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2014 R/T Blacktop
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Discussion Starter #101
Russell, removing the front fascia is really not that difficult. Here is a thread I did on how to remove it a while back. Granted it is for a +2015 but should not be much different for a pre-2015. I must have had the front fascia off half a dozen times since then and the rear fascia once. :)

On a side note, if you have a plastic timing chain guide (not the tensioner) I strongly recommend you replace it with the aluminum/plastic version. In fact, my 2015 came with the upgraded guide. I
I will take a look today and post a picture of what I see. Can I see it from the front with out the engine unbuttoned?
 

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I will take a look today and post a picture of what I see. Can I see it from the front with out the engine unbuttoned?
There is one bolt that is buried in the front fascia. If you remove the front and engine splash guards you will be able to see it from under the car. There are vids where guys use a long extension and go thru the wheel well but I just use a 10mm deep well and a tiny 1/4 ratchet (ratcheting box end wrench that swivels works too) and get to it from the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
There is one bolt that is buried in the front fascia. If you remove the front and engine splash guards you will be able to see it from under the car. There are vids where guys use a long extension and go thru the wheel well but I just use a 10mm deep well and a tiny 1/4 ratchet (ratcheting box end wrench that swivels works too) and get to it from the bottom.
I'm sorry, I failed to mention what I was referring to. I was referring to the plastic tensioner guide. That's on the inside of the engine right? I'd have to pull the engine apart to be able to identify which one (plastics or aluminum) I have? I'm only assuming. I went out and looked in the engine bay and could not find anything that looked like it on the outside.
 

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I'm sorry, I failed to mention what I was referring to. I was referring to the plastic tensioner guide. That's on the inside of the engine right? I'd have to pull the engine apart to be able to identify which one (plastics or aluminum) I have? I'm only assuming. I went out and looked in the engine bay and could not find anything that looked like it on the outside.
You have to pull off your timing cover to see your timing chain, chain tensioner, and chain guides.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
OK. I will add that to the long list of things to look at once I get it opened up.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I may just look into replacing it just to be on the safe side.
 

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I may just look into replacing it just to be on the safe side.
Russell, I remember my problem. I did my install with my front facia on. I held my compressor hanging to the side like @ChallyTatum stated. But I could not get the camshaft in without unbolting my condenser. That's when I evacuated my a/c system. I remember juuust having room to get the cam in once the condenser was out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
And if your car has 50,000+ miles i would definitely consider new lifters. Every shop I called recommended I got new lifters even though i have a 6 speed just because you don't wanna risk flattening a lobe on you're brand new cam from old lifters. Besides it's easier doing the springs with the heads off. It'll cost you about $500 more after the price of gaskets, bolts and lifters.
I was looking at these lifters. I also looked at Johnson lifters, but unfortunately, I'm not rich. Comp Cams Non-MDS Lifters w/Yokes for Dodge Gen III HEMI (5.7L, 6.1L, 6.2L, 6.4L HEMI) - 856Y-16

thoughts?
 
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