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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If you are NOT willing to drill 24 holes in your hood don't get this kit!

I finally found time to get the hood portion prepped, painted an installed.

As with the air box there is a lot of mold release left on the plastic. You will need something like prep-sol to clean it before sanding. It took the better part if a day to sand it. I used 2 coats of self etching primer with a light sanding between coats with a scotch bite pad and then wiped down with a tack rag. I let that dry for 24 hours and sprayed a coat of primer sealer. I wiped it down with a fresh tack rag and sprayed 3 coats of black and let dry for 24 hours.

Removing the hood panel is not real hard other than you will destroy the scrivets that hold it on. I bought a set plastic panel tools at Harbor Freight and they work great.

Now for the install. First it should be noted that the supplied scriverts will work but I opted to used #10x3/4 SS self tapping sheet metal screws for the outside perimeter. You will need 24. The head of the #10 screw is a tad small so I added a #8 washer under it. I think if add a touch of black paint or a button cover it will look ok.

So how well does the panel fit to the hood? I would say that they are in the 90+%. There are few spots where the panel is far enough away from the hood that scrivet won't work.

My SIL helped me install the first 2 scrivets to hold the panel in place. After that it is a one man job. One thing you will find is the hood sheet metal is REALLY thin aluminum. The self tapping screw went through it like a knife thru butter. So, you need to be careful and not over tighten them as you will strip them.





 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ordered mine last week. So how do you like yours so far? Anything you would do differently?
I would test fit the hood with the existing holes to see it I had any rubbing. I have one spot along the edge of the aluminum air box cover. The unit needs to be shift towards the pass side by maybe a 1/4" to 3/8". But that may just how the unit comes out of the mold. I don't think the molding tolerances are tight enough.

But, all in alll it works pretty good... RAM AIR - NOT as any force is long gone by the time it reaches the air box and besides the seal between the air box and hood, for a better choice of words, SUCKS.

You can tell the difference in air temp at 40 mph and 60 mph, according to my Scan Gauge II.
 

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Cool. I got the K&N filter today, hopefully the rest will arrive soon. I plan to add a seal of some sort at the air box, but not sure exactly what yet. I'll definitely pre-fit for the holes. I'll do it in stages like you did as well - that seems like a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have some flat rubber seal I got from O'Reilly's for $10 that I am going to try.
 

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I have some flat rubber seal I got from O'Reilly's for $10 that I am going to try.
Thanks for the great review!I have had mine for a year and love it!I did the same thing with selftappers but i used a type of button head washer(not sure what they are called?).I aslo used a seal for the airbox, its made by 3M weatherstriping for a door, it has to be real thin like an 1/8th of an inch thick.Mine is a little to thick and i notice that the hood stays up a little on the Drivers side when closed?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I decided to add a rubber seal to the hood portion of the CAI. I got the seal at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Although it shows the seal to be 3/4" thick I compresses down to about 1/4".



To minimize splices I start in the middle on the back side. I had make 2 45º cuts to make the 90º corners.



The only down side is that the corner of the hood might stick up a tad.
 

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So you dont install the hood insulator when you are done?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No... that is the first thing you remove as it is not needed.
 

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I put mine on Memorial Day. Took longer than anticipated (all of my projects do for some reason:notallthere:). I had to replace some of the screws in the scrivets to get them to hold, and needed a third hand to get the underhood plenum close enough to the hood for them to hold, but I finally got it done. I used some door seal from Home Depot 'cause the O'Reily's near me didn't have any seal material. Looks good...I'll have to post a pic later. Don't really notice much louder intake noise, but I haven't amputated the silencer yet. Maybe next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just cut it off, used a trimmed a large hood scrivet and use some black rtv to glue it in place.



 

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Seal Stip

Hemi57

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I decided to add a rubber seal to the hood portion of the CAI. I got the seal at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Although it shows the seal to be 3/4" thick I compresses down to about 1/4".

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


To minimize splices I start in the middle on the back side. I had make 2 45º cuts to make the 90º corners.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.


What did you use to attach the seal strip? Please and Thank you.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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Just peel off the backing and your ready to go. I just peeled off enough to get started and then peel and stick it down as you go around the opening, cutting where necessary.
 

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hello, if you go on you tube and plug in cervini ram air, you get a vid of a guy with a challenger putting a piece of paper on the hood scoop and everytime he revs the engine the paper sucks in ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hello, if you go on you tube and plug in cervini ram air, you get a vid of a guy with a challenger putting a piece of paper on the hood scoop and everytime he revs the engine the paper sucks in ?
Yes.... That's what I would expect. The air is coming from the hood scoops. But, you still don't have ram air as the air has to make to many turns and thus does not create the RAM effect.

Also, you need to consider the heat soak of the air box and connecting tube to the TB. On the road your IAT will usually be about 10 degrees warmer that the outside air. In town heat soak from the engine takes over and the IAT temps will be 20 to 50 degrees higher. It takes about 10 miles of hwy driving to get the IAT back to 10 over.
 
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