I’m getting a pair of JBA long tubes here soon in the upcoming months, I will only be Dyno tuning once before I’m done with mods for a while so I figure, hell why not a cam shaft! I like the 274 sound and performance gain, but I’m daily driving a 2017 challenger TA Plus 5.7. This way I’ll only have to Dyno tune once.
I looked around and saw the 392 cam is a nice one, the comp 270 and 266 I’ve heard good about as well. I’m not sure which ones I would be better off with. I’m looking for low-mid range but I do want to be able to tell I have a cam sound wise.
I can’t find any recent info on this as most are bumping 5.7 to 375-400 and that’s years ago, mine is making 375 stock.
What would the best performance cams be for a daily driver? I want the most performance gain but being low-mid range rpms. Also, what all would be needed for this swap? I figure I’ll need a phase limiter and springs atleast for any cam I do.
Thank you!
If you are going to cam the 5.7 you might want to also think about going with a 6.4 manifold as well. Do a search on the forum, plenty of guys have upgraded the camshaft and manifold.
BTW this guy shows what a 6.4 cam (just needs upgraded springs no limiter or lifter swap required), intake, and headers can produce.
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I am saving up for the "Big Daddy" cam over at OST. I am going to start with just s tune first, (hopefully around May) then long tubes maybe later this summer with a retune and then next year, the cam, ported heads and torque converter. Hoping for 500 WHP out of my 5.7l
Lot cheaper to do this than a cam with long tubes. My cam swap with top of the line upgrades was pushing $6k and that was with me doing the labor. I pulled the heads, ported them, and swapped lifters too. That's why it cost as much as it did.
I am sure you know this already...but honestly, just throwing a SC on the 5.7 ~$7k you can out perform a 6.4. Not much labor involved to install one and still makes good power with the stock exhaust manifolds. But $12 for headers, cam, heads, and converter on a 5.7....you still won't get the power levels the SC running 8# of boost can provide. I would love to do a 426 but man the cost just makes me look for a Red Eye.
Hey chally, would I be risking anything driving with untuned headers and a cam for a short amount of Time? Install is only 1500, Dyno tune is 550 and 125 per hour on top of 550. Overall I think I’m looking at 4-5k overall. Installing jba long tubes (700) by my self, running open headers. For a Dyno tune I need a diablo tuner and unlocked pcm, but I was wondering if I could save a little bit and put off tuning for a week or two until a few extra paychecks hit. I doubt theirs a payment plan lol
I run an innovative sports wideband only because the gauge has a shift light, boost level and AFR multifunciton. AEM also makes a nice AFR gauge which plugs into the OBD port that works quite well with HP tuners. Both systems use the bosch O2 sensor and both can be wired into the diablo tuner.
The t2 would use the OBD port right? I plan on mounting it on the windshield and keeping it there to watch things and gauges. Those 2 widebands could be wired into the T2 somehow so I could run them both from the OBD at the same time right?
Just some food for thought...a magnuson supercharger with upgraded fuel pump capable of 8lb boost will cost you ~$7200 (includes tune, tuner and PCM but not install, however if you are handy can be installed by yourself over the weekend) and will get you ~120HP. Where as a the cam is running you $6200 (including install) which will net you say 80HP (giving the benefit of the doubt here). Sure, you can always add SC later but the cam will not be optimized for running one.
Just some food for thought...a magnuson supercharger with upgraded fuel pump capable of 8lb boost will cost you ~$7200 (includes tune, tuner and PCM but not install, however if you are handy can be installed by yourself over the weekend) and will get you ~120HP. Where as a the cam is running you $6200 (including install) which will net you say 80HP (giving the benefit of the doubt here). Sure, you can always add SC later but the came will not be optimized for running one.
I think I read $50 for a 10lb bottle. (?). That may be old info. So it’s more of a “pay as you go” type affair. Certainly could end up being expensive if you are always using it or at the track every weekend. The cost of refill would act as a deterrent to mashing the gas all the time - which might help keep me out of trouble. lol
So this is a great thread for me to jump in on. I currently have a 5.7 M6 car that I’ve done heads and Cam on along with headers. I’ve done all of the work and out the door I’m at $2100 for parts. I also have a pieces together Nitrous Kit that is very complete at the moment that I’m at roughly $800 invested. With that said. I race I. The MSHS for 4-5 events plus Test and Tunes here in MD. I spend roughly $3-$500 per event racing (filling 5 bottles). They point here is if you want to modify your car even doing it yourself cheap is a relative term. I’m in the process of converting to Boost because I’m very tired of $7-$8 per pound bottle fills. Plus the hassle of updating bottles for certain places.
...I spend roughly $3-$500 per event racing (filling 5 bottles). They point here is if you want to modify your car even doing it yourself cheap is a relative term. I’m in the process of converting to Boost because I’m very tired of $7-$8 per pound bottle fills. Plus the hassle of updating bottles for certain places.
Yeah, I would think for a regular racer like yourself that boost would be more economical. Probably anything more than 1 bottle per month/Nitrous as a novelty/punch the button every now and then just for giggles (I HAD to go there! ?)...would be better off to spring for the blower in the long term.