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Discussion Starter #1
Doing a camp swap soon, just gatherng all the tools and supplies I may need, is Miller tool 9070 worth buying, what type of assembly lube is best, I hear sprays are good. I've been reading lots of posts, I'm getting exited to do it now.
 

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Well if you are keeping the heads on I would get

19700 BACK
VALVE HOLDER

For Both 14mm and 18mm Spark Plug Threads.

Commonly used when valve springs or valve stem seals are replaced. Air pressure helps prevent the valve from falling into the combustion chamber. Comes with two-step fitting for both 14mm and 18mm threads. Heavy duty 12" flexible hose allows easy access to spark plug hole and air supply. Thread fitting to spark plug hole and other end to air supply.
Shipping Weight: 5 oz.
Package Dimensions: 4.75"w 6.25"h 1"d
Suggested Retail: $16.23
UPC Code: 083045197003
Harmonization Code: 8205599080
FOUND IN
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm doing the SRT Max cam, with recommended push rods only, they say the 6.1 springs are fine. So I've heard anyway
 

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I used the Sta-Lube / CRC moly graphite engine assembly lube - its in a large tube and is thick enough to stay on parts w/o getting runny.

You'll need to rent a harmonic balancer puller - the standard ones work fine on the Hemi engines.

You'll also need torx bits to remove the cam thrust / retainer plate.
 

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Well you should be good to go then, I did not release your motor or cam you were installing.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I will look for that lube. I have the harmonic balance puller / installer and Torx bits. So It looks like the push rod retainer from miller tools, is not all that needed, its around 100 dollars, if it is not need I will skip it. So this assembly lube, should I use some on the push rods as well, or just the cam. and how long before you changed the oil
 

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Thanks, I will look for that lube. I have the harmonic balance puller / installer and Torx bits. So It looks like the push rod retainer from miller tools, is not all that needed, its around 100 dollars, if it is not need I will skip it. So this assembly lube, should I use some on the push rods as well, or just the cam. and how long before you changed the oil
It would be a good idea to put a dab on each end of the pushrods - since it will take a minute before oil flow is fully established to the valve train (it gets oil last on these engines).

I rotated the engine a couple of times by hand to double check timing marks and then installed the pushrods / rockershafts and rotated again to make sure there was no interference. (unscrew one plug/cyl to relieve compression)

The lifters were all bled down from doing that - after re-assembling the engine (and all fluids/belts/etc) I had pulled the FI pump fuse and cranked the engine until oil pressure appeared on the EVIC screen.

You'll hear a lot of racket from the lifters until they pressurize completely and pump up to their normal mode of operation (be prepared for that).

I did a lot of hard runs (data logging for custom tune) - I had refilled the oil I had drained out for the cam swap...

Good thing I did that, as with 1,850mi the oil change system wanted an oil change - Chrysler is very conservative on oil change intervals...run it hard and it will want them sooner. (I usually see 5,500 mi intervals and some as short as 3,650 in hot weather / mountain pass drives).
 

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I've noticed some remove the oil pump and some do not. Is it necessary to remove ?
It is - you'll need to absolutely insure the timing marks are correct for the crank and camshaft - these VVT engines have zero tolerance for being off-time (valve -piston interference) - per Chrysler's tech bulletins.

The crank mark is a small dimple on the sprocket at the 6 o'clock position, and the cam will be at the 12 o'clock position - you must get the chain's marks aligned with those, rotate the engine and make sure the cam and crank still line up in their respective positions, then install the oil pump back.

Its a good idea to install the pushrods and rocker shafts and rotate the engine to make sure everything turns freely (no binding) just as a precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes. You can not see marks properly. The author of the thread I read, where the pump was left, made several boo boo's, looks like he got lucky with that one at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Started job Saturday, I noticed the black links on the chain were not on the timing spots, So when I replaced it I made sure black link was on cam at 12 o'clock, but when I was done and turned the crank around twice, the arrow on the cam was at 12 the crank was 6 and the key way was 2 o'clock and the black links were way off, What is with that. should I bother re doing ? It is like I found it lol.
 

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Started job Saturday, I noticed the black links on the chain were not on the timing spots, So when I replaced it I made sure black link was on cam at 12 o'clock, but when I was done and turned the crank around twice, the arrow on the cam was at 12 the crank was 6 and the key way was 2 o'clock and the black links were way off, What is with that. should I bother re doing ? It is like I found it lol.
That's what takes place - the important part is having the marks on the links and the sprockets lined up during assembly.

Once you rotate the engine, the marks on the chain won't line up, but check the sprocket marks to make sure there still lining up as 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. If they do, you're good to go.

The chain is longer than the older style engines w/o tensioning devices (i.e. Mopar A/B/RB engines) so the marks on chain and sprockets don't stay lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, a small error on my part makes me what to take the rockers off or alt least the last one I did. After finishing torquing I when to manually crank things over by hand. Every thing when tight al of. Suden so I stopped and remembered, darn the manual cautions not to do this for 5 minutes to let lifters bleed down, so I waited 5, and the. Started turning again, it was going well, then I heard a little crack noise. what the heck was that. I inspected all over and continued, hand cranked 6 to 8 times and never heard anything. could that have been a rod that had not seated correctly. Possible not waiting for those lifters to bleed down ?
 

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So, a small error on my part makes me what to take the rockers off or alt least the last one I did. After finishing torquing I when to manually crank things over by hand. Every thing when tight al of. Suden so I stopped and remembered, darn the manual cautions not to do this for 5 minutes to let lifters bleed down, so I waited 5, and the. Started turning again, it was going well, then I heard a little crack noise. what the heck was that. I inspected all over and continued, hand cranked 6 to 8 times and never heard anything. could that have been a rod that had not seated correctly. Possible not waiting for those lifters to bleed down ?
It might have been a pushrod that wasn't seated fully into the lifter or on the rocker?
It is a little tricky since you have to to this by feel (lifter end) and when installing the rocker shaft, trying to get the ends inserted, hold the rocker shaft in place and thread the bolts in then snugging it down.

The sound may have been the pushrod snapping into the lifter completely when spring pressure helped guide it home. Since it rotates w/o binding, you're probably okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That's my though, I thing I will pull a ignition fuse and have my wife crank it a few times while I listen when I get every thing back together. I did enjoy this project, it is great haveing all these O rings and T seals, not like the past of scraping off silicon.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Will do, I've been busy with other things, I hope to start the car tonight, going to fill up rad and load start up tune. If you don't have a 1/4 " universal you should get one, it makes the valve cover nuts a breeze, especially the passenger side towards fire wall. There is two sizes, the long is for pressing on the wire loom retainer you will see the difference if they have a long one, on that hard to get spot ( like mine was ) switch it to a short one when you reinstall.
 

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Will do, I've been busy with other things, I hope to start the car tonight, going to fill up rad and load start up tune. If you don't have a 1/4 " universal you should get one, it makes the valve cover nuts a breeze, especially the passenger side towards fire wall. There is two sizes, the long is for pressing on the wire loom retainer you will see the difference if they have a long one, on that hard to get spot ( like mine was ) switch it to a short one when you reinstall.
Awesome thanks!What are you using for a startup tune??
 
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