Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ive got an 2009 SE. When slowly coming to a stop or stepping onto the brake with the car running, but not moving, my rear drivers side brake is making a creaking sound, more so when I keep pressing hard on the brake pedal. The driver side rear rotor looks like its needs to be changed but the pads are fine. Is this a case of the caliper needing to be lubricated, serviced etc?

I'm also getting pulsating brakes when stopping hard. I know that could be warped rotors but all 3 other rotors and pads look fine.

Before I bring it in to my local shop or check it out myself, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,593 Posts
Ive got an 2009 SE. When slowly coming to a stop or stepping onto the brake with the car running, but not moving, my rear drivers side brake is making a creaking sound, more so when I keep pressing hard on the brake pedal. The driver side rear rotor looks like its needs to be changed but the pads are fine. Is this a case of the caliper needing to be lubricated, serviced etc?

I'm also getting pulsating brakes when stopping hard. I know that could be warped rotors but all 3 other rotors and pads look fine.

Before I bring it in to my local shop or check it out myself, thanks.
Noise from brake hardware when applying the brakes with the car stationary is probably due to the the pads (backing plate) rubbing/sliding against the hardware meant to hold them in place. Age, exposure to the elements and a good coating of brake dust contribute to this.

What about the appearance of the rotor makes you think it needs to be changed? I go by the lip that forms around the rotor's outside (and inside) edge. A 1mm high lip -- at least with my other cars which had a 2mm rotor wear limit -- was a sign the rotors were worn out. Worn out enough to justify replacement.

Discoloration or heavy scoring, cracks, are other signs of a rotor at the end of its life. But discoloration can be a sign of a dragging pad which can arise from a bad brake piston.

However, most of the time when I did the brakes I'd replace the pads -- which "signaled" they were due to be replaced by a pad wear sensor lighting a warning light on the dash -- and the rotors. The pads invariably wore out first. The exception was when in at least one case I replaced the worn out pads but left the rotors in service because I measured them and they had some lift left.

Regardless someone is going to have to take a close look at the brakes. The brake that is making the noise needs particular attention. If it turns out new brake hardware is needed, new rotor and I'd replace the pads too and other hardware for good measure leaving as little to chance as possible, the other side should get the same treatment.

Afterwards a brake hydraulic system flush/bleed is called for.

Given there is more going on than the brake hardware needing replacement due to just normal wear and tear this is probably a case in which the car needs to be taken to a good shop familiar with these cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Not much of an update but today I took off both rear calipers, lubed/cleaned pads, hardware and caliper pins. I pushed the pistons back in as well. Went for a drive and the creaking sound coming to a stop seems to be gone. However I'm getting uneven pad wear on my passenger side rear.

This is my first time servicing my own brakes, any tips on how to get the caliper bracket bolts loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,593 Posts
Not much of an update but today I took off both rear calipers, lubed/cleaned pads, hardware and caliper pins. I pushed the pistons back in as well. Went for a drive and the creaking sound coming to a stop seems to be gone. However I'm getting uneven pad wear on my passenger side rear.

This is my first time servicing my own brakes, any tips on how to get the caliper bracket bolts loose?
If the pad wear is uneven between the wheels on the same axle, this can be a sign of sticking brake caliper piston or for some reason one brake is doing more of the braking. In this case the car might want to pull to one side when braking.

Caliper bolts can be hard to remove. They are exposed to the elements. You can apply some Liquid Wrench and let this work. Make an application of this several times over as much time as you can wait for this to work. The longer the better.

Also, I have taken a punch and a hammer and with the punch on the bolt head given it a couple of good smacks with the hammer. In this case the bolt was an Allen head bolt. A hex bolt if there is room/clearance you can hit the bolt head with a hammer. A couple of times. This can "break" the bolt loose from the grip of corrosion so it can then be loosened. It can also open up the clearance between the bolt and the caliper and allow more Liquid Wrench to seep down.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top