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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done their cams? Results? Thoughts? Thinking about doing them but wanted feedback and info.
 

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Richmonddjs is their anything your car dosent have? LoL!! I'm thinking about doing the 1.1, are they worth it? What was the install like?
 

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Richmonddjs is their anything your car dosent have? LoL!! I'm thinking about doing the 1.1, are they worth it? What was the install like?
Yeah, there's a lot my car doesn't have but if it doesn't make me any faster or lighter it doesn't get bought! Hehehehe!

Even if you buy the cams you need to remove the heads. You will not be able to get them in with the heads bolted on the car. The cams have to come out the back at the firewall and the cams are too long to get out of there.

While you're at it you will need to get new head bolts as they are tty bolts. They stretch when you torque them down. New head gaskets, remember how your timing belt came off because if you flip it and put it on a different way it will skip a tooth. Not good for the timing. I made that mistake and had to buy a new belt ($180 retail). The cam sprockets and crank sprocket wears on the belt a certain way so before you take the belt off put a arrow pointing in or out so you know which way the belt goes back on. Or before you take it off you can bump it until you see the mopar writing on the belt and then you will know how it goes back on. Other than that it's pretty simple. You will need a new EGR valve gasket and the blue one on the tube, back gasket seals for the cam covers. Cam seals will be ok as they rarely go bad unless you gouge one. Oh, gotta drop the manifolds and the one bolt to the alternator to the bracket is a BEAR to get to and break loose. I made it easy and just pulled the whole motor. So much easier to get to everything. Chrysler made it very easy to get it out. You can re use your other gaskets. You do not need to take out the water pump. But then again I don't know how many miles you have on it since you're there you may want to put a new one in. If you take out the whole motor you might as well buy a stall converter and get the 1.2 cams. The 1.2 cams are the same price.

Supposedly I will get a 75 hp increase with this set up. I'm hoping its 75 at the wheel. I will know more once I get it to my tuner/dyno guy in Va Beach. My last base run was 414rwhp. Hoping to hit 475 as I don't want to have to do any tranny work or upgrade because I hear it can only handle up to 500rwhp.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the write up. I'm still debating between going forced induction or staying naturally aspersted. I didn't know the cam swap was that involved, and pricey. It's almost as much as the s/c setup with less gains. Decisions decisions....
 

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Thanks for the write up. I'm still debating between going forced induction or staying naturally aspersted. I didn't know the cam swap was that involved, and pricey. It's almost as much as the s/c setup with less gains. Decisions decisions....
Well, it depends on if you are going to do the work yourself as I have or hire someone to do it. If I were to install cams on someone else's 3.5 I would charge them 800 plus parts. But you're still well under entry price to a SC. Your best bet since the heads have to come off anyway is to buy the big valve heads too. Sell your old heads and get some coin back. You can sell the stock heads for around 200 each. However Inertia wants the cores and if you don't hand them over it's just gonna cost you more. The other way is to send your heads off to them and get it done. But your car will be down for a few weeks. Hope it's not your daily driver.
 
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