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Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking of putting in a system that will have around 1800 to 2000 watts rms total. I'm going to have a xs power ds1200 providing power for the sound system and the car with the stock alternator. My question is will this be too much for the cars electrical system to handle and potential cause damage or should I go for something less? like 1500 watts rms
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah you could say that. I'm 22 and I feel like my hearing has been affected by loud music from my old vehicles sound system.
 

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Give it a shot, unless you're playing sinewaves. Amp efficiency is going to make a huge difference, so if you're worried, stick with Class D amps. A/B are ~50% efficient. D are more like ~90%. That's power in versus power used for sound, so A/B waste a lot of alternator output on heat.
 

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Give it a shot, unless you're playing sinewaves. Amp efficiency is going to make a huge difference, so if you're worried, stick with Class D amps. A/B are ~50% efficient. D are more like ~90%. That's power in versus power used for sound, so A/B waste a lot of alternator output on heat.
This^^^ Also, there are a lot more important specs for systems than just watts. Watts is all show and does not have a lot to do with a great sounding system. I suggest doing some more research on some audiophile type websites. Unless, of course, you are only going for some type of watts bragging rights then just have fun with it keeping in mind what "ceri" stated above. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well I decided to go with the 1400 watt over the 900 watt monoblock. Its the CT Sounds AT1400.1 class D. It's a really good amp from all the things ive read and heard. If any of yall are familiar with Steve Meade he did a review on it and seemed very impressed by the amp.

heres a link to it: 14001

can't beat the price either, only $309 shipped.

Now I have plenty of power for the 2 SA-8v2s ill be powering. Im going to throw my Memphis Mojo M3 15 in the trunk once i have it wired up just to see how it handles the amp.

Thoughts?
 

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Too funny!! I sure hope so!!

I am pushing 2500 Watts RMS with my setup and haven't seen any smoke yet!

My T-1000 is rated at 1587 watts at 2 ohms, The T-600 is going away and being replaced by a Arc Audio but was 600 watts and the P-400 is 400 watts. All TRUE RMS specs.

Make sure you do as much of the "Big 3" as you can cause it made a big difference for me.

I just added a new fuse block with a built in volt meter so it will be interesting to see just what is going on in real time.

Everything is down now waiting for my component 6 1/2" to come back. I have used the opportunity to wire up a new fuse block for future upgrades and some LED cooling fans and will be posting some pics in my build thread
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well If u see smoke you got serious problems lol. I'm just concerned bc my understanding is that the Challengers electrical system is highly tuned to specific voltage level, drawing the voltage down with strains from audio might cause the computer to start functioning oddly and cause electronic problems. Maybe I'm under the impression the challenger is much more sensitive than it actually is but that's my concern.
My 2002 Chevy Avalanche has far less computers and electricals managing stuff so when voltage drops to 10 volts I don't think it's as severe as maybe in the challenger.

As far as the big 3 goes... How in the world do you differienate the power wire under the hood bc it goes into a loom tightly packed by the firewall. It seems nearly impossible to separate everything and then rerun new wires

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Good point. I replaced my Battery to ground and Positive to amp rack with "0" gauge feeds and it helped the dimming a lot. I would think that the Amp to Battery "0" gauge run would need another path than through the firewall. I am looking forward to seeing the voltage readings when connect the new fuse block. Here is the one I am using;

 

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Discussion Starter #12
The CT Sounds AT1400.1 has this badass bass knob with a digital voltage meter along with a clipping detector light. Not sure if the voltage level from the mono block is completely accurate to the voltage level of the actual car though...

does anyone know where specifically the engine ground is located under the hood?
 
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