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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I've been a Challenger fan for a long time and I've finally decided to do something about it... I've located at 2016 R/T Shaker 6M with around 36K on it. Is there anything I should be on the look out for? 36K isn't much on a car, but the dealership is about 1.5 hours from my house and I want to make the most out of my visit.

Thanks in advance!
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Have you checked to see what kind of service history (if any) has been recorded for it?

If not, download and install the myCarFax app and add that Challenger to your garage by its VIN. Then check History tab for services previously done (and reported).

You may not get much info, or you could get a bunch. Either way it’s free, so why not?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you checked to see what kind of service history (if any) has been recorded for it?

If not, download and install the myCarFax app and add that Challenger to your garage by its VIN. Then check History tab for services previously done (and reported).

You may not get much info, or you could get a bunch. Either way it’s free, so why not?
Great idea! Thanks!
 

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Another good idea is to have a trusted mechanic take a look at it.

With some dealers trying to make a deal during covid10, you might be able to get a brand new one or an 18/19 for around the same price?
 

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Another good idea is to have a trusted mechanic take a look at it.

With some dealers trying to make a deal during covid10, you might be able to get a brand new one or an 18/19 for around the same price?
Definitely! My only problem is that the dealership is about 1.5 hours from my house. I don't know anyone in the area.

I've seen some decent deals on 2020s, but they're still more than what I want to spend. There are slim pickings in the Boston area. Using cars.com and other websites, I found 8 R/Ts that are 2015 or newer with a manual transmission within a 100 miles radius.
 

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Welcome to Challengertalk ;)

A Guy
 

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three things:
look under and around the front / rear fascias - look for paint overspray or missing push pin fasteners / rivets around the wheel wheel (that's a sign if there was collision repair and the quality / thoroughness of repairs)
differential is limited slip on R/T M6 - it should be quiet, no whining / whirring noises
check the water pump pulley. with the engine off, grasp the pulley. It should not move in/out, up/down or side to side.
-any movement is a sign the bearing is worn and pump should be replaced. It may or may not be leaking.

clutch take up. It should be smooth and if it takes up just off the floor, it may have high wear. This is dependent on driving habits of the former owner
make sure you get both fobs and they both work (remote for doors & trunk and push button start). Otherwise, negotiate to get replacement fobs for any missing or inoperative fobs (they aren't cheap to replace and reprogram)
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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make sure you get both fobs and they both work (remote for doors & trunk and push button start). Otherwise, negotiate to get replacement fobs for any missing or inoperative fobs (they aren't cheap to replace and reprogram)
Well now, let’s not jump to conclusions. “Cheap” is a relative term. $250 to you and me isn’t cheap, no, but to @zup28w that might be pocket change.

(But just in case $250 isn’t pocket change, then yes, make sure to get two working FOBs!)
 

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being down to just one fob and if that one quits working - they you're really up the creek.

many try to buy knock-off fobs online (or used ones) and find out they don't work right. The WIN node will only accept 8 fobs programmed to it, then it has to be replaced with a new one to program new fobs.

(this is to prevent cloning new fobs to enable theft)
 

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Hi all,

I've been a Challenger fan for a long time and I've finally decided to do something about it... I've located at 2016 R/T Shaker 6M with around 36K on it. Is there anything I should be on the look out for? 36K isn't much on a car, but the dealership is about 1.5 hours from my house and I want to make the most out of my visit.

Thanks in advance!
For a used car you should be on the look out for everything/anything.

Maybe you will find the following of some help...
--------------------------------------------------------

Used Dodge Challenger check out:

My general advice is to visit the used car cold, open the hood and check the oil level, leaving the hood open. Give the other vital fluid levels a visual check at least to ensure none are low. If vital fluids are low this could be a warning flag.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

If available, call up the Performance Pages app and view coolant and oil temperature and pressure and battery voltage. You want these displayed as you get first a test ride then have a test drive.

Let the engine idle and get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear. A 1mm lip around the rotor outer diameter is a sign of rotor wear close to its replacement wear.

Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching.

After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With an automatic I recommend having the driver do a k-turn with the engine/transmission cold to see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

And with the engine/transmission now up to temperature you do the k-turn to once again see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

The pre test ride/drive idle time coupled with the 15 mile test ride and then 15 mile test drive serve -- among other things -- to have the engine run nearly an hour. This gets the engine and drive train up to operating temperature.

Leaks are more active when things are warm.

Also, it gives the engine controller time to run through its readiness monitor checks. If it finds a problem it will turn on the CEL and log an error code.

(A sophisticated used car buyer will have an OBD2 code reader and after the test drive while the engine is still running using the OBD2 tool query the engine controller for any active/pending/permanent error codes, and the status of the readiness monitors. Now in some cases not all readiness monitors are set to complete. This can be due to the test ride/drive not adhering to the drive cycle most conducive to getting the engine controller through its readiness monitor test phase.)


After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention. Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Dodge dealer and get a list of services budget for various services that are due.

As I touched upon above, tires should be in good condition but if not if the tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks @Rockster ! This is very detailed. I'm actually buying from a Dodge dealership so some items won't be applicable. I like the idea of checking out the Performance Page. I also have a scanner I could bring with me to check for any codes.
 

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Thanks @Rockster ! This is very detailed. I'm actually buying from a Dodge dealership so some items won't be applicable. I like the idea of checking out the Performance Page. I also have a scanner I could bring with me to check for any codes.
Not sure what items would not be applicable just because you are buying from a dealer. Dealers do not refresh cars or really do much of anything they don't have to. In one case when I bought a used car all the dealer did was replace the tires because while they had plenty of tread left they were 6+ years old and past their replace by date.

Plugs were not changed. Oil not changed. Brake fluid not flushed/bled even though these services proved to be due. But I negotiated a lower price to make up for this.

You have to treat the car with a great deal of suspicion. A thorough used car check out if the car passes with no issues goes a long way towards helping you making the right decision.

Check for codes although if the CEL is off all you might find are pending codes -- which are not to be taken lightly -- or permanent codes -- which are codes only the engine controller can remove after so many engine warm up cycles with the error not present. Like pending codes permanent codes are not to be taken lightly. These were errors and pretty recent.

Also, check the readiness monitors are set to complete after the test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure what items would not be applicable just because you are buying from a dealer.
I was referring to:

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

Appreciate all the feedback.
 

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I was referring to:

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

Appreciate all the feedback.
It depends upon how good you are in evaluating a car. I like to think I'm pretty good but I was present a couple of times when a trade in was brought in to be evaluated or an auction car was brought in -- the dealer was short of used cars so a broker was contacted to buy some "nice" used cars. Dealers like to have cars available for sale at a variety of price points to land as many sales as possible.

The cars were brought in and the techs tasked with checking out the car. I was amazed at how quickly they could spot the car had body/paint work. They would look at the front and rear bumper covers and could tell if these had been off the car. I was told the key was noting that fasteners were missing, or the fasteners in the wrong holes, or how the bumper cover and the panels under the car were interleaved was the clue.

The techs just had the eyes for cars. Experience. Years and years of experience.

Now I admit when I bought a used 2003 Porsche 996 Turbo I did not have it checked by a tech. I was buying the car at a Porsche dealer. The car had been given a 2 year 100K mile CPO warranty. The car had just under 10K miles. This was in June 2009 so the car had covered around 1660 miles on average per year. The car was pristine. Clearly it had been loved by its first owner.

Also, I had a CarMax report -- courtesy of the dealer -- and from this knew where the car had spent its time with the previous owner. I called around to various dealers in the area and from talking to the service departments was able to learn about the car's servicing which proved to be acceptable to me.

Plus more than once after doing some online research I'd come across something and arrange to drive to the dealer -- after hours -- and with a flashlight and a mirror on a stick lay down next to the car and check for a leaking turbo seal, or rear main seal or signs of some other problem.

When the time came for me to make an attempt to buy the car I not only had a good feel for the market price of the car but that the car was worth owning. The CPO warranty was icing on the cake. But proved to be worth having as the car developed issues that no amount of pre purchase inspecting would have been able to find. One would have needed a crystal ball to know for instance the transmission selector shaft seal would develop a leak at around 30K miles and thus require a new transmission, thankfully covered by the warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
New wrinkle... I was hoping to drive up tomorrow (it's 1.5 hours away) and see/test drive the car. We're suppose to have rain throughout the day. I could ask them to bring the car inside today so I could look at it/inspect it dry. However, my test drive would be either in the rain or on wet roads... Is that a stupid idea? I don't plan on laying down rubber, but I would want to do test it under hard acceleration. Thoughts??
 

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Whatever you do, make sure everything is documented on the sales order and SIGNED by the Manager.
 

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