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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled my 5.7 non-MDS camshaft last night to install my new 6.4 non-MDS Cam and found the following.
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2018 Challenger R/T 392 6 speed manual
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288 Posts
Perfect timing. Were you planning on doing the lifters as well or just a cam swap?
 

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2015 Challenger R/T Plus 8 Speed
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Is this just the oem stuff that does this or should I worry about this with my Comp Cams Cam?
 

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2018 Challenger R/T 392 6 speed manual
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288 Posts
I was planning on just doing the cam swap, there was no abnormal ticking noises, but now i would be crazy not to do the lifters i think.
Yup. Project just doubled in cost and time. Pull the heads and get them cleaned up with some new valve seats, maybe valves too if needed. Not sure if you want to port the heads because then you might want a different cam, which might need different springs... rabbit hole.
 

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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is this just the oem stuff that does this or should I worry about this with my Comp Cams Cam?
That depends if this is found to be a lifter failure, camshaft failure, or oil/oiling issue

That depends if this is found to be a lifter failure, camshaft failure, or oil/oiling issue
another thing i read that i thought was interesting was that it’s possible that the valve spring rate may be too low causing the lifter to actually bounce on the lobes. Not sure how accurate that is.
 

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I think you caught an issue that was starting to happen

it looks like the base plating/ finish in the lobe was starting to go but its on the base circle and not present on the whole lobe

usually when the roller us going out it wears the entire surface

I'm suspecting overdue oil changes or oil quality wasn't adequate

with those miles go with new lifters with the new cam
 

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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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89 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think you caught an issue that was starting to happen

it looks like the base plating/ finish in the lobe was starting to go but its on the base circle and not present on the whole lobe

usually when the roller us going out it wears the entire surface

I'm suspecting overdue oil changes or oil quality wasn't adequate

with those miles go with new lifters with the new cam
any lifter brand recommendations?
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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1,282 Posts
any lifter brand recommendations?
Mopar, they updated the lifters. Anything for a 6 speed(non-MDS) is fine, and they're all the same. No such thing as "hellcat lifters"

Is this just the oem stuff that does this or should I worry about this with my Comp Cams Cam?
We just put a texas speed cam in my brother's 2010 auto 5.7. 165k miles on the all stock motor and it wasn't nearly as bad as this, not every motor is the same though, some will last 300k miles some only 50k.
 
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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mopar, they updated the lifters. Anything for a 6 speed(non-MDS) is fine, and they're all the same. No such thing as "hellcat lifters"
I looked last night and mmx wanted almost $700 for them i damn near crapped myself
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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I looked last night and mmx wanted almost $700 for them i damn near crapped myself
I get them for $350-370, keep looking. I can get you part numbers if you need however I'm not sure if the places I get them from are vendors here, so I'm not sure if it would be fair to give direct links
 

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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I get them for $350-370, keep looking. I can get you part numbers if you need however I'm not sure if the places I get them from are vendors here, so I'm not sure if it would be fair to give direct links
You can PM me if you would like with some info
 

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2021 Challenger R/T Shaker • F8 Green • 5.7 Liter Hemi • 6 Speed Manual
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Looks like you caught it "just in time" although too late to avoid a costly repair. These motors have (in the opinion of some very qualified mechanics) a serious engine block design problem that causes the cam to NOT be constantly drenched in oil at low/idle RPMs.

If it were me, I'd change the lifters although they could be fine. Since you have it torn down anyway, I'd consider upgraded or HC lifters but that could be overkill. You'll likely get another 85k+ miles out of a rebuild even using stock parts and by the time the problem crops up again (if it ever does) the car will be well near end of life by then.

In my research, it appears that running a lubricant like AMSOIL that has excellent shear attributes can help to avoid this problem. Or just jazzing the throttle every 60 seconds or so if you are stuck in traffic so as to keep the cam well drenched in oil.

Anything longer than 5,000 is too long for me when it comes to oil changes. I run the extended drain interval AMSOIL in everything I own. Cheap insurance.
 

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2015 SRT 392
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Yup. Project just doubled in cost and time. Pull the heads and get them cleaned up with some new valve seats, maybe valves too if needed. Not sure if you want to port the heads because then you might want a different cam, which might need different springs... rabbit hole.
Porting the heads will get you minimal gains unless you plan on getting radical with your build later on. If you're doing them yourself then that's one thing, but if paying for them to be done could get you a poor ROI (Return on Investment). Just my opinion though because it's your engine and your money. If you get some springs that will take .650" lift, then unless you go solid roller later, you'll be alright. The bad thing is that you can have too much spring pressure too. It's a slippery slop.

Before I'd spend $700 on a set of OEM Non-MDS lifters, I'd buy some Johnson lifters. I'm not knocking Dodge, but they are better quality and made in the USA. The bad thing is that you might have to measure and buy new pushrods too because the lifters might be shorter.

Johnson lifters................

A good article about the Hemi Tick............
 

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2012 dodge challenger R/T
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks like you caught it "just in time" although too late to avoid a costly repair. These motors have (in the opinion of some very qualified mechanics) a serious engine block design problem that causes the cam to NOT be constantly drenched in oil at low/idle RPMs.

If it were me, I'd change the lifters although they could be fine. Since you have it torn down anyway, I'd consider upgraded or HC lifters but that could be overkill. You'll likely get another 85k+ miles out of a rebuild even using stock parts and by the time the problem crops up again (if it ever does) the car will be well near end of life by then.

In my research, it appears that running a lubricant like AMSOIL that has excellent shear attributes can help to avoid this problem. Or just jazzing the throttle every 60 seconds or so if you are stuck in traffic so as to keep the cam well drenched in oil.

Anything longer than 5,000 is too long for me when it comes to oil changes. I run the extended drain interval AMSOIL in everything I own. Cheap insurance.
since ive owned the car i do 3k miles oil change interval with synthetic oil would a high volume or pressure pump help

Porting the heads will get you minimal gains unless you plan on getting radical with your build later on. If you're doing them yourself then that's one thing, but if paying for them to be done could get you a poor ROI (Return on Investment). Just my opinion though because it's your engine and your money. If you get some springs that will take .650" lift, then unless you go solid roller later, you'll be alright. The bad thing is that you can have too much spring pressure too. It's a slippery slop.

Before I'd spend $700 on a set of OEM Non-MDS lifters, I'd buy some Johnson lifters. I'm not knocking Dodge, but they are better quality and made in the USA. The bad thing is that you might have to measure and buy new pushrods too because the lifters might be shorter.

Johnson lifters................

A good article about the Hemi Tick............
I am going to run the mopar performance springs with manley pushrods with the scatpack camshaft. Im not going to port the heads, they’re going in the parts washer and thats it.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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I pulled my 5.7 non-MDS camshaft last night to install my new 6.4 non-MDS Cam and found the following.
How to the cam bearings look? I see some wear there too.
 
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