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Hi fellas,

My 2010 Challenger R/t is at ~95,000 miles and the clutch is wearing out. I took it to a local auto shop and received this estimate as reads below. The man there said there was a "70% chance" he could save the flywheel and send it out to repair for $200. If the flywheel is saveable as he suggests it would lower the estimate down about $1000 I suppose. But I was not expecting a 3,000+ dollar bill for a clutch replacement.

I come here as an inexperienced lad. Would you more wise fellows look at this estimate and advise me?

Thank you.
 

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I don’t like those odds since if it’s not satisfactory will he do the job over free, I doubt it. I’d replace the flywheel. Yes, that price sounds way high.
 

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Labor should be around $600. If you replace the OEM clutch plate, throw out bearing, pressure plate and disk assembly, you'll be just north of $1,200 or there abouts. $1,800 - $2,000 is where you should be. Go to another place, and fast.
 

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Man that is out of sight specially for a STOCK CLUTCH for that cash you could get a dbl even triple disc aftermarket installed for that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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That's higher than Dodge hellcat clutch parts. I would have asked if I was being plunked or something with a quote like that.

Call Steve White,
Slave cylinder $200
Clutch kit $500
Flywheel $450 and you probably don't need a new one.
You should also get a pilot bearing.
 

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Crazy thing is that if you need a flywheel you can get a billet one for less than stock cost, same with aluminum but I wouldn't run one of those.
 

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Tell em to at lease use Lube next time he tries to bend you over. >:)
 

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They list the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Why would these need to be replaced?

And the clutch master cylinder is also the brake master cylinder.
 

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They list the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Why would these need to be replaced?

And the clutch master cylinder is also the brake master cylinder.
The clutch master cylinder is not the same as the brake mc, they do share the same fluid.

The slave cylinder is a hydraulic throw out bearing and should be replaced anytime the clutch is done.

That shop should buy you dinner, kiss you, and use lube if they are going to screw you that hard.
 

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You can see my thread about a Holley dragon claw.

Factory clutch is less than $900 and the throw out is $200. So there is room for the price to come down. Its time consuming to do and the exhaust pipe is heavy as concrete, so $600 labor actually sounds reasonable. What your problem will be with an aluminum flywheel is getting away from a traffic light, that weight helps move a heavy car.

A single disk ramclutch will be better than stock. However I have reused flywheels for many a clutch change and never reground once. Yes; it does get a worn waved surface and heat cracks, but it does work for longer than you think.
 

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I am also preparing for clutch replacement this year and my local trusted Dodge dealership quoted me $450 in labor if I supply the parts. There is an ebay store selling brand new take out clutches and flywheels for $350..they specialize in Jeep Hemi swaps and upgrade them so they go for sale. Between that and throw out bearing/ bolts etc..the swap could be done for under $1000. I already bought my clutch and flywheel for $350 and they are literally brand new. Also through a mix up with shipping I have an extra brand new flywheel I am willing to sell you cheap..PM me.
 

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I am also preparing for clutch replacement this year and my local trusted Dodge dealership quoted me $450 in labor if I supply the parts. There is an ebay store selling brand new take out clutches and flywheels for $350..they specialize in Jeep Hemi swaps and upgrade them so they go for sale. Between that and throw out bearing/ bolts etc..the swap could be done for under $1000. I already bought my clutch and flywheel for $350 and they are literally brand new. Also through a mix up with shipping I have an extra brand new flywheel I am willing to sell you cheap..PM me.
Hopefully your local Dodge dealership is more honest than my local Kia dealership was about owner supplied parts. Long story short, my daughter's 2004 Kia Rio had a water pump leaking. The dealer said that I could supply the parts and they would do the labor for a fair price. I bought a kit on ebay that had the water pump, timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pully as well as some cam and crank seals. I decided to have all of that other stuff replaced because it all had to come off to get to the water pump and it's all a maintenance item on this engine.

I didn't want the seals replaced because they were not leaking but the dealer replaced them anyway which upped the labor quote quite a bit which pissed me off and I had to fight with them about that.

A couple of weeks after getting the car back, it started leaking oil like crazy. I took it back to the dealer and the end result was that one of the seals that I provided that they were not supposed to even install, was leaking and that they were not going to cover any of the labor to fix this because I provided the seals. They quoted me over $1,000 to fix it. I told them to kiss my ass. I had already paid them $600 for the stuff they had already done.

The car was still leaking oil when my daughter blew the motor because she ran it out of antifreeze and over heated it. The moral of the story for me is that I will never supply parts for a high dollar repair again.
 

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Hopefully your local Dodge dealership is more honest than my local Kia dealership was about owner supplied parts. Long story short, my daughter's 2004 Kia Rio had a water pump leaking. The dealer said that I could supply the parts and they would do the labor for a fair price. I bought a kit on ebay that had the water pump, timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pully as well as some cam and crank seals. I decided to have all of that other stuff replaced because it all had to come off to get to the water pump and it's all a maintenance item on this engine.

I didn't want the seals replaced because they were not leaking but the dealer replaced them anyway which upped the labor quote quite a bit which pissed me off and I had to fight with them about that.

A couple of weeks after getting the car back, it started leaking oil like crazy. I took it back to the dealer and the end result was that one of the seals that I provided that they were not supposed to even install, was leaking and that they were not going to cover any of the labor to fix this because I provided the seals. They quoted me over $1,000 to fix it. I told them to kiss my ass. I had already paid them $600 for the stuff they had already done.

The car was still leaking oil when my daughter blew the motor because she ran it out of antifreeze and over heated it. The moral of the story for me is that I will never supply parts for a high dollar repair again.
Sure sounds like one bad experience! I actually called both Dodge dealerships in my town and they both had the exact price of $450 or $460..they seemed to refer to an established time chart of how long a clutch replacement job should take and multiply it by their hourly rate.
 

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Sure sounds like one bad experience! I actually called both Dodge dealerships in my town and they both had the exact price of $450 or $460..they seemed to refer to an established time chart of how long a clutch replacement job should take and multiply it by their hourly rate.
The Kia dealer actually had the best price on labor which originally was supposed to be about $385. After they installed the seals that I didn't authorize them to install, the price of the labor was around $1,000. After arguing with them and telling them just because the seals came with the kit, that didn't give them authorization to install them without contacting me first. They finally dropped the price down to $600 in labor.

I just hope for your sake that after your repair is done, that everything works as it should and that you don't have any problems with the clutch or any vibration issues that could be blamed on the supplied parts. You might ask them what happens in a case like that. Will they cover labor or will you be on the hook for it.

The Kia dealer told me that if I had used their parts, they would have covered all of the labor to fix the oil leak. Needless to say, that whole experience was a learning experience for me and I will be very careful on what kind of repair I will supply parts for if I don't do the work myself.
 

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Does anybody know if there is a single disc (11" or 12") diaphragm type clutch kit available yet??? I'm just not impressed with all the moving stuff on the dual disc set up. A 11.5" clutch held up in my Charger 452 c.i. big block, 4 speed, 3.23 posi just fine.
 
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