Dodge Challenger Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

62000 miles on my 17' RT.
Has Eibach pro kit springs, running demon reps with 275/305s. Suspension is otherwise stock.

When I took my summers off there was some noticeable wear on the inside of my passenger front tire. Front control arms/bushings showing some wear.

Chally handles fine, no vibration or knocks when turning, not so sure about my struts - stock RTs at 62k miles.

Should I do adjustable control arms? Should I do struts at the same time? (Bilsteins maybe...or go full coil?)
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
9,433 Posts
Hi,

62000 kms on my 17' RT.
Has Eibach pro kit springs, running demon reps with 275/305s. Suspension is otherwise stock.

When I took my summers off there was some noticeable wear on the inside of my passenger front tire. Front control arms/bushings showing some wear.

Chally handles fine, no vibration or knocks when turning, not so sure about my struts - stock RTs at 62k miles.

Should I do adjustable control arms? Should I do struts at the same time? (Bilsteins maybe...or go full coil?)
Just have the front end aligned first. That will help with the u even wear and also give you an indication of whether or not any extra hardware will be needed to further dial in the alignment.

With the Prolines, you should not have to buy any special hardware to install before an alignment can be completed. The Sports are a different story, but the Pros should be good to go with the OE setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey, edited my post put KMs instead of miles. 62k miles. Control arm showing wear at this stage prob makes more sense than if that was kms.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
9,433 Posts
When were the springs installed (how many km/miles have they been on it)?

Which control arms are showing wear? What kind of wear?

Did the car originally come with the Touring suspension (no special upgraded packages)?

Has the car ever been put on an alignment rack and properly aligned, and if so, how many km/miles since that was done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
15k miles on springs

Passenger side control arm showing small amounts of wear as well as both bushings. Not very noticeable yet.

Suspension was stock otherwise. No track pack etc.

Last aligned 15k miles ago, and then just now when I found the inside passenger tire wear.
 

·
Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
Joined
·
9,433 Posts
15k miles on springs

Passenger side control arm showing small amounts of wear as well as both bushings. Not very noticeable yet.

Suspension was stock otherwise. No track pack etc.

Last aligned 15k miles ago, and then just now when I found the inside passenger tire wear.
Well, I’ll tell you that Touring suspension is Grade A crap for a vehicle as heavy as these cars are.

This can show itself in many ways, especially with the installation of a set of lowering springs. They can exacerbate some of the components’ wear, like the control arm bushings being an example here, and make it seem like lowering springs are a bad idea.

In reality there are many other variables to consider. Driving habits, local climate, road conditions, maintenance habits - all will affect how the other parts behave and wear when a set of lowering springs is installed. Everyone’s case is different, best not to make assumptions based on other vehicles.

I have run Mopar Stage 1s, OE Touring springs w/ coils cut off, and Eibach Sportlines in my Challengers and Chargers, and there are a few things I can say for certain apply to anyone else’s situation with these LX cars and lowering springs:

- replacing the stock shocks and struts (especially if the Touring kind) at the time of spring install is not required but is a good idea.

Install a set of high quality dampers like the Bilsteins, and it will really help make the lowered stance less jouncy over potholes, more responsive in the curves and during ABS activation, and reduce uneven/erratic tire wear as the miles add up.

- having the front end properly aligned by a competent shop is also not required but is a really good idea. That’s the only way to know for sure if the car will need extra suspension parts to get rolling straight. Most don’t need them, some do. If you do and run without the extra parts, tire wear and component wear will happen sooner and accelerate as the miles add up, so it’s a bad idea to ignore**.

- not all LX cars were created equal, and so not all lowering spring installs will yield in the same results. Asking others for advice or opinions is obviously helpful for these issues, but when it comes to these cars and lowering springs, take everything everyone says on this subject with a grain of salt. Your car is different and will have its own quirks and behaviors once lowered.

Nuke


** - I stand behind that statement, but in the interest of full disclosure, I’ve ignored such things and have gotten by fine. I don’t recommend that approach to front end suspension issues, but like I said, every car is different and will handle the same mods differently.

As for what I ignored and survived anyway, well, I too had tires hat would wear out the inner 1-2” of tread well before the rear of the tread after putting the Sportlines on my 2012. The rest of the suspension was already worn out (200K miles), so an alignment wasn’t going to be easy, cheap, or fun. So I just started running the front tires at 43 PSI all the time instead of their recommended 35 PSI. That arrested the irregular tire wear the rest of the time I had those springs on that car (approximately 15K miles IIRC)
.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlackHemi41

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
577 Posts
Per the old alignment specs for some reason the right side has more negative camber. Get some miles on those horrible soft OEM bushings and yes, wear on the inside of that tire is very understandable. Car is lowered. Has the alignment been checked? You may want to go the less expensive way to remedy it and get some new adjustable bushings up front. That will tighten it up and you can cant that wheel/tire more vertical and minimize your wear. With wear on the inside, it shows your driving habits are pretty mellow IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: A Guy

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,238 Posts
if your camber is out of range (-1.70 is the "preferred" value for negative camber) it will probably require adjustable Upper Control Arms on the front and for the rear, lower control arm bushings that have provisions for camber offsets are how that is accomplished.

these are aftermarket items, as the OEM parts don't have provisions for adjusting camber. Generally once the suspension is lowered > 1" the camber exceeds the recommended spec and inside tire wear is the sign of that
 
  • Like
Reactions: A Guy
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top