control the burnout)?
 

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most the time pop the clutch and go.. but for big burnouts..

push clutch in
rev motor
drop clutch
proceed to burn out and slide ur foot over to the brake..


line locks are for pussys..lol.. :werd:
 

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Dump the clutch at 4000 rpm. While spinning, slowly put your left foot on the brake.

Make sure that you have the ESP in either 50% mode, or full off.

Easy breezy burn them all day. Check on cost for replacements though. Those skins cost. Brakes pads can get into the $100+ area as well.

Yes, I would've preferred a hand brake, but not a huge deal. Use to it now.
 

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Hand brakes are not for muscle cars. The Jeep has a handbrake and it just gets in the way of resting my right arm while driving.

I could do monster burn outs in my 1994 Buick Roadmaster with Michelin X1 tires so doing burn outs is not the reason I bought the Challenger or Jeep but to each his own! Have fun.
 

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2009 Challenger R/T
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put her in second gear heel/toe the gas and brake dump the clutch and cook your tires :browsmiley:
LINE LOCKS ARE FOR ******* :guiness:
 

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PARKING BRAKE is on the REAR wheels. Why would you want to use it for burn outs? These are not rice rockets. Use the far right pedal!!!!!

 

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I don't seem to need anything for burnouts on dry pavement other than the gas pedal???? Even with the traction control full on.. No issues :)
 

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Don't care for handbrakes. They scream rice burner IMO.

Sent from my Milestone X using AutoGuide App
 

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Rev it up, dump the clutch, and let the big dog eat.
 

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Just make sure you remove the loose in the drive-line before you release the clutch too hard. There's always a small loose in there and the torque will give a hit to all the components. Keep your heel on the brake and toes on the gas pedal. NO need to release the clutch too fast at the friction point.
 

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I just floor it! No brakes needed. Usually leave the ESP on ('cause I forget to turn it off). Mine's an auto 5.7.
 

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Well at least one person in this thread thinks the same way I do...

Brake Stands/burnouts can get EXPENSIVE. What are the tires on this thing? $200/tire? That's a lot of cash to be leaving on the ground just so you have to scrub rubber off the rear quarters. LOL
 

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Well at least one person in this thread thinks the same way I do...

Brake Stands/burnouts can get EXPENSIVE. What are the tires on this thing? $200/tire? That's a lot of cash to be leaving on the ground just so you have to scrub rubber off the rear quarters. LOL
Brake stand/burnouts give you a reason to get rid of the old Goodyear F1s and replace them with something better.
 

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My favorite way to do it is to roll slowly to a stop while applying gas and brake. No standing burnouts, just hover on the gas as you slow and the more you push the brake, push the gas. Eventually the car will come to a stop and be billowing tire smoke. To me, that's far easier on the drivetrain than clutch dumping or standing braking. I have done a standing burnout before but this method makes me feel better about it.
 

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Brake stand/burnouts give you a reason to get rid of the old Goodyear F1s and replace them with something better.
I'll do that when they get down in tread... but for right now after dropping all the coin on the car I don't really want to be replacing tires as well. =)
 

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Does everybody just stick with the factory tire sizes?
You can go wider but it's not cheap. You need to roll the fenders to add significantly wider tires and maybe even add a spacer to the wheels. I stuck with the stock size because I didn't want to mess with any of that but I put significantly stickier tires on it.
 
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