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Discussion Starter #1
Bought my '11 SE new in 9/11. Had the alternator die before it was ever recalled (got reimbursed after the recall), and have had it about 4 years now. Now that one died and left me stranded last weekend. New one is $700 plus labor. Died on me out of town, so need the dealer I got it towed to to change it.

Anyone else have more issues? I should not be on my third alternator before year 6. Only had Dodges all my life, but this one has me kind of mad. No excuse for that in a modern car. Any options for me on the recall thing?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I had a 2011 TO SE for a few years too, but luckily never had to deal with that alternator problem before I had to sell it. I got > 80K miles out of the OE one, so I guess I was just lucky.

I never read up on what the underlying cause is supposed to be, does anyone know for sure what's causing them to crap out?

Bad wiring, faulty connection, underpowered components? Surely they've investigated the root cause by now, if you can research it and find out what is causing it, maybe you can come up with your own 'work-around' or pseudo-fix to keep it from happening again.

Warranty fixes are great until the free fixes start to cost too much in personal time and hassle, and it sounds like you're just about at that tipping point. Maybe time to try to fix it yourself somehow to keep from being subjected to further hassles of more free fixes, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nothing can be done really, it is a problem with the alternator itself. With all the pentastar engines out there, don't ask me how they can have a design problem with the alternator, but it is a piece of crap for some reason
 

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I had a 2011 TO SE for a few years too, but luckily never had to deal with that alternator problem before I had to sell it. I got > 80K miles out of the OE one, so I guess I was just lucky.

I never read up on what the underlying cause is supposed to be, does anyone know for sure what's causing them to crap out?

Bad wiring, faulty connection, underpowered components? Surely they've investigated the root cause by now, if you can research it and find out what is causing it, maybe you can come up with your own 'work-around' or pseudo-fix to keep it from happening again.

Warranty fixes are great until the free fixes start to cost too much in personal time and hassle, and it sounds like you're just about at that tipping point. Maybe time to try to fix it yourself somehow to keep from being subjected to further hassles of more free fixes, right?
The diodes were under-rated for the loads they would have present during operation and the diodes overheat and fail.
Seems that the EH p/s system pulls a fair amount of current, along with the other accessories (rear defogger, heated seats, etc). Only turned up with V6 models, so the V8 versions (5.7) must have used a different alternator.

for example 392 / 6.4 models run 220A alternators, IIRC V6 are 160A and 5.7 are 180A units.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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The diodes were under-rated for the loads they would have present during operation and the diodes overheat and fail.
Seems that the EH p/s system pulls a fair amount of current, along with the other accessories (rear defogger, heated seats, etc). Only turned up with V6 models, so the V8 versions (5.7) must have used a different alternator.

for example 392 / 6.4 models run 220A alternators, IIRC V6 are 160A and 5.7 are 180A units.
If that's the case, I can tell you right now what I would do to prevent it from happening to me again - procure myself an R/T alt and skip all the future warranty hassles! :5:
 

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2013 Challenger SXT
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New alt runs 398 bucks and takes about 30 minutes to remove and install, a good do it yourself fix. Much cheaper then the stealerships.

Should have had some warning the alt was going out, no charge light something, the car will run for some time just on battery alone. Shouldn't have left you stranded anywhere if you was aware of your surroundings, in my 30 years plus of driving and many alternator failures none of them ever left me stranded even with sparks flying out of the alternator, was still able to get to a place so I could change it out, even on vacation in the heat of Texas, alternator went out, shut down all power sucking equipment, just enough to drive and stop at first parts store I found about 45 minutes later and bought new tools and another alternator and changed it out in the parking lot. Just saying.

You got four years out of an alternator, not to bad, some of the alternators only last a year, rebuilt, some new ones same, sometimes they last 20 years, just varies, no hard set rule on how many years one will last.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the initial diagnosis of a bad alternator was wrong. They said there was a ground strap that was disconnected. No idea how that could be - not broken, disconnected. The only work ever done was the alternator change 4 years ago. Could they have not connected it and it ran fine for 4 years? No idea, but I'm glad it isn't as bad as i thought.
 
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