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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Ordered! Gonna give this a whirl. Either build it or blow it up. :LOL:
Ah, I should have told you to get it from Steve White and use their CHA1 discount code. At least you can save a bit on the springs. You will need a spring compressor tool and the harmonic damper puller...both should be listed in my thread. Let me know if you get stuck on anything. Good luck!
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Thanks. I will probably be asking you for help later when I get all parts ready to install. Since I am not going FI and looking to stay NA for quite a while, I'm hoping this cam and header, exhaust upgrade will be sufficient for a while.
 

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2013 RT Classic
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537 Posts
Thanks. I will probably be asking you for help later when I get all parts ready to install. Since I am not going FI and looking to stay NA for quite a while, I'm hoping this cam and header, exhaust upgrade will be sufficient for a while.
A little while anyway LOL!
I went with a supercharger and am getting 500 HP and Torque AT THE WHEEL and it feels tame so I am looking for a big time engine build but then you need to add in a new trans, drive shaft, axles .... on and on LOL!
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
A little while anyway LOL!
I went with a supercharger and am getting 500 HP and Torque AT THE WHEEL and it feels tame so I am looking for a big time engine build but then you need to add in a new trans, drive shaft, axles .... on and on LOL!
500 HP is my goal but that is way down the line. I don't need to go super fast anymore, just want my girl to have more power. Right now I'm just looking to go at it slowly and learn as much as I can. However, I will eventually go with a supercharger or turbo, haven't decided as of yet. My buddy has a SS Camaro that pushes 750HP and he is trying to convince me to buy two turbos and just be done with it, but I'm more of a supercharger kind of guy.

I will say this forum has helped me tremendously in research and helpful tips, glad I found it.
 

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2015 SRT 392
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2,810 Posts
My thoughts are that if you're going for power on these cars, FI (Forced Induction) is the way to go, but if you want just a bit more power and that Beautiful Muscular, I want to punch someone in the face sound, a cam is the way to go! These car's with rumpity cams sound so darned good!

This is just a suggestion but if you're thinking about adding a blower later, while you have the front part of the engine off, you might think about pinning your crank. It'll save you from doing it later, if you go that route.

If you go with a turbo setup, it won't hurt anything if it's done and you don't need it.
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited by Moderator)
Update: Cam from Steve White showed up! super excited about that. no to buy the springs. As far as the valve compression tool, is there a certain one I should be looking for, or are they all the same fitment? Also, since I'll have the engine opened up what pushrods do y'all recommend?

Ah, I should have told you to get it from Steve White and use their CHA1 discount code. At least you can save a bit on the springs. You will need a spring compressor tool and the harmonic damper puller...both should be listed in my thread. Let me know if you get stuck on anything. Good luck!
Got the camshaft today!

996597
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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6,543 Posts
Update: Cam from Steve White showed up! super excited about that. no to buy the springs. As far as the valve compression tool, is there a certain one I should be looking for, or are they all the same fitment? Also, since I'll have the engine opened up what pushrods do y'all recommend?
i don’t know if it was here or the ChargerForums site (or was it LXForums?), but just saw someone was selling a valve spring compression tool for these Hemi valve springs. Do a search in the classified sections of those forums and see if it’s still for sale.
 

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2015 SRT 392
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2,810 Posts
Update: Cam from Steve White showed up! super excited about that. no to buy the springs. As far as the valve compression tool, is there a certain one I should be looking for, or are they all the same fitment? Also, since I'll have the engine opened up what pushrods do y'all recommend?



Got the camshaft today!

View attachment 996597
This is just a suggestion, but you might want to erase or cover up your address info on the box just for security sake.
 

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Super Moderator
2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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17,912 Posts
I already did before I saw your post Freddy, but good looking out for him ;)

A Guy
 
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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Opps my bad. I apologize for that. I will be more mindful in the future. Thanks for looking out.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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17,912 Posts
No need to apologize, it's not forbidden, just had your personal info and address on it. You know the crazies we have on this forum :p

A Guy
 

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9,426 Posts
Isn’t it sad that people even have to think that some nut would go bother someone posting anything? In the old days someone would be offering to help him do the job and make a new friend.
I look forward to some video clips so I can hear that cam.
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Isn’t it sad that people even have to think that some nut would go bother someone posting anything? In the old days someone would be offering to help him do the job and make a new friend.
I look forward to some video clips so I can hear that cam.
Sad, yes. But it is the world today. I should have been more mindful. :cautious: I'll definitely be taking videos. Just gotta wait till the rest of the parts come in and my boys get some time off to help. Hopefully, the swap will be soon.

On a side note: After swapping the cam and springs, and the long tubes I plan to add on. I know I need a tune, but will it kill the car if I wait for a tune to happen, like say a week or so? I'm not looking to drive cross country without a tune, and I am aware I WILL need one, but the shops here are either on limited hours or I have to drive over an hour away. and I am concerned that if I drive it.....it will blow up!o_Oo_Oo_O
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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7,997 Posts
If you can't find a used spring compressor tool there is this one I used.


Although I think this one from crane gives more clearance so you can get your finger in to install the keepers.


Don't forget to get a compression tester hose so you can blow compressed air in the cylinder...oh and the harmonic damper install/removal tool.

For pushrods I used these:
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
If you can't find a used spring compressor tool there is this one I used.


Although I think this one from crane gives more clearance so you can get your finger in to install the keepers.


Don't forget to get a compression tester hose so you can blow compressed air in the cylinder...oh and the harmonic damper install/removal tool.

For pushrods I used these:
Why am I awake at 0600 looking up push rods for my car?! Anywho, Thank you for the post I read it and am still a little fuzzy on some of the things stated. However, I did some looking and found Hi-Tech .080 which I am hoping fits the criteria you stated in your post. Take a look and let me know.

As for the compression tester hose and the use for that. I have watched videos as well as one I believe you posted, can't remember, I have watched a lot of them. Is this a must or a recommendation? what is the purpose of the compression tester? not trying to be a naysay, I'm new to the building a car game and actually want to know. I'm gonna do some research on that one but if you have a quick answer I'd be glad to hear it. Thanks for all your help so far as well as Freddy G, Nuke, A Guy, Yellow Jacket, and all else who have replied. I really do appreciate the guidance.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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The compression tester hose is used to apply compressed gas in the cylinder to keep the valve from dropping as you compress the spring to remove the keepers. Without it the valve would just open as you compress the spring. BTW you need to tap the valve spring retainers so the keeper unseat a little, otherwise even with the compressed air the valve will move as the spring is compressed.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Personally I would stick with the 0.08" wall. Thicker wall means larger diameter pushrod (may need to make sure they clear the holes in the heads) which translates to stronger but also more mass. Really no need for thicker wall on 6.2/6.4 cam as lift is not crazy. Don't forget the 5.7/6.2/6.4 all use the same OEM pushrod.
 

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2014 R/T Blacktop
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
ok. Thanks. I thought that the "wall" meant thickness but didn't find a definition anywhere I have been researching on it. I think I'll go with the .080 Manely pushrods. Thanks again for all the help. Someone is getting a Christmas gift basket this year!!!
 

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2010 R/T Classic 6M
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459 Posts
ok. Thanks. I thought that the "wall" meant thickness but didn't find a definition anywhere I have been researching on it. I think I'll go with the .080 Manely pushrods. Thanks again for all the help. Someone is getting a Christmas gift basket this year!!!
I used the Manley pushrods for my 392 cam. They were the cheapest I could find and great quality. The valve spring tool I used was from hemitools. Most of the install is pretty straightforward but a tip for putting the crank balancer on without the installation tool, get it HOT with a heat gun and it should slide right on, enough so that you can use the crank bolt to tighten it all the way.
 
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