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pull #2 fuse and see if it brings it back to life.
 

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release the parking brake lol jk pulling your #2 fuse should fix it. especially if you drove like a grandma for a day or two
 

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If anything I've driven it way harder lol

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Your probably just getting used to it. Did you put new gas in it? If your running the 93 tune and put 91 or cheap 93 gas in it, it will slow down.
The canned tunes only give you 10 - 15 HP so it is hard to feel that. What you do feel is the reduction in tq mgmnt and that should last as long as you have the tune installed.
 

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Just re read this and realized the three count is to reset the oil indicator. Read below for throttle recal.

Tip:43
ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization:

Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system.
This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again.

Note that the throttle body assembly itself performs a self-diagnostic (full open/close) prior to every key-start.

PCM Zero/Span Throttle Calibration

Throttle Calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard."
Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a pedal "dead area" at initial accelerator depression.

Throttle calibration can take care of these.

Procedure steps:

1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
(HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.)
(On some PCM versions, Check Engine light (CEL) may start flashing here)
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.

Many drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to
repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's (PCM) adaptive programming.

NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

NOTE: This procedure was a carry over from the LX (Charger) days and seemed to work on some early model Challengers.
Some folks have seen this work on some Challengers and others have seen nothing as far as any accelerator pedal characteristics.
With as many PCM software changes over the past several years, this procedure may now do nothing whatsoever. Some folks
say the whole thing is nothing but a myth. Some folks swear that it has helped them in making the accelerator pedal more
sensitive and more responsive.

Note the recent highlights from the Dodge Challenger SRT Engineer Chat sessions;
 
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