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I have the thump described here, mine is a RT 6-speed. Most noticeable when backing up and doing a hard turn. I hear the thump. Had the dealer check it today, they said it was normal. In the owner's manual it does state that on 6-speed cars "it is normal to hear the transmission when operating". I assume this is the case with the thump.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Just an Update incase you're all woundering.. i took it to the dealer and gave them that list of problems and they said that everything checked out fine so i guess its fine?..the only thing they could find "wrong" was that my transmisstion fuild was low.. car has 4k miles..

thanks again!
 

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I have the thump described here, mine is a RT 6-speed. Most noticeable when backing up and doing a hard turn. I hear the thump. Had the dealer check it today, they said it was normal. In the owner's manual it does state that on 6-speed cars "it is normal to hear the transmission when operating". I assume this is the case with the thump.
might be the posi chattering a bit. quite normal.
 

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Point of info: "POSI" is a CHEVY Term. It's Sure-Grip or true LSD.

Time for me to go hang on the wheel lock or power window button to see if I can strain the electrical system.
 

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Point of info: "POSI" is a CHEVY Term. It's Sure-Grip or true LSD.

Time for me to go hang on the wheel lock or power window button to see if I can strain the electrical system.
yeah, i am old school. but it still could be chattering.
 

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1.Brakes squeak when coming to a stop but at the very last foot of the stop (real embarrassing for such a NEW and SEXY car)
Normal for new brakes and in certain temperatures.

2.When i hit a pot hole or speed bump,i hear the shocks,or struts SQUEAK too!! kinda sounds like those station wagons back in the days! i mean its not THAT loud.. but i Sure hear it even with my windows closed
dunno about this one.

3.If my windows are closed and i press the window button again to make sure that they are closed,the dash lights dim!! and i hear a sound somthing like a tiny beep when that happends
Normal on these cars. The window motors draw a lot of current when they are physically stopped and then activated

If it bothers you, buy a bigger alternator

4.Now i know i started a thread on this already BUT my exhaust Thumps! while the car is running!.dealer said it MIGHT be expanstion but "he's not sure".
Have them make sure everything is tight. this was an issue on early run LXs

5.Turn your stearing wheel ALLL the way to the Right and see if you hear a sound that sounds kinda like a Knock and squeak,i really cant describe the sound but its,some weird a$$ sound!!!.. THEN do it ALL the way to the Left!, and tell me what you hear!!..
This is normal and you should not be doing it. DO not let the steering go all the way to lock. You're putting strain on the pump for no reason. Some other cars do it too, depends on the pump used.

im sure i cant be the only one with these "problems!"..otherwise.. ...well otherwise im going to the dealership with a .45 and a shovel!!..:grim: becasue i paid WAY to much frickin money for a car thats making all these fricking sounds! its a sports car for PhuGK sake!! it should sound and BE soild!! and..YEA I KNOW ITS AMERICAN! but..what gives!!??
Don't be a retard. You bought the best car for the money, and all of the above is pretty much normal.

6.Also i notcied TWICE that,when i was doing a turn going about 15mph and wanted to punch it out of the turn that the car felt like it shut off for a brief second, there was a exterm drop in power (as in accel,not energy) as if the car did not allow me to do such thing.. is this some kind of feature that the car has for safety?? i dont have a clue.. do you?..
This is because of the electronic throttle control and is unfortunately normal for these cars. The good thing is you get used to it and learn to use the pedal accordingly after a while. But there is a slight lag when you floor it, it also exists on the v6s. In the end it's better in the long run for your cal (less stress on parts) but it can be annoying at times.

7.i see a little RUST on the rotors on towards the outter parts around the rotors and also a spot underneath the car were the exhaust connects and meets towards the center of the car.. i told the service guy when i took my car in for an oil change and he said that it was no big deal and that it wouldnt spread...:SM127: i dont know what to think any more really.
The rotors are cast iron. This is completely normal. The suspension parts will also get surface rust on them, as well as some parts under the car. Your exhaust will get rusty too.

Again, to be expected. The body is actually pretty rust resistant.

im just really concerned it cost alot of money for this car,i mean we are in a recession!.. its not like money is growning on trees! like it use to

SO PLEASE FOLKS.. ANY INFO WILL HELP ALL OF US IN TURN AND THE PEOPLE IN THE FUTURE NOT JUST ME..CHECK YOUR CAR AND TELL ME WHATS GOING ON!
AM I REALLY THE ONLY ONE GOING THROUGH THIS? ARE THESE REALLY BIG PROBLEMS? OR AM I JUST BEING A BIG CRY BABY AND WORRING WAY TO MUCH??
Dude, seriously.

CHILL.

Enjoy the car, and don't worry about all this. If anything breaks, you got warranty.

BEAT THE CRAP out of the car, it'll take all you can give. The LX/LC platform is built like a tank. If the rust really bugs you, don't drive it in the winter, or crawl under the car and slather some POR-15 on the parts that get surface rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
40960 you know your **** huh??,are you a car person or do u work for dodge? i dont mean this in a jerk way ,cuz what your sayin makes sense,and yeah i did spazz a little,all the "american cars are crap" talk got to me by alot of people that say that,when i tell them about the car being a Dodge,..and yeah,i see now that they are just jealous in some sort of way maybe that this car is just str8 sick looking and bad ass fast too! and thanks for your 2 cents,glad to see there are people on hear that know alot..so you say it can handle a beating huh??,i have to addmit that im babying the car still at 4k miles..kinda worried to beat on it just yet,but hey might as well huh got that warrenty,and i know they wont fix shh!t if they know its from abuse..but whatever. thanks again folks!
 

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don't know that much about cars, not a mechanic or tech but im 3rd year mechanical engineering student, so i know a little bit about a lot of stuff.

with respect to babying it, i'm not saying bounce it off the rev limiter, but you need to load up the engine when it's new to get a good ring seal.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Basically, pick a high gear, put the throttle down 80% for a brief period (maybe 10 seconds) and let off the throttle, allowing the engine to slow down the car. Do this a bunch of times. make sure the engine is hot before you start though. So basically put the car in fifth and almost floor it till you get to a scary speed, then drop the car into third or 4th to let it slowly return to legal speeds.

Change your oil frequently. I changed mine at 1909km, and again at 4500km. Both times it was full of metal shavings.

back when I was reading about chevy engines (always wanted a late 70's firebird with a powerful small block chevy, never got it cuz i suck) a lot of hot rodders and shade tree mechanics were saying the same thing.

I have some advice for you too for mods:

1) Forget the intake. Not worth the money on these cars and they don't filter well.
2) Forget the Catback, it's too expensive and sometimes they don't sound good. What you can do to improve the exhaust is this: Dodge Challenger Exhaust Mods on a Budget - LRS Blog

A forum member here removed the rearmost resonators on his black r/t, and it sounds hot as hell. If i remember correctly i think he's actually a reverend. remember this because he posted a burnout video in his church parking lot!!

Best mod is Diablosport predator. I didn't want to believe it because it's very expensive (about 400) but it really works. i'm happy with it on my V6. It's even better for you Hemi/5speed guys because it improves shifting quality on those transmissions.

Anyway, enjoy the car, and don't be too gentle. keep up on your maintenance and it will be a seriously cool ride for years to come!

POST SOME PICS
 

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One thing I've recently noticed (because I've been driving it more at night lately), is the frequency and magnitude of the headlights brightening and dimming. Sometimes it's very noticeable. Has anyone else experienced this? If so have you heard what the issue is?

I'm not trying to go negative here, but if your comment is going to be something like "If it bothers you, buy a bigger alternator", then please don't comment. Because if there isn't some other issue, then the alternator and voltage regulator are inadequate and Dodge should have had an adiquate one in the design in the first place.
 

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Key Fob

I posted last week that my rt was in the shop, They can not find the problem. They replaced the parts and pcm twice and still have the same problem, No key fob. Has anyone had this problem?
 

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I have had some problems with my R/T too, but I think (hope) they are all straightened out now. The first two problems were body misalignment issues. The hood was very crooked and so was the trunk, not to mention some warped looking plastic trim pieces by the taillights (dealership didn’t fix that).

Second and third problems were attributed to the transmission. it was cutting out and acting odd sending the car into limp mode. Got an engine code and took to dealership. They had it for a day and told me it was a software error and cleared the code and uploaded new TCM files. A couple weeks went by and it happened again - went to dealership and they told me the car needed a new valve body, but the part was on backorder for about a month. 2 weeks went by and the part came in, took the car to the shop and three days or so later I had the car. Nothing has happened with the transmission yet, so i am led to believe the problem has been fixed.

The fourth problem i had was a suspension and steering response issue. The steering felt sloppy and dull compared to my brothers R/T and the front end would make odd noises going over bumps at slow speeds. Took it to the dealership and they had it all day and called and told me there was not a problem. I told them they were missing something and in so many words, the dealership tried to tell me that it was all in my mind...whatever. Knowing that there was something wrong, I took the car to a front end shop here in town and had them look at it. The shop put it up on their hunter alignment machine and found the car to be terribly out of tow and camber alignment. The shop fixed it, I paid out of my own pocket, and now the car feels great.

I have a really bad taste in my mouth over this whole situation. I can tell you this - I will never buy another car or truck from this dealership, and I may rethink Chrysler for future purchases. I love this challenger and there is no way I am getting rid of it, but unless Chrysler pulls their head out of their a$$ as far as customer service goes, I might pass...

rant off.
 

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One thing I've recently noticed (because I've been driving it more at night lately), is the frequency and magnitude of the headlights brightening and dimming. Sometimes it's very noticeable. Has anyone else experienced this? If so have you heard what the issue is?

I'm not trying to go negative here, but if your comment is going to be something like "If it bothers you, buy a bigger alternator", then please don't comment. Because if there isn't some other issue, then the alternator and voltage regulator are inadequate and Dodge should have had an adiquate one in the design in the first place.
can you explain what you mean by frequency and magnitude? do they just dim/flicker on their own or when you actuate the window motors?

The alternator puts out 160 amps. Don't know what it puts out at idle maybe the battery is low. Usually these are designed on the edge, to cut costs. If the car works, why does it bother people?
 

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I'm pretty glad I read this thread because the title had me a little concerned. I'm a new member and just started reading these things to learn about my new car. I bought my car on February 7th 2009 and have put 3000 miles on it. From the day I bought it; I've driven it like I stole it. The guy who sold it to me told me that it had been "broken in" at the factory. The car only had 1 mile on it when I first sat in it. I haven't had a single problem. I'm going to change my oil this weekend because everybody says it's so vital to do it before the recommended schedule. I signed up as a "Lifetime Member" here so you'll all get to find out which works better = coddling or spanking. (I did a smokey burnout when I left the car dealer and then a casual 120 mph down I-95 before I headed home.)
 

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Discussion Starter #54
4096.thanks again,. um just to add. i think the battery voltage is 14.9v to 13.9v.. at least thats what the car it self tells me.. (EVIC trick).. VTOD

VTODD i to felt that "limp" while driving and my MIL light came on,but then later turned off,i took it to the dealership and that said the same B.S. "everything is fine" crap.. im taking it to them again with the same issue and i will mention the valve body to THEM and see what they say,and get this.. they fricken scratched my car!!! the first time i went in for service!! believe that man!..so im going back for them to fix it!
as far as Camber issue.. the car seems to respond fine. come to think of it,it did feel alot tighter the first few weeks i had the car then it does now..hummm.. im going to have a talk with these guys..
 

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one thing i should mention, for the sake of good reporting, my brothers R/T which is about as old and has a couple thousand more miles on it, has had no problems. i think i got one of the ones that was built on a friday haha!
 

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can you explain what you mean by frequency and magnitude? do they just dim/flicker on their own or when you actuate the window motors?

The alternator puts out 160 amps. Don't know what it puts out at idle maybe the battery is low. Usually these are designed on the edge, to cut costs. If the car works, why does it bother people?
frequency = how often.

magnitude = how dim compared to normal.

They don't flicker. They go dim and then brighten up. Sometimes (but not always) it's when I'm coming to a stop ), at idle, or just driving along.

It bothers me because I like to see the road at night. This is the first car that has done it since my 68 Barracuda, and that was a bad voltage regulator.
 

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Well after a month they could not fix my RT, they had to give me a new car. So I did the next best thing and upgraded to the SRT, Its black not orange but I can get over it. If any of you have problems starting your car let them check it out. I have to say Dodge went out of there way to make me happy. JC
 

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1. A lot of cars breaks squeak. The higher preformance the breaks, the more they will squeak when used like your driving Mrs. Daisy. The engineers say try beding the breaks by doing half a dozen stops from 60 mph pulling about 0.6 g's

2. The shocks and struts are mounted in rubber. I wouldn't use WD-40 on them. A better product is RuGlide. I've found it at Pep Boys. It's used at a lot of tire shops to lubricate the tire bead and make it easier to mount and by front end shops. I've used it for 20 years as part of my regular oil change and lube. (no don't put it in your oil, just squirt it on your rubbers.) I worked at an automotive service center for a few years, twenty years ago that used it. The customers liked it and I'm sold on it.

3. Normal. Your putting a load on your electrical system with the window motor trying to turn when it can't.

4. Exhaust thump is not normal. It must have a broken or loose mount causing it to hit the body of the car. Clicking when cooling after you shut the engine off is normal.

5. Normal. The power steering pump is going to complain when you hit the steering limit hard stops.

6. Your right. The ESP (electronic stability program) will retard the throttle under several conditions...loss of traction (wheel spin), g force approaching 0.6, and vehicle direction of travel not matching steering wheel input (fish tail or broad slide) to name a few. The ESP off button does not turn the ESP completely off unless you have a SRT. The ESP off mode on a non SRT will only allow 0.8g's and 10% fishtail before kicking in to retard the throttle and apply the breaks independantly as necessary to "help" you tame your beast. ESP can be turned completely off a couple of ways, search the forum.

7. Rust on the outer edge of the rotor is normal for every car. The inner part of the rotor diameter is kept polished by your break pads unless you don't drive it for a while, then you'll see there too...on all cars.
Rust on your exhaust where it has been welded together is not uncommon. I've seen a lot of it, but I've never worked in a muffler shop.

Good ear, most people never know they have a problem with their car until it leaves them stranded. Enjoy your car.
 

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#6

If you want the car to spin, take traction control off, this will only partialy turn it off, unlike the SRT8 if you want to get the "Full Off" version, pop the push start button off with ur fingernail, then start it with the FOB. once it starts let it run for 30sec and turn it over again...this disables the brake assist, traction control and the car with the squiggly line will appear ant it goes...when ur done turn it off, pull the fob out pop the button in and it's back to normal when u start again.
 
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