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Discussion Starter #1
My mileage is 74K KM and the car drives fine I dont feel any issue.

Its not always there which makes me uncomfortable. Is it normal that the car starts to make a continuous whistle like sound when I give gas ? It only starts when I go beyond 50 Kilos and while on gas. Stops when I remove.

It becomes loudest at around 70 to 100 Kilometers.

Its not loud noise its just hearable and doesnt seem right. What could it be ??
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Check the intake manifold bolts for proper torque. Other things to check are ETC seal, evap hoses, PCV and brake booster/check valve. I had a busted evap solenoid hose on my 5.7 JGC and the car ran fine with no codes showing up but I heard a faint whistle during idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check the intake manifold bolts for proper torque. Other things to check are ETC seal, evap hoses, PCV and brake booster/check valve. I had a busted evap solenoid hose on my 5.7 JGC and the car ran fine with no codes showing up but I heard a faint whistle during idle.
It doesnt happen when idle. Only on gas and at 50 KM and up speed. It has to be something related to gas cause it stops as soon as I lift my leg.
 

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In my case it was idle (JGC runs a slightly different setup than challengers) but in your case it still can be the items I mentioned above. Not uncommon for the intake manifold bolts to loosen on the RTs.

Could also be normal and you are just now noticing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In my case it was idle (JGC runs a slightly different setup than challengers) but in your case it still can be the items I mentioned above. Not uncommon for the intake manifold bolts to loosen on the RTs.

Could also be normal and you are just now noticing it.
In my case it was idle (JGC runs a slightly different setup than challengers) but in your case it still can be the items I mentioned above. Not uncommon for the intake manifold bolts to loosen on the RTs.

Could also be normal and you are just now noticing it.
could it be something in the differential ?! its too early to have diff damage at 45 Miles. I feel like its coming from the back. it has to be either this or something in the exhaust system.
 

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The differential makes more of a whine/hum than a whistle and usually at speeds of around 65KPH under light throttle. Also usually sounds like it is coming from the back seat area. Some say that after a real bad wheel hop the diff can start to whine. Also, more prone to occur on a manual trans challenger. Mine whines and it seems to get louder as the diff warms up. Nothing to really worry about but can get annoying on a long cruise. Some say higher viscosity oil makes it better but I have tried that and no change. Only real fix is to swap out the diff BUT no guarantee it won't happen again.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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could it be something in the differential ?! its too early to have diff damage at 45 Miles. I feel like its coming from the back. it has to be either this or something in the exhaust system.
Not impossible for a diff to act up at 45K miles. They can go bad at any time but of course most don't go bad for a long long time most of the time long after the original owner (or 3) had moved on.

It sort "sounds" like a diff problem in that is only present at some speed and goes away when you lift off the gas. Lifting off the gas changes the diff dynamics and noise that was present under throttle can go away or in some cases, granted not as common, a quiet diff becomes noisy when the gas pedal is lifted.

But I'm not convinced it is a diff problem I'm just discussing the possibilities.

Be sure you do as ChallyTatum suggested.

You don't want to replace a diff and find out the problem was a busted hose.

The source of the noise can be the tires, too. Tires especially large tires, wide, high performance tires, get darn noisy as they wear and age. The heat cycles make the rubber harder and the tires if they last long enough can get pretty darn hard. And noisy.

Not but a few weeks ago I had to replace the rear tires on my Hellcat due to a puncture of one tire. While the tires had just 13K miles and based on the tread depth had around another 13K miles left in them. Even with some good tread life left I was a bit surprised at how quiet the car was with just the new rear tires. But this should have not been a surprise when I think about it. My previous cars were transformed with new tires. I didn't realize how noisy the tires were until I had new ones installed.

Alignment can produce a noise at speed. I had what I was sure was a front wheel bearing or front diff (AWD car) howl at speed, at above 70mph. Had the car in for a check and and the tech diagnosed the problem as a minor alignment problem. When I expressed some mild skepticism he showed me a front tire and sure enough I could feel the feathering on the tread blocks and I could see the rough surface of the tread. A 2K mile drive home and an alignment -- front toe was out -- and after a hundred miles or so for the tires to adapt to the new settings the tire noise was gone.

That the noise goes away when you lift off the gas can be due to the rear tires and their slight change in their alignment when they are no longer being driven. As with the diff the dynamics of the rear tires change from under throttle to coasting.

Feel the tire tread surfaces for any signs of feathering. Also, generally the tread blocks want to be smooth but if you see signs that the tread faces have been abraded -- kind of like a race car tire looks -- that could be the source of the noise. Only one tire might be the source though so check them all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not impossible for a diff to act up at 45K miles. They can go bad at any time but of course most don't go bad for a long long time most of the time long after the original owner (or 3) had moved on.

It sort "sounds" like a diff problem in that is only present at some speed and goes away when you lift off the gas. Lifting off the gas changes the diff dynamics and noise that was present under throttle can go away or in some cases, granted not as common, a quiet diff becomes noisy when the gas pedal is lifted.

But I'm not convinced it is a diff problem I'm just discussing the possibilities.

Be sure you do as ChallyTatum suggested.

You don't want to replace a diff and find out the problem was a busted hose.

The source of the noise can be the tires, too. Tires especially large tires, wide, high performance tires, get darn noisy as they wear and age. The heat cycles make the rubber harder and the tires if they last long enough can get pretty darn hard. And noisy.

Not but a few weeks ago I had to replace the rear tires on my Hellcat due to a puncture of one tire. While the tires had just 13K miles and based on the tread depth had around another 13K miles left in them. Even with some good tread life left I was a bit surprised at how quiet the car was with just the new rear tires. But this should have not been a surprise when I think about it. My previous cars were transformed with new tires. I didn't realize how noisy the tires were until I had new ones installed.

Alignment can produce a noise at speed. I had what I was sure was a front wheel bearing or front diff (AWD car) howl at speed, at above 70mph. Had the car in for a check and and the tech diagnosed the problem as a minor alignment problem. When I expressed some mild skepticism he showed me a front tire and sure enough I could feel the feathering on the tread blocks and I could see the rough surface of the tread. A 2K mile drive home and an alignment -- front toe was out -- and after a hundred miles or so for the tires to adapt to the new settings the tire noise was gone.

That the noise goes away when you lift off the gas can be due to the rear tires and their slight change in their alignment when they are no longer being driven. As with the diff the dynamics of the rear tires change from under throttle to coasting.

Feel the tire tread surfaces for any signs of feathering. Also, generally the tread blocks want to be smooth but if you see signs that the tread faces have been abraded -- kind of like a race car tire looks -- that could be the source of the noise. Only one tire might be the source though so check them all.
Its so weird to think the tires are the issue. I did just install new tires and did an alignment but they are GOODYEAR and they look fine. If something is wrong with the tires first it will be very obvious and very constant. it will happen whether you're on throttle or not also the sound is just not like something a tire would do. It sounds like its coming from "inside" the car. If its an alignment issue at speed then the sound should stay there for a while when I stop the throttle but it doesnt it goes away immediately.

I just installed new tires, New brake pads and new tire bearings. It cant be these. Especially when throttle above 50 K is the only trigger.

The only two systems I can think of that are very related to throttle are the exhaust and the differential. Im planning to change the diff oil maybe its the cause. I cant check it for damage unfortunately. Also I will check the exhaust pipes for any leaks. That whistle noise sounds like it can come from a punctured exhaust or something interacting with air.
 

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If you replaced a wheel bearing and the bearing preload is not correct it can produce whine/hum noise as well but it usually present at all speeds...throttle or no throttle. Can you post a vid or audio file of the noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The differential makes more of a whine/hum than a whistle and usually at speeds of around 65KPH under light throttle. Also usually sounds like it is coming from the back seat area. Some say that after a real bad wheel hop the diff can start to whine. Also, more prone to occur on a manual trans challenger. Mine whines and it seems to get louder as the diff warms up. Nothing to really worry about but can get annoying on a long cruise. Some say higher viscosity oil makes it better but I have tried that and no change. Only real fix is to swap out the diff BUT no guarantee it won't happen again.
my Issue sounds so much like this. 65K is like the prime speed for this sound and with light throttle cause if you press harder the engine will overlap it but its still there. and maybe thats why i dont have it always cause it only starts when the diff is warm. I guess thats it. It never happens when I just start to drive it only starts after some time. shit if Im gonna replace the diff the car is still fairly new with just 75K Kilos. Its so cheap of dodge to have diffs breaking this soon. We buy these cars to listen to the Hemi rumble and then we get this stupid humming from cheap gears.

Its an automatic with limited slip diff
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you replaced a wheel bearing and the bearing preload is not correct it can produce whine/hum noise as well but it usually present at all speeds...throttle or no throttle. Can you post a vid or audio file of the noise?
funny thing is when I tried to record it it didnt come up. But I will try again Im sure it will come.
 

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my Issue sounds so much like this. 65K is like the prime speed for this sound and with light throttle cause if you press harder the engine will overlap it but its still there. and maybe thats why i dont have it always cause it only starts when the diff is warm. I guess thats it. It never happens when I just start to drive it only starts after some time. shit if Im gonna replace the diff the car is still fairly new with just 75K Kilos. Its so cheap of dodge to have diffs breaking this soon. We buy these cars to listen to the Hemi rumble and then we get this stupid humming from cheap gears.

Its an automatic with limited slip diff
Honestly this sounds like the rear diff but you also mentioned you had the wheel bearing replaced which I find odd especially at such low mileage.

On my diff there is little to no noise initially but once the diff oil warms up it gets whiny. It is most noticeable at 65kph. If I feather the throttle so no load is on the drivetrain it almost disappears but if you give a little gas or back off it is audible again.

The diff is not broken but the pinion bearing preload might be out of spec causing the ring and pinion teeth to mesh in a way that produces more wear/noise. Re-shimming the pinion gear might fix it but these diffs are really not serviceable especially since the ring gear is welded on the carrier and not bolted. Servicing a diff will cost you just about the same price as buying a new one because either way the diff must be removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Honestly this sounds like the rear diff but you also mentioned you had the wheel bearing replaced which I find odd especially at such low mileage.

On my diff there is little to no noise initially but once the diff oil warms up it gets whiny. It is most noticeable at 65kph. If I feather the throttle so no load is on the drivetrain it almost disappears but if you give a little gas or back off it is audible again.
I didnt replace the bearing just repolished them.

It has to be the diff now. I dont know how to describe the sound it makes. I even tried to open the windows to hear it better but the air will not let you hear it. Which makes me so sure its not related to the wheels. I hope royal purple will fix it.

Does that damage have any impact on the car ??
 

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FWIW I tried RP and RP at higher viscosity and no change. Rolling down the windows masks the noise and makes it harder to pinpoint. Lots of folks running noisy diffs which don't seem to fail over time...just sounds annoying. I am running a one piece driveshaft and a supercharger and I have been trying to make the diff fail but it's still going strong...again just sounds annoying. Only really bothers me when I am on the highway for more than 1/2 hour with the windows up and radio off. That is why I drive with windows down as the roar of the exhaust drowns it out. I have a replacement diff just hate to swap it out when the original is still working.
 

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check your rubber seal at the front of the engine bay. very common problem is that this seal wears out and at certain speeds wind will flow under the hood and whistle a bit. easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
FWIW I tried RP and RP at higher viscosity and no change. Rolling down the windows masks the noise and makes it harder to pinpoint. Lots of folks running noisy diffs which don't seem to fail over time...just sounds annoying. I am running a one piece driveshaft and a supercharger and I have been trying to make the diff fail but it's still going strong...again just sounds annoying. Only really bothers me when I am on the highway for more than 1/2 hour with the windows up and radio off. That is why I drive with windows down as the roar of the exhaust drowns it out. I have a replacement diff just hate to swap it out when the original is still working.
How often do you replace the diff oil ??

And how much does a limited slip diff cost for a 2014 rt if you know ??
 

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I have replaced it a total of 3 times and I have only 40KM on the odometer. If you have a limited slip diff, don't forget to add a bottle of friction modifier otherwise it will groan at low speed turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have replaced it a total of 3 times and I have only 40KM on the odometer. If you have a limited slip diff, don't forget to add a bottle of friction modifier otherwise it will groan at low speed turns.
I ordered 2 bottles of royal purple and a mopar friction modifier. I guess it should be fine. Royal purple already comes with friction modifier inside though.
 

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I ordered 2 bottles of royal purple and a mopar friction modifier. I guess it should be fine. Royal purple already comes with friction modifier inside though.
I thought the same thing but soon found out the FM in RP is not enough...I had to add a bottle of Mopar FM.
 
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