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Discussion Starter #1
Lowered my RT about 13000 mi ago. First 10,000 miles on the tires showed no wear on the inside rear. Took it to a local shop becasue the fronts showed inside wear (negative camber a little but mostly too much tow in.) and they said my camber was "just on the limits and would probably be OK".

3000 mi later the insides of my rear tires are eaten clean away exposing cords this after they adjusted the tow on all 4 wheels.

Now I'm not saying that the adjustable bushings for the rear, and upper arms for the front would've been a great idea at the time and I knew this wasn't adjustable, BUT them being the "professionals" here and saying I would be OK AND the fact that the rear tires had no where near this amount of inside wear at the time of the "adjustment" leads me to believe they are partially responsible with either too much adjustment of tow and bad advice.

Am I wrong for thinking this and asking if they would meet me half way on a set of rear tires?
 

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What springs did you use, and how low are you? Which tires are you running? Did you regularly rotate your tires? Some additional info would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Eibach ProKit dropped it about 1.3 inches front 1.5 rear. Goodyear RSA 285/40/20 rear, 255/45/20 front. I rotate side to side about every 6000 mi.

The tires are about 6000 miles from being done btw. So that might help the wear process out a bit, but so far they seemed to appear to be wearing evenly.
 

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Eibach ProKit dropped it about 1.3 inches front 1.5 rear. Goodyear RSA 285/40/20 rear, 255/45/20 front. I rotate side to side about every 6000 mi.

The tires are about 6000 miles from being done btw. So that might help the wear process out a bit, but so far they seemed to appear to be wearing evenly.
My guess is that with that type of drop, you have a fair amount of negative camber (I can't imagine bad toe being responsible for inner tread wear). Unfortunately on these cars you can't do a whole lot without bushings and control arms. Now I suppose if they left you at -2 or -2.5 camber and told you that it would be alright, that would be one thing. If they truly got you as close as they could without proper hardware then that's another.

Do you still have the alignment sheet you could post? It would be interesting to see what they said was "OK."
 

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X2, I'd like to see the actual alignment numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rear Camber when they turned me loose last time (pre wear) was -1.87L/ -2.17R and front camber was-1.67L/-1.72R. Thrust angle went from -0.31 to 0.01 when it was done.
 

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Rear Camber when they turned me loose last time (pre wear) was -1.87L/ -2.17R and front camber was-1.67L/-1.72R. Thrust angle went from -0.31 to 0.01 when it was done.
Uh, wow, that's nowhere near "on the limits". That's way over on the rear, no wonder you wore the tires out so fast. The factory specs are 0.75 +/- 0.65 for the rear. Yes, that's +0.75.

I'm around -1.60 on my rears, but wear has been ok. Then again, the tires I run don't last very long anyway, but I've never had a problem with inner tire wear being a problem and I couldn't have had any more adjusted out anyway, I was at around -3 with the factory bushings and was glad I ordered the +/- 1.50 camber bushings. If I want to reduce the camber any more then I'll have to go with adjustable UCAs in the rear as well and those are $$$.

Fronts specs -1.05 left, -1.35 right, +/- 0.55 each. According to my sheet I'm at -1.24 in the front (post-alignment using adjustable UCAs). I don't know what I would've been at with the OEM front UCAs, but for you I'd say you should be alright, definitely near the limit there though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well the Nittos are on and the bushings are here (but not in until the snow is gone..ugh). I'll have it on the rack after and see where I stand. I'm really hoping I don't have to go with replacing the front upper arms, but if I have to Sure will. If I do that, then I will go with the bushing kit and heavier antisway.
 
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