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Hello All!! Been shopping and lurking on the site for a few weeks. Have my search narrowed down to two cars: A brand new 16' SRT or a brand new 18' T/A 392 with the leather package. The SRT would end up being a few thousand less. I really want an SRT, but buying a "new" car that is 2 years old is kinda bothering me and the 18' SRT is a little more than I would like to spend. I'm not a big fan of the graphics on the T/A but I really like the way it is equipped...Thanks in advance for any help and I look forward to some opinions..
 

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I understand about a little more than you want to spend, I just bought me a 2015 SRT 392 fully loaded, sticker price was 51k and it was a one owner. I really wanted a scat pack since I was going to race it, but the price of the SRT 392 was well below what I thought I was going to spend, the one owner needed to sale so i got the SRT 392 for 29k even and drove 3 hours one way to get it. Well below book value and that's what really made the decision for more. So i got a lot of car for the money.

So if you have two cars you like, then go with the one that puts you in a better financial position.

I could have gotten a scat pack, but I would have paid more and closer to the book value. I'm happy with the SRT 392, I got a great deal on it.
 

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Thought I would add a few pics to inspire you.
 

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Looking at a 2008 SRT myself. It has 3900 miles so it's a new car. 29k seems like a lot and on worried about how much it sat... I currently have a 2013 RT Classic. Love it but more horsepower is intriguing. I'd still buy what hurts the wallet less.
 

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Too much money for a 2008. Low mileage or not, it is a 10 year old car and not a collector’s item.
Also you will be somewhat disappointed with the horsepower. You will not see the difference unless you are racing and for that matter it had better be a 1/4 mike because in an 1/8th it is pretty much a drivers race because the horsepower in the 6.1 is way up in the rpm range.

I am not knocking the 6.1. I loved the car and it was bullet proof with about 150 passes on it before I moved to a 392. You should be able to find a 392 in good condition for $29,000 and you will notice the difference right away.
 

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Hello All!! Been shopping and lurking on the site for a few weeks. Have my search narrowed down to two cars: A brand new 16' SRT or a brand new 18' T/A 392 with the leather package. The SRT would end up being a few thousand less. I really want an SRT, but buying a "new" car that is 2 years old is kinda bothering me and the 18' SRT is a little more than I would like to spend. I'm not a big fan of the graphics on the T/A but I really like the way it is equipped...Thanks in advance for any help and I look forward to some opinions..


Here is one thing I would make sure about, is it a new car? It in fact might be a new car, but will be sold as a new car? Usually so many miles on the clock or age can make the thing used. I would also ensure you get the factory warranty for 3/36k, 5/60k, from the day you purchase and not some aftermarket warranty they sell you on.


Other than that you are really looking at the same car mechanically and visually. I guess for me it would be about what I like best and then what was in my budget. 2 year old car would concern me on price, the second I bought it regardless of how many miles are on it and what story I try to tell somebody, it would still be a used two year old car the next day after purchase. With that being said price would have to be somewhat equal to that of a used car that was two years old.
 

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You should look up the value of a 2016, I know I have seen used ones for as low as 33k with less than 20k miles on them, if the 16 is really being sold as brand new, you still should not even come close to sticker price. you should be able to get as cheap as a slightly used 2016. Or just go find a nice used 2016 that someone else already took the hit on it when bought new and save 10-15 thousand dollars. The deal I would have with a 2016 that is new old stock, I want to make sure I'm getting a damn good deal on it. The moment you buy it- that car is only worth what the blue books says it's worth right now. That is the price you should be getting the car for or lower, because once you sign the note if you paid more for it then blue book your upside down.
 

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You should look up the value of a 2016, I know I have seen used ones for as low as 33k with less than 20k miles on them, if the 16 is really being sold as brand new, you still should not even come close to sticker price. you should be able to get as cheap as a slightly used 2016. Or just go find a nice used 2016 that someone else already took the hit on it when bought new and save 10-15 thousand dollars. The deal I would have with a 2016 that is new old stock, I want to make sure I'm getting a damn good deal on it. The moment you buy it- that car is only worth what the blue books says it's worth right now. That is the price you should be getting the car for or lower, because once you sign the note if you paid more for it then blue book your upside down.


Pretty much what I said. Because tomorrow it will be valued at what a two year old car is. With that said if its being sold new and sold with full factory warranty, that New old stock is still worth more than a two year old car used, book value might not reflect that though. If it were me Id willing to pay a little more than what current used was worth but not much. I got 10% off new when I ordered I wouldn't even think about it unless this car was discounted by 15-20%.
 

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it would me!
Get the SRT. They are paying your depreciation and you are getting a NEW car. And did you ponder how many people don't like their new panasonic radios compared to the HK used in 2016???? Hmmm. Just my $.02 Good luck and show us a pic of that SRT when you get it. Or the T/A. I'd prefer not to have all that matte paint personally. But if you would, I'd love to look!


Mistake here. Didn't mean to quote myself.
 

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Get the SRT. And did you ponder how many people don't like their new panasonic radios compared to the HK used in 2016????

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I was about to say the same thing about the 2017 and up radios. That would sway me some. Plus, only the hood is painted on a T/A. The roof and trunk are wrapped in vinyl. How long will that look good if this car gets driven regularly?
 

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I was about to say the same thing about the 2017 and up radios. That would sway me some. Plus, only the hood is painted on a T/A. The roof and trunk are wrapped in vinyl. How long will that look good if this car gets driven regularly?
I was glad I got my 16 in 2017. What would have made it coooooler is if I got it now for MORE off! It comes loaded!
What color did we say again???
 

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Don't know if this has been mentioned but before you buy a new car that has been around for a while be very sure you check it out for any accident damage repair.

Also, ask about when the warranty clock was started. Often a dealer will report a new car as sold to the factory (sometimes referred to as "punching" the car), to improve the dealer's sales numbers to help it keep in the factory's good graces. There is nothing really wrong with this but it does start the car's warranty clock ticking. In the case of the car you are considering the car could have a 1 possibly even 2 years of warranty time gone.

Last but not least Dodge calls for oil to be changed every so many miles or after so many months. It is unlikely the new car has had its oil changed since it landed on the dealer's lot. You should negotiate as part of the purchase one or more free oil changes. One before you take the car off the lot, then one say 500 or 1000 miles later (I lean towards the lower miles) and then one at the end of "break in".
 

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Don't know if this has been mentioned but before you buy a new car that has been around for a while be very sure you check it out for any accident damage repair.

Also, ask about when the warranty clock was started. Often a dealer will report a new car as sold to the factory (sometimes referred to as "punching" the car), to improve the dealer's sales numbers to help it keep in the factory's good graces. There is nothing really wrong with this but it does start the car's warranty clock ticking. In the case of the car you are considering the car could have a 1 possibly even 2 years of warranty time gone.

Last but not least Dodge calls for oil to be changed every so many miles or after so many months. It is unlikely the new car has had its oil changed since it landed on the dealer's lot. You should negotiate as part of the purchase one or more free oil changes. One before you take the car off the lot, then one say 500 or 1000 miles later (I lean towards the lower miles) and then one at the end of "break in".
Excellent points!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You guys are AWESOME!! Thanks for all the great advice. I'm going to pull the trigger on the 16' SRT. $14,000 under msrp, being sold as a new car, with the factory warranty starting the day I sign the papers. It's Ivory White Tri-Coat. The dealer has 2 if anybody else is looking.. I will post pictures asap when I get it. :rocker:
 

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You still get 4 free oil changes on a 2016 car. With full synthetic that's worth around $350-$400. Dodge dropped that with the '17+ models. Oil aside, I'd get the New '16 for sure.
 
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