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Discussion Starter #1
A little read, but full disclosure here I go:

It all started with my pcm swap. After running a Diablo unlocked pcm for about a year with no issues, I decided to switch to HP tuners for tuning . I THOUGHT u would have to re-send my pcm out to Diablo, so I threw the factory on back in. Noticed an odd issue with rev hang that I concluded was just the computer relearning, but also drained the battery to dead a couple of times.

I couldn't figure why. And the issue did not re-apear for a while

Came to find out I can run the Diablo Pcm with Hap's software (from both HP and my tuner who was well experienced here) so there I went to throw the unlocked pcm BACK into the car.

The gremlins came back fierce and I began to notice my cluster would not shut off.
I did amperage draw tests, I pulled just about every fuse from the trunk and under the hood (besides the airbags) and mid diagnosis, the problem fixed itself AGAIN. Baffled .

I got the tune, drive around problem free for a few weeks, and unfortunately she had to go to a body shop and the whole ordeal took about 2 months bringing us to TODAY. She's doing it again. And relentlessly. Lock the doors, walk away. Gauge lights and "press clutch to start" illuminates. Actually it starts to dim like it's shutting off, then wakes right back up and drains the crap outta my poor battery

Now, I went and changed the battery not in hopes that it would solve my issues. But a weak battery couldn't help right? New battery went on today...

The past 3 hours of testing but have a result, I have an idea of what it means, but can't be sure. Here's what happens.

When I d/c the negative battery terminal, and reconnect it, I can lock and unlock the car to my heart's content and it functions 100% properly.

As soon as I start the engine, and shut her off, it's back to not going to sleep. Some capacitor in some module isn't discharging after it gets some juice after I start the car after reconnecting the battery

Any info or ideas will be considered, besides selling the car lol

Thanks
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Anything plugged into the ODBII port? If so, try unplugging it and seeing if that makes any difference.

The original DiabloSport Trinity tuners had a bug in their software that, if left plugged into the car's ODBII port, would continually wake up and power up the dash EVIC lights, thereby draining the battery overnight.

Just spit-balling...
 
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If not what Nuke suggested, maybe a pin on one of the PCM connectors got bent/bustified, and is shorting to another?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If not what Nuke suggested, maybe a pin on one of the PCM connectors got bent/bustified, and is shorting to another?
The diablo is long gone and my tazer hasn't been plugged in for months.

I did check for bent pins a good while ago because r&r'ing that pcm is a pita, but I'll have to pull it and check again


Keep the ideas goin haha
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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There is a setting in the uConnect stuff which specifies how long the radio will remain powered up after key off (until door is opened). Try setting that to zero if it’s anything other than zero.

I had a weird glitch in my 2012 where every 20th or so shutdown the dash lights would remain on all night and run my battery down. I finally fixed it by setting that remain on setting to zero
 
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Discussion Starter #6
There is a setting in the uConnect stuff which specifies how long the radio will remain powered up after key off (until door is opened). Try setting that to zero if it’s anything other than zero.

I had a weird glitch in my 2012 where every 20th or so shutdown the dash lights would remain on all night and run my battery down. I finally fixed it by setting that remain on setting go zero
I did come across this thread myself as well, but alas no luck.

It is set to 45seconds
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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What about the 2nd FOB? When this occurs, is it always at your home (where I assume the 2nd FOB is located)?

Seems like I had an issue with my 2011 Challenger where parking it in the garage was just close enough to the 2nd FOB’s storage spot that the car would continually “see” it and wake up to do something. It wasn’t running the battery down, but it was acting weird, IDK, still just spitballing...
 

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What about the 2nd FOB? When this occurs, is it always at your home (where I assume the 2nd FOB is located)?

Seems like I had an issue with my 2011 Challenger where parking it in the garage was just close enough to the 2nd FOB’s storage spot that the car would continually “see” it and wake up to do something. It wasn’t running the battery down, but it was acting weird, IDK, still just spitballing...
Good thought, but I have the spare fob in the house
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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Alright here’s something that might be worth trying: you say the behavior will not occur immediately after a battery reset, but what about just reloading a tune or something that emulates the battery reset (except for the whole unhook and hook up battery cables part)? Does it behave similarly immediately after something like that, or does it occur as usual regardless of the tune flash?

NOTE: I’m not sure what it indicates either way, but I feel like it is significant in some way how it behaves in that scenario. So why not try it and get the data point, then we can find a use for it later 🤓
 

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So on HP tuners forum there is a thread where some people had all some gremlins (although it was related to wonking fuel trims) when using HP tuners on a Diablo unlocked PCM.

Corrupt PCM trims be wild... - Page 2

BTW did you read the diablo tune with HP tuners and then write it to the PCM with HP tuners? Usually you should not directly read and write but instead read, then copy to the stock tune, save and then write.

BTW I am running a diablo unlocked PCM but the PCM was unlocked in early 2017. I guess at some point around 2018 it was recommended that you should have the PCM unlocked by the tuner manufacturer.
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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So on HP tuners forum there is a thread where some people had all some gremlins (although it was related to wonking fuel trims) when using HP tuners on a Diablo unlocked PCM.

Corrupt PCM trims be wild... - Page 2

BTW did you read the diablo tune with HP tuners and then write it to the PCM with HP tuners? Usually you should not directly read and write but instead read, then copy to the stock tune, save and then write.
So you’re not supposed to read then write w/ an HP Tuner, but instead you’re supposed to read-copy-save and then write?!?

That would trip me up even if I weren’t a drunkard...

i shudder to think how badly I’d mangle that process with a couple three beers in my gullet...🥳
 

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So you’re not supposed to read then write w/ an HP Tuner, but instead you’re supposed to read-copy-save and then write?!?

That would trip me up even if I weren’t a drunkard...

i shudder to think how badly I’d mangle that process with a couple three beers in my gullet...🥳
Yes. You do not want to read a diablo tune and write it directly with HP tuners. Something about the boot loader can be corrupted or something like that (there is a thread about it in HP tuners IIRC). Instead you read your stock tune with HP tuners, then load the diablo written tune with diablo, read that tune with HP tuners, then open the stock tune and compare/copy the diablo tune to it, save the new modified stock tune (don't use the same name just so you can have a stock tune available for the future) and finally write the tune you saved to the PCM with HP tuners.

BTW if you tune with HP tuners there is a chance you can no longer use diablo....although I assume that is unless you return the tune to stock and not one modified by HP tuners.
 

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Trippy...another thing you can try is disconnecting both battery terminals and shorting them together to discharge the PCM completely. As for the throttle hang, you might need to recalibrate the throttle using HP tuners VCM scanner software under special functions with KOEO.

And just to be safe, plug in the tazer and go through the menus and select reboot.
 

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Yes. You do not want to read a diablo tune and write it directly with HP tuners. Something about the boot loader can be corrupted or something like that (there is a thread about it in HP tuners IIRC). Instead you read your stock tune with HP tuners, then load the diablo written tune with diablo, read that tune with HP tuners, then open the stock tune and compare/copy the diablo tune to it, save the new modified stock tune (don't use the same name just so you can have a stock tune available for the future) and finally write the tune you saved to the PCM with HP tuners.

BTW if you tune with HP tuners there is a chance you can no longer use diablo....although I assume that is unless you return the tune to stock and not one modified by HP tuners.
wait, so who’s on first??

Im gonna need another beer just to start the flowchart I’ll need to understand what you just wrote...or did you copy it and then save it and then write it? Oh man, I’m really confused now...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trippy...another thing you can try is disconnecting both battery terminals and shorting them together to discharge the PCM completely. As for the throttle hang, you might need to recalibrate the throttle using HP tuners VCM scanner software under special functions with KOEO.

And just to be safe, plug in the tazer and go through the menus and select reboot.
May be a stupid answer but, the terminals don't reach each other

What I did do is hook up the multimeter and let the power draw until it was under half a volt before tossing in the new battery. No dice boys.

I'm reading this issue a lot with the newer ram guys and it seems like it's usually something random along the lines of a module that got to humid or a bad wire somewhere God help me

As for the tune.....stock tune was returned to the pcm and I sold the diablo unmarried so that should be dandy there...

I don't have an interface for hp....yet, my tuner loaded it in for me.
 

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Alright, alright, I can see this one is going to be a right fielder, so here’s my best knuckleball: the problem lies not in the off-nominal behavior of the dash lights, although to be clear, something ain’t stirring the kool-aid there, but no, have you considered the possibility that the underlying issue here is a badly sulfated battery?

I’ll spare you the anecdotal details, but simply ask one question instead: if you pull the battery out and set it on the ground for easier visual inspection, does it appear to have at least one side of the case (front, back, left, right, top, bottom) bulging out or otherwise not squared up and perpendicular to its immediate neighbors like you would expect?
 

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Sounds like something is keeping the can bus active. When I was messing around with can bus sniffing for a member who was looking for bus data for the instrument cluster, the bus would go dead quiet when the engine was off and the power off delay was reached. I have tried using OBDlink MX with the PC version of alfaOBD (it allows you to insert commands through a console) but MX was not fast enough so I bought a can bus shield for my arduino and used hyperterminal to listen in. Apparently this can be done with the tazer but I never reach out to Zauto to ask how can this be done? Hard part is deciphering the data to figure out what is talking on the bus. This is probably the best way to get to the bottom of it and not sure if dealerships would be capable of diagnosing this way? Although I have not checked the FSM/Chilton to see how the bus is actually diagnosed for a condition where it never sleeps? What you could also do is if you have alfaOBD is to go through all the modules and check them for faults. If nothing shows up then start looking at the bus.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Alright, alright, I can see this one is going to be a right fielder, so here’s my best knuckleball: the problem lies not in the off-nominal behavior of the dash lights, although to be clear, something ain’t stirring the kool-aid there, but no, have you considered the possibility that the underlying issue here is a badly sulfated battery?

I’ll spare you the anecdotal details, but simply ask one question instead: if you pull the battery out and set it on the ground for easier visual inspection, does it appear to have at least one side of the case (front, back, left, right, top, bottom) bulging out or otherwise not squared up and perpendicular to its immediate neighbors like you would expect?
Nope, at one point the originally battery had 2 dry cells, now there is a fresh deka 9agm94r in there and the issue persists
 
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