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While backing out of my driveway yesterday, I heard this mysterious clicking sound. I drove to a large parking lot to see if I could replicate it. Sure enough, it happened again. Does it only in reverse, with the wheel turned full left or right. Definitely coming from the front wheels.

Any ideas before I take it to the dealer? Just turned 2050 miles. You Tube video link attached.
 

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Don't know if I've ever heard a good explanation WHY it does this but has something to do with the 2-piece rotors used on the 6-piston brakes.

Most cars do not experience this but some cars do. Some have suggested the small rotor bolts are not torqued to spec but I would not touch them. You can loosen the wheel lugnuts one at a time and then retorque to 111 lbs but other than that, not much else you can do.

Many have driven with it making the noise and never heard of any issue with that, but may want to have your dealer look at it.

And not just a Dodge problem, believe the Cadillac with the same brakes also had this issue and you may be able to find the GM TSB on this.


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I did dump the Brembo pads for Powerstops. But I doubt that's the culprit. And I was thinking about those bunch of sensors, or whatever they are, on the rotors. Are you thinking those are loose?
 

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My SRT 392 does the same thing. I believe this video has all the answers you're looking for.
Thanks dude. Any idea how often I'm going to have to do this? Weekly, yearly, once?
 

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Thanks dude. Any idea how often I'm going to have to do this? Weekly, yearly, once?
Roger,

Each time I rotate the tires, (every 6K) I clean the surface of the rotor hub and the wheel's hub. If there's rust buildup, not having a smooth clean surface won't allow everything to meet perfectly flush.
 
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2018 Billet Silver SRT 392 (1 of 2)
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Thanks dude. Any idea how often I'm going to have to do this? Weekly, yearly, once?
I believe @Hal H answered your question.

For me, it really doesn't bother me as much as I thought it would - maybe because I know the cause so there's no concern that anything is broken.
 

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one item I'm going to try on the next round is a thin layer (and very thin) of anti-seize (copper) on the face of the hub.

Since this ends up being bare metal - I figured a layer of that might inhibit any corrosion.

Back when my '16 was delivered (early build in that MY, Oct '15) the faces of the rotors were unpainted and many complained about the rust that was visible and in cases, rust stains would come out from the center caps.

I pulled the wheels and re-sprayed the faces with CRC "cold zinc" Zinc It Cold Galvanize paint. It matched the hub paint color exactly.

With my '09 for whatever reason (rains a lot in Oregon where I had that one) the wheels would get stuck on the rear hubs to where I'd have to hit the tire hard to break it loose. I would clean it and then started using the anti-seize on the hub and that prevent that from re-ocurring.

didn't have the issue with the '16 SPS, but then again, I had cleaned the rust and sprayed it with the zinc paint...
 
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Roger,

Each time I rotate the tires, (every 6K) I clean the surface of the rotor hub and the wheel's hub. If there's rust buildup, not having a smooth clean surface won't allow everything to meet perfectly flush.
The wheels were taken off once, back in September, when I swapped out the Brembo pads for Powerstops. Why would it start doing this months later? I finally hit 2000 miles over the weekend.
 

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If you only have 2000 miles on it, I would take back to the dealer and let them fix it. It should be under warranty. Better safe than sorry.
 

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The wheels were taken off once, back in September, when I swapped out the Brembo pads for Powerstops. Why would it start doing this months later? I finally hit 2000 miles over the weekend.
its been rainy weather and probably had surface corrosion build up between the wheel and face of the rotor.
 

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another thing that I do - after the wheels have been removed and reinstalled > after ~ 100 mi, I'll recheck the torque.
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since alloy wheels expand and contract with heat cycles, the lug nuts usually need to be re-tightened. After that they seem to hold the torque setting...

I've noticed this on both vehicles. One requires 130 ft.lb. and the other is 80 ft.lb. (lug bolt vs. lug nut)
 

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The wheels were taken off once, back in September, when I swapped out the Brembo pads for Powerstops. Why would it start doing this months later? I finally hit 2000 miles over the weekend.
It's just one of those crazy things, some cars do it and other guys who don't do any of this have no issues.

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Discussion Starter #15
When I had my awesome new wheels installed yesterday, I had them sand the rotor hat faces. Clicks be gone!

1019195
 

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2017 Challenger T/A 392 A8
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My TA used to do this all the time. Now that I constantly swap out the front rims (skinnys for racing then back to stocks for daily) it never happens. Something about the act of removing and reinstalling the rim resets the noise maker for about 30 days.
 
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