Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After 3.5yrs of ownership, I finally got sick of the shifter sticking in gear and overall crappy shifting. So yesterday I dropped the trans without a real plan to actually do it. And learned some lessons that hopefully will help the next guy. Especially since I can't find any real information about how to do this job. Except for a Hellcat Clutch video on Youtube. Was only real resource I could find.

Special Tools and parts
Tools:
1. E-Torx Size E-12 socket (clutch to flywheel bolts), $5 at Autozone

2. Clutch Alignment tool. AT107. 26 splines. It's only $5 + shipping. So plan ahead. Otherwise, you can find an alternative in a pinch. I used the Dorman 14523 (for Chevy 94-02 6060 trans, $2.49 at Autozone). It worked perfectly. Was 2" short, but since the pressure plate has locator pins on the flywheel, you don't need the tool to center off the pilot bearing. It can center off the pressure plate and that will in turn center the clutch.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acl-at107/overview/make/dodge/model/challenger
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-pilot-alignment-tool/dorman-clutch-pilot-alignment-tool/726141_0_0

3. lots of socket extensions. At one point I had 32" of extensions and a wobble joint. Was able to reach every bolt using various lengths. the wobble joint is a life-saver!

4. Basic Metric socket set and deepwell sockets

5. 3/8" Allen for the driveshaft bolts. It's actually a torx, but I've never seen one that big. The allen fits perfectly between the ridges, zero chance of stripping/wallowing out the bolt. And everyone should have a 3/8" allen in their toolbox right?

Parts:
1. Pilot Bearing: SKF FC69907
2. NLGI #2 Lithium Based grease. Nothing special here, basic grease.


LESSONS LEARNED!
1. Wear long sleeves. Trans tunnel has some sort of material that is filled with fiberglass. I feel like I've been installing insulation in an attic.

2. Unbolt both ends of driveshaft and remove the 2 bolts for the carrier bearing. Then slide the whole thing back about 2 feet. No need to remove from car completely.

3. You don't have to drop the exhaust. Everything comes out fine, and back in with installed. Just requires a tiny bit more finagling.

4. Remove the trans x-member AND the metal bracket attached to the trans. This lets you push trans backwards above the exhaust. Which in turn gains you enough room to clear the input shaft from clutch and bell-house.

5. AFTER you have removed the driveshaft and the trans x-member: Remove the shifter and all linkages. It's 1 nut at back of shifter (inside car), 2 bolts on shifter handle (inside car), 2 bolts for the shift linkage (under car), and 2 weird twist-lock pins (under car). Very easy to access and remove from underneath. Needs to be removed so trans has space to slide backwards above the exhaust pipe.

6. Split the trans case. I tried to do with bell-housing installed initially. That sucked. The trans tunnel is super tight. Splitting the case allowed me to get trans out in 10 minutes after 2hrs of fighting it as a whole unit.

7. When you take the hydraulic line off, get 3-4 plastic sandwich bags. Put them all over the hose end. Then zip tie. I initially did only 1. Then another, then another. Took 4 total before I finally got it to stop dripping. I'm sure there is an easier, better method. But mine is cheap and worked in a pinch so hydraulic fluid wouldn't be all over the floor.

8. Check trans fluid level while trans is sitting on the ground. And/or change it. Never will be easier. I've read a few posts about them being low from the factory. Mine was almost an entire quart low.

9. Don't manually cycle the slave cylinder...it will shoot a 6' stream of hydraulic fluid all over the garage wall. Just saying

10. Dodge put some sort of paste/grease on the input shaft. It took brake cleaner and rubbing alcohol to get off. Was extremely thick and sticky...when was present. Had to use a small tip screwdriver to remove from all the dried up gunk from all the splines. I'm a little peeved with Dodge right now about that.

11. Put that damn hydraulic line "U" clip retainer someplace safe. I spent almost 30 minutes finding mine. Somehow had knocked it underneath my toolbox about 8' away.

12. The clutch hydraulics are auto bleeding. Just pump and pump and pump and pump...then pump the clutch pedal some more. I easily did 200 pumps lol

13. And if you haven't already, go ahead and remove the clutch delay check valve. You will already have the hydraulic line off. Go ahead and use a scribe/pick and fish those 2 little rubber SOB's out of there.




She is fully assembled. Clutch is butter smooth. Shifting is 99% better. I should have done this 3.5yrs ago. Well worth the 8-10hrs. And when I need to change the clutch, I bet I can get her done in about 6hrs.


Disclaimer: All work was done on my garage floor. If you have a lift, I'm jealous and you had better be faster than me.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I couldn't wait any longer. Went out and slapped that sucker back together. Somehow my original images only partially uploaded. So here are the rest. Also will edit the original for the following.


Tools:
3/8" Allen for the driveshaft bolts. It's actually a torx, but I've never seen one that big. The allen fits perfectly between the ridges, zero chance of stripping/wallowing out the bolt. And everyone should have a 3/8" allen in their toolbox right?

Lessons Learned:
Put that damn hydraulic line "U" clip retainer someplace safe. I spent almost 30 minutes finding mine. Somehow had knocked it underneath my toolbox about 8' away.

The clutch hydraulics are auto bleeding. Just pump and pump and pump and pump...then pump the clutch pedal some more. I easily did 200 pumps lol

And if you haven't already, go ahead and remove the clutch delay check valve. You will already have the hydraulic line off. Go ahead and use a scribe/pick and fish those 2 little rubber SOB's out of there.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
So many questions!.... You said you removed the tranny while on the floor ( no lift ). Did you use two Jack stands ? How high ? Possible to change the clutch at the same time? Very interested to do this!

Thanks,
Chuck


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
took 2x4's and cut into 16" segments. then layered 2 per layer for 6 layers. 18" tall. used 4" nails and 4" screws to attach.


the wood cribbing went under front tires. for the rear I put a 6 ton jackstand under each rear pinch-weld jack location. and...I put a 2 ton jackstand under each rear a-arm.


lastly I put a jack under each front a-arm.




was rather afraid of it falling.






all in all, it sat pretty high off the ground. I was able to roll around underneath without touching anything. plenty of clearance.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,435 Posts
Also - add that the clutch to flywheel bolts are single use bolts. Shop manual calls that out.

On the coupler bolts to rear diff ('09-'14 Getrag 226mm) there are green color bolts and pink color bolts that are single use as well.

Many bolts used on modern vehicles are stretch bolts or torque-to-yield so that bolt has stretched / distorted to have the correct tightness during assembly. They'll fail or snap when trying to re-use when they're not intended to be...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,874 Posts
Also - add that the clutch to flywheel bolts are single use bolts. Shop manual calls that out.

On the coupler bolts to rear diff ('09-'14 Getrag 226mm) there are green color bolts and pink color bolts that are single use as well.

Many bolts used on modern vehicles are stretch bolts or torque-to-yield so that bolt has stretched / distorted to have the correct tightness during assembly. They'll fail or snap when trying to re-use when they're not intended to be...
Wow!!! Thank you HAL!

OP: You are my hero!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,501 Posts
So one TIP as I have had mine out 3 or 4 times
Get a pack of rubber hose caps at autozone. You can cap the line and lose barely a drop

Don’t be shy with the grease on the input shaft

Like said on the flywheel bolts I got arp and don’t have to worry about it

It isn’t fun ( I have a lift ) and even with a BROKEN IN PILOT BEARING still can be a pain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2015 Scat Pack
Joined
·
2,230 Posts
THIS article is why I peruse this site whenever I have a few minutes of free time. Great stuff!
 

·
Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
Joined
·
17,086 Posts
took 2x4's and cut into 16" segments. then layered 2 per layer for 6 layers. 18" tall. used 4" nails and 4" screws to attach.


the wood cribbing went under front tires. for the rear I put a 6 ton jackstand under each rear pinch-weld jack location. and...I put a 2 ton jackstand under each rear a-arm.


lastly I put a jack under each front a-arm.




was rather afraid of it falling.






all in all, it sat pretty high off the ground. I was able to roll around underneath without touching anything. plenty of clearance.

@Nuke would approve

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f108/wheel-ramps-636842/#post8119377

A Guy
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top