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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,

New to the forum but wanted to start off running out the gate. I came in contact with 3 dealers through USAA (Military credit union) and the prices quoted for me are pretty good. Well after much debating, resaerch and going to 5 different dealers in the OC/Los Angeles area, I found a 2010 R/T from Cerritos Dodge. The sticker price is 33,330 with leather, 20inch chrome clad wheels and push start. The gentleman I was dealing with and my contact through USAA quoted me 29,000ish without tax and license. I was told by him that the 2010 models dont qualify for the $1000 rebate but from looking around I do rate the $500 dollar military discount. I am just wondering if this was a good deal or if you gents think i can haggle lower. He also said to shave off some cost he was going to take off the chrome clad rims and replace with factory ones but keep the 20'. Please if you have any advice let me know. Thanks all.

-Lucas
 

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yeah i wanted to keep the chrome clad wheels but the dealer said to keep the price down to that price that's what he might have to do......is there a 3K rebate??? let me know if there is and ill def bring it up because i want to save as much as i can on the car.
 

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They are offering you only about 10% off msrp sticker? My opinion is you could get that price on a 2011. With some haggling, and ammo (printouts from other dealers), you should be able to get the car for at least 15-20% off sticker in today's climate. They are selling brand new 2010 SRT8's in Costa Mesa for $32K. Those are stickering at $45K plus. SRT8's are a bit of a different story, but still. Chrysler is offering the dealers huge incentives right now on the 2010's because after all, it's April 2011. They won't tell you that, but check it out. Don't be shy from driving a couple hundred miles to buy if you can save a thousand or two and make sure the dealer you're doing business with knows that (ammo). Try Dodge's website and do a new 2010 inventory search for what you want, color and all. You may be surprised at how many 2010's are still on the lots in some places. Then call around, make sure they know you are ready to buy. Lots of guys are buying out of state and having their cars trucked in to get the price, color and stuff they want. Costco price, internet price, employee pricing etc. is all smoke and mirrors. My experience is that I can usually beat it, just have to be willing to walk away. PM me if you want, maybe I can help.
 

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Unless you have a little extra money to burn, and you may not want to quibble over $1K or $2K, and unless only one color will satisfy you, do a little more research and drive a little harder bargain!!! There is a lot I don't know so you have to put pieces of the puzzle together, but discounts on the more expensive cars are much higher and you need to work this through your thought process. On the east coast, 2010 SRTS seem to be $8K to $10k off. 2010 R/Ts are about $7k to $9K off if you work at it. BUT, the 2010 R/Ts I mention are $40K sticker price. I bought mine recently for $30K and it was $9K off sticker and lots of features. DO NOT let him take the Chrome Clads back off unless the price goes lower. Besides being a nice stock feature, they are $1,350 on the sticker price. Of course he'll take them back if you let him.

The lower sticker 2010 R/Ts on the east coast seemed to mostly disappear during a break I took on shopping between january and March, so unfortunately I do not know what discounts those got. Probably not the full $7K to $9K that the $40K R/T stickers got. But do NOT let him talk just Dodge rebate. My dealer moved right beyond that. He wanted the cars out, and he made it happen. They still get to sell the car and still make money if you drive a harder bargain, so you still have a good deal between you, but he should be a little lower first. Is it a 6 speed? Sounds like not, but that gets more off. Keep in mind like was mentioned, the 2011s are a lower sticker and there are a lot on the lots with reasonable stickers, so to get the 2010, you need a price that blows your mind. If you only will accept on ecolor or one package of features, then you don't want to let the perfect car get away while fussing over $500 or $1000. If you are flexible, you should get that down between $27K and $28k in my opinion. But you need to study what is selling and leaving the lots. You probably cannot get the same percentage off as the $40K R/Ts and the SRTs because those were priced out of the entry market. It is possible that all the lower sticker priced 2010 R/Ts are going at that weaker percentage off that you are mentioning - if you find that to be true, then I may be wrong and you may want to jump. But be sure you know that first. Plus, you can still get 2011s in that price range. If you are like me and buy the 2010, remember, it is essentially already an "old model car" and lower book value automatically, so the dealer needs to credit the price with that. The dealer DEFINITELY can give you some room beyond Dodge rebate on a 2010. If he won't then tell him you will check a few other dealers to see if they will.

If he takes the wheels, I would not budge at any price above $28K. You should check around on ebay. There are a few $2011s below $30K with no features. If he takes the wheels, you may not get much more than the leather seats.

By the way, if you have access to the window sticker to that car online, post the link here and we can look at it to give advice.
 

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Let me put it a few more ways - especially if you are in the service, I want you to get a heck of a deal just as a fellow car enthusiast. There is a clothing store here in my area that advertises, "An educated consumer is our best customer". Let the guy sell you a car, but get your money's worth.

I got a better deal than I have heard elsewhere, but here is what I got at just over $30K on a 2010 R/T a few weeks ago: DWB paint, Package 27 J (leather, heated seats and mirrors, etc.), Sound group II, 6 speed, sunroof, hood to fender stripes, Media Center CD.DVD.MP3.HDD.Nav, 20inch chrome clad wheels, and the destination charge. My destination charge was $750, in case yours is more. If you can't get him lower than $29K, then you should get a loaded car and pay $1K or $2K more.

While I have not seen other deals like mine, I have seen $40K to $41k sticker prices advertised for $33K. You may not want the options, but why is your dealer only $1K less than a loaded car.

Check out the best deals on ebay, or find the best dealers across the country, to compare prices. To be fare to the dealers, some locations just cannot beat the best priced dealers, but they should be able to get reasonably close in any case.
 

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I looked at the car listing, and when you click to another car, it shows their internet price offer on yours as $26, 997. And that is the listing WITH the Chrome Clads. That is a decent price to get a new 2010 with a few nice features. How does he get the price back up to $29K? I couldn't find the window sticker, but it shows the options. Is he adding the desitination charge back on? What is that amount in California? I would start at the $26, 997 price and try to push a bit lower.

On financing, bargain hard to see what you can get. They wanted me to take 5.9% on the price they gave me. I stopped asking on the price, but said I would need a lower rate to take my pen out and sign. I got 4.9%. Not saying I couldn't get lower, but that was pretty good for getting the $9K off. Just to be sure, ask what price the car would be for 0% financing, but DO NOT get 0% unless you are 100% sure you will keep the car the entire life of the loan. Otherwise, go for a rate under 5% and the max price reduction you can get.

I hope he has a good reason that $26, 997 price got up to $29K. I'm not aware of the situation on the west coast, so I'm not saying I know better. Whether that $26,997 price should include freight is something a west coast guy is going to have to tell you. The $26,997 is getting decent. Just by the way I am myself, you are getting close to a fair price for a 2010, but see if he'll knock off another few hundred, give you some credit for the shop or parts dept (like get a car cover, functional hood scoops and hood struts, or something), or get an amazing interest rate. FInd out very specifically why you are back up to $29K when it is listed at $27K online. By the way, are you sure it has leather? Someone else may know if that comes in the 28F package, but I don't see it listed seperately.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I am sure it has leather, the dealer put in leather to try and sell it since it is an 2010, and is there anyway you can message me or post the link to where you found that listing price?
 

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What I did was clicked on your link above, and I got this car:

http://www.cerritosdodge.com/new/Dodge/2010-Dodge-Challenger-e95d53f77f00000100aeb45ac24fe8e0.htm

Stone white, fender R/T stripes. $33,330 MSRP

Then I clicked on a car in that column of cars on the right (just below the map). It goes to a different car, but then look at that list again when the new car page comes up, and the white 2010 goes into that listing of multiple cars on the right. That list seems to have their better prices right in it, I guess the internet price. Note that they have a Tungsten 2011 in there right at $30,000 )at that offered price in the list, with a MSRP at $33,335.
 

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Geez, on that second car, that guy is wheeling and dealing. I never shopped the 2011 cars, but that seems great. The 2011 cars are cheaper than the 2010 remember. That 2nd car is very similar to my 2010 package, except I got sunroof. The window sticker of that second car is posted right online. So that car would have been about $38K msrp on a 2010. My car and this one both have a $1K transmission charge, but in 2010 it was pay extra for the manual, on 2011 it is pay more for the auto. Anyway, that is a big markdown for a 2011 in my book, and lots of features. You need to decide if you want the NAV etc. But at the very least, if you ultimately want a lower price and less features, definitely show that 2nd car to the salesman on the first one. He is selling a 2010, so he needs to give you a much better price than a loaded 2011 (like a minimum of $4k less, or $27K).

I know I'm blabbing a lot, but I love these cars, I know others do too, and money is hard to come by these days, with many other priorities in life. I'm hoping to help some folks based on what I learned. I shopped and studied prices for 1 full year before I bought, because I was right up against the limit of anything I could justify for my family.

By the way, I have a great sound system in my caliber, and I highly recommend the upgraded stock sound system, if you can get that 2nd car. I never want to go back to a standard system now that I know what a good one is like, and having it factory installed removes a ton of potential problems.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wow, honestly when i test drove the 2nd challenger it was amazing, it had all teh features i could ever want. But when i was at the dealer he wanted that price with the trade of my car and my 1500 dollar rebates (1000 for 11' and 500 military). So it was a bit rich for my blood. I wanted to see if i could get that vehicle for 27-29 out the door with my trade. What do you think i could do to lower the price of that second on which is already pretty low as is. Also i do intended to show that car to the 1st salesman
 

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Ok, I looked online for regional sales promotion differences. I see something from the first dealer saying trade-in assistance. It's apparently not the price they give for your car, but assistance on top of what you trade. But apparently they are encouraging a trade. I did not trade anything in, and frankly, they only asked me once, and made no issue of it (I'm on the east coast). I didn't check the fine print on the second dealer, but maybe they factored in the same. Both dealers may have fine print. Do you know the value of your trade? Be confident of that rough value.

The reason I didn't buy the 2010 for a year was that my dealer would not budge much last year. So you may have difficulty getting him to move much more on the 2011, with a stabilized economy, and so new in the year. Time is on his side for that one, and my experience was that I could not get any significant movement below what Chrysler was advertising. But you can always bargain on interest rates (which is a lot of money over time). Definitely use the info on the 2nd car when talking to the salesman on the first. One thing I should caution - 2010s are out there, but everyone that sells reduces the pool of 2010, so if he plays all his cards for you and explains his promotions, I can't advise you to play so tough that you lose the car.

Regional sales techniques are interesting. For example, where my parents live, they advertise low mileage late model cars more often than new cars on the newspaper sales page. I sometimes get impressed by the prices, then read the fine print and see they are actually demonstrators, lease returns, or used.

Ask him to explain that trade-in assistance cash, and ask what he is actually paying for your trade-in.
 

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ok, second dealer mentions that trade-in assistance cash also. They also both mention loyalty rebate, where you bring in a certificate. I'm mopar loyal and have a few cars in the family, so I always get the various forms of that. If you did not get something in the mail, ask if they are negotiable on that. Any rules they can tweak to get you in the car, you should push them to do so. If it is a dealer incentive, I have found they can be flexible. I have had less luck when it was a nationwide Chrysler incentive. back to the trade-in, I read that to say they will give you $1000 bonus, plus your trade's value.
 

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Here is the link and ill def look into it. I really wanted to see if i could it it out the door for 31800 at the most.

2010 Dodge Challenger R/T For Sale | Cerritos CA

Let me know if you find out anything else beyond me, this is my first finance for a vehicle, i bought my current one with cash.
Click on the red disclosure button on the right next to the price. It will show all of the "rebates" that are included in the price. Most of the rebates no-one will qualify for. I have a 2011 RT Classic on order. There is a $1000 rebate plus your military rebate and the dealer should offer the car at invoice (about $2K under MSRP, so you should pay about $3,500 under MSRP

check out Dodge Incentives and Rebates to see all of the incentives for 2010 and 2011 dodges.

According to the site, dodge is giving dealers $3000 dealer cash on the 2010 RTs and an extra $1500 on the manual cars. Dealer cash is different than rebates as Dodge gives it directly to the car dealer and not the consumer. If the consumer does not know about it then the dealer will keep it. There is also 0% financing up to 60 months but it cannot be combined with dealer cash.

I did the 2010 vs 2011 decision also. What I found is that the 2011s are priced much lower (especially if you order a stick). I ordered at stick and the 2011 was $4K less than the 2010. $3000 dealer cash vs $4K lower price plus the $1K rebate + 1.9% financing sealed the deal.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your service.
 
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