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Discussion Starter #1
I am pretty close to purchasing a set of coilovers for my 12 RT classic. If money were no issue I would buy the KW V2s but they are a pretty penny. Because money IS an issue, I am most likely going to go with ST coilovers. I've read the in detail write ups about coilover installs & it doesn't seem like rocket science but it definitely is not my area of experience/expertise.

Is this something someone with very average mechanical skills can complete with confidence? I saw in one post that you need ramps to do this install. Have yall found that to be the case? Any reviews & thoughts about your coilovers are appreciated

Additional info: it is my DD so it couldn't be a weeklong project


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We highly recommend ST's and have lots of happy customers running them, for street use and light track duty they are a great choice.
The install is certainly something that can be done yourself with time and patience.if you don't have access to a lift you will need Jack stands, ramps won't help a lot as the wheels have to be removed to do the install. The fronts are easier than the rears as there is less to remove. You will need standard tools ie sockets etc. Impact gun will help in a few areas. You will need a torque wrench. Also a pitman arm puller for the front ball joint.

In the rear you need to do a bit more in terms of unolting control arms etc to get the springs in and out. Of course you will want to take it to get aligned ASAP when you are done,
 

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I have BC Racing Coilovers.

The install process is the same for all coilovers on the LX/LC/LA Platforms. Like SRT8U mentioned, the fronts are the easiest while the rear requires more breakdown.

The BC's have a huge adjustment range. If one corner is to stiff I can pull over and adjust the dampening within 30 sec for each corner. The ride height adjustability I would have to say the BC's shine here. The BC's you can have it slammed or raised and not affect the travel of the suspension. The BCs will keep the same distance from your bump stop regardless of height. The coilover body is threaded and the spring purch itself is not adjusted up or down.

Ride comfort, like I said is adjustable on the fly. You can adjust the dampening to soft as a cloud or hard/stiff as riding on ceder blocks and anything in between. I would recommend getting the rear adjustment extensions to make it more easier to adjust the rear. You will have to cut a small hole in your rear carpet for it to snake through.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Let me ask you this, why would I need adjustable control arms if the camber can be corrected with the appropriate bushings?


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I did my BCR's in the driveway with 2 floor jacks and stands. The second floor jack was for lowering the rear arms and getting them back up cleanly. Took roughly 5 hours and I have air tools.
 

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I had STs for 9 years on my Charger. Loved them. Never failed me and looked and rode perfectly. I now have KWs on my Challenger and am loving them so far as well! Install isn't too bad as long as you have a basic knowledge of what needs to be done. A helping hand speeds things up. I have done a few installs / adjustments and first time will be a day project, now I can crank them out in about 3/4 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did either of you get adjustable control arms or bushings to fix the camber after the install?
 

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No adjustable camber bushing or upper arm on the 300C. I'm dropped (about 1.5") to zero gap between the tire and fender lip and I can see that my camber is off but I'm going to live with it. I really like the way my 2 ton boat handles now. Much better than the Challenger which we'll do next year.
 

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Did either of you get adjustable control arms or bushings to fix the camber after the install?
When I first put the BC's on my 392, my alignment didn't change much. The 392's came stock with a degree and a half of negative camber in the front and half a degree of negative camber in the rear. After I lowered it the front had little more negative camber over stock and same with the rear. Actually I never got an alignment for a year after I put them on.

If you want to fine tune the camber even more than the stock settings, get adjustable front and rear control arms. But, initially you do not need them.
 

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I went with ST Coilovers as well. I've had them on the car about 4 months now. So far I really like them. I went with Front Adj control arms from SPC to correct my camber issues If you go more than 1.5 in the front it moves out alot. I'm about 2 inch in the front and 1.7 in the rear. The rear was out slighly but opted for an SRT camber adjustment for the rear. SO if you dont go more then 1.5 your fine...more you will need them for sure. I'm glad i have the ability to adjust the camber. I also went with the peddlers bump steer kit to minimize the effect lowering has to the steering. Glad I did, everything ties together and the result is precise cornering and steering with a nice not harsh ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the replies. Just an update, I know I said cost was an issue, but I wanted the peace of mind of having a coilover backed by a lifetime warranty & adjustable damping...so I went with the KW V2s. Looking to drop it two inches so eventually I'll probably get those adjustable control arms from speedlogix 😁


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Discussion Starter #12
I tried installing them this weekend, but could not get the KW spring compressed enough to fit the strut up in the front cool to get the top hot thingy(idk what it's called, the piece that sits on top of the spring to keep it compressed) on. The spring compressor arms kept hitting the strut when we tried compressing it, so we couldn't get the top piece on. It was a mess. Now I'm going to pay someone to do the install. Wish I had known it was going to be that difficult


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I tried installing them this weekend, but could not get the KW spring compressed enough to fit the strut up in the front cool to get the top hot thingy(idk what it's called, the piece that sits on top of the spring to keep it compressed) on. The spring compressor arms kept hitting the strut when we tried compressing it, so we couldn't get the top piece on. It was a mess. Now I'm going to pay someone to do the install. Wish I had known it was going to be that difficult
I may have interpreted what you have said wrong, so bare with me -- and correct me if I'm wrong.

Once you have the stock strut assembly out, the KW's should just slide in there. You should not have to compress the KW's spring to install it. I'm not familiar with the length of the KW's but for the BC's, first, I removed the stock strut assembly then installed the BCs (Which were way shorter then the stock strut assembly). With them being short that allowed me to just slide them in between the upper control arm with no issues. then I semi tightened the top three bolts to hold it in place and then lifted the wheel assembly until it lined up with the bottom of the shock. Once that bolt was tighten then I tightened the sway bar end link then tightened the three bolt on the upper strut.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah you heard it right.

Now if I'm not the mistaken, don't the BC's come compressed with the top hat already on it? The KWs don't so I was trying to get mine to go from this to this ImageUploadedByAG Free1435712313.643410.jpg ImageUploadedByAG Free1435712326.789702.jpg


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Yep, BC's come already pre-assembled.



Was trying to save you a few $$ on installation but this is where my knowledge is limited.

Make sure the shop has experience in installing KW (or similar) hardware.
 

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With my kw springs (not the coil over u have) I didn't use the spring compressor at all. I put the top hat on and the small week spring allowed me to push the hat all the way down to start the nut on the shaft.
 

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I may have interpreted what you have said wrong, so bare with me -- and correct me if I'm wrong.

Once you have the stock strut assembly out, the KW's should just slide in there. You should not have to compress the KW's spring to install it. I'm not familiar with the length of the KW's but for the BC's, first, I removed the stock strut assembly then installed the BCs (Which were way shorter then the stock strut assembly). With them being short that allowed me to just slide them in between the upper control arm with no issues. then I semi tightened the top three bolts to hold it in place and then lifted the wheel assembly until it lined up with the bottom of the shock. Once that bolt was tighten then I tightened the sway bar end link then tightened the three bolt on the upper strut.
so what all was needed to actually install your bc coilovers? because im actually going to buy those .. and a friend of mine said i would have to get front adjustable camber arms .. and rear adjustable camber and toe arms. can you give me some insight ? i have a 2011 challenger srt
 
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