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I was driving home thinking about racing and how to make easy gains (even though I haven't put it on the track) and I remembered when I was a kid and we went racing with our old pickups we would pull all the belts off other than the fan.
Has anyone done or tried to do this on these cars? It would be allot more complicated I know but if it were possible I know you would have more HP not turning the power steering,alternator and air conditioning.
If it's impossible with this setup maybe when the independent drive comes out we can do it then. That would be reason enough for me to get one.
 

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You might pick up some hp. Electric steering is going to eliminate the ps belt and the ac compressor spins free at wot. Some other manufacturers now have clutches for the alternator to free up hp as well. Obviously just running a belt around the crank to the waterpump would free up HP, but hell, why not add an electric waterpump and toss the serpentine belt altogether?
 

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Ya don't want to go there BM, yes it's been done a million times and is worth about 30hp or a little over a tenth. But, if you should decide to try this. Make certain your ECT is around oe under 140 degrees. Push it to the line and then you have just enought time to heat your tires, stage quickly and after the run, shut her down and tow it back.

It's not for the faint of heart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea I was thinking of the water pump if it were gear or belt drivin?? I wouldn't want to take the chance of melting my engine down I'm not that hard core. Is it possible to have a belt around that and nothing else??
 

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Yea I was thinking of the water pump if it were gear or belt drivin?? I wouldn't want to take the chance of melting my engine down I'm not that hard core. Is it possible to have a belt around that and nothing else??
Well yes and no. I developed a cheater system a couple years ago to do this with a whole new tensioner system. But run into a major issue with the belt size. No one made them and in order for me to get some, I was gonna have to buy a crap load. And then the other issue was some many guys run after market dampers in different sizes, it was just going to turn into a PITA, so I abandoned the whole thing.

Another major issue with this is the battery MUST be fully charged or it'll fall on it's face. We got around that by running a battery charger off a generator at the track.

The electric water pump, well there are a couple guys working on a retrofit kit right now. Now that's worth waiting for. The alternator, you can install a switch on the field windings to shut it down at the line, but it's only worth around 7-10HP. And like was mentioned already, the AC clutch releases at WOT.

There are much better ways to gain a couple tenths unless you're just going for a PB.
 

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just add a couple pounds of boost thats how we do it Boatman
 

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Thanks Cam good info i figured it wouldn't be easy or everyone would be talking about it.
Couple pounds here and there John then Were all maxed out and my elcheapo pistons can't hack it anyway.
 

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I thought that it was not cool to have batt. voltage drop running the fuel pump, Less voltage, less fuel presure, possible causing the motor to lean out. ?
 

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I thought that it was not cool to have batt. voltage drop running the fuel pump, Less voltage, less fuel presure, possible causing the motor to lean out. ?
You could be right on that, makes sense. I'm really not worried about the battery much I can charge it after a run.
What would make this a little more doable is the dedicated pulley system. I doubt I will be trying this anytime soon but you never know???
 

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In the world of dodge ram racing... some guys use what we refer to as a "short belt" this eliminates the a/c and power steering... not shure if it gets rid of alternator too but its good for about 10rwhp .... ive got the belt part number and actually i have an extra in the shed that i know fits on my 5.7 hemi ram... not shure if it would fit the R/T challenger too im in the process of figuring that out and will let u kno if it does

as mentioned above going with an electric fan is also a good way to help free up some HP
 

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There is a problem with eliminating the alt. Most cars built after about 96' really need that steady 14.1-14.5 volts to stay in a good operating window for the many computer systems running in these cars. installing a switch may cause a spike when you turn it back on and fry something important:bigthumb:like the pcm. The amperage is also very important for the injectors especially if you have gone with bigger ones, honestly 7-10 hp is not worth it imop. Now the power steering, water pump and a/c may give you 15-25hp but really is it worth the hassel if you are driving this thing daily or even just a weekend hot rod to mess with. You can find several other options like reducing weight, ft end alignment set to reduce push, making sure its getting good clean cold air to the intake.
 

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AC is already on a clutch. its just a pully spinning free if you turn the AC off.

As for the Alternator, they pretty much spin free too IF your not charging anything. But you will be running fuel pumps and computers and stuff so save as much hp as possible by turning off lights, radio, cooling fans, blower motors, etc and you can gain a very little. the higher the load on the electrical system will create a high load on the pulley turning the alt.

i wouldnt bypas the ps. have you ever tried to turn the wheel of these cars when the motors off??? its hard as **** to turn. id hate to be in a situation where I need to turn the wheel and it didnt turn
 

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Cold packs on the engine between runs.
 
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