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So I’m just looking for correcting/verification for what I am doing tomorrow which Is swapping out the thermostat for a new one. I will be removing the coolant hose that is in front of the thermometer and removing and then installing the new thermostat, after I have done so I will put the coolant hose back on pop open the bleeder valve and fill the coolant tank as needed and wait for the bleeder valve to spew some coolant and then tighten it. After that I will turn the car on and let the car run for a few minutes and let the coolant tank “burp” and fill as necessary. Sound all good?
Thanks guys ! Any advice is much appreciated
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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According to FSM/Chilton the correct way is to use a air evacuation setup. I usually have the car on ramps, slowly fill the resvoir with the plug removed from the water pump (6.4 have a hose fitting) until coolant leaks out. BTW when installing the new thermostat make sure the purge valve is clocked at 12.

Per service manual:

"Evacuating or purging air from the cooling system involves the use of a pressurized air operated vacuum generator. The vacuum created allows for a quick and complete coolant refilling while removing any airlocks present in the system components."

 

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2016 R/T Scat Pack
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I had to replace two thermostats in my 2010 R/T over the course of 163k miles. You don't even have to remove the upper hose. Remove two bolts, swap the stat, replace the bolts. Fill the reservoir a little over the hot full mark full and go drive until fully warmed up. Check the level hot and after full cool down. I never had an issue. You only lose what's in the upper hose.
 

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if you have the threaded plug (5.7s and pre '15 392s) you remove it - fill until coolant comes out, install plug.

continue to fill the reservoir to full cold.

Run engine to operating temperature, road test to make sure normal cooling system operation. Add fluid to reach "Full Hot" level.

On '15+ 392s you have to remove the oil cooler coolant line from the front of the pump to bleed air while filling the system and the rest of the steps are the same.

Omitting that step can cause cavitation and the impeller will not be able to move the liquid coolant - this results in an overheat situation since coolant won't flow if there's an air pocket / cavitation going on. This is common mistake made when re-filling the coolant
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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So I’m just looking for correcting/verification for what I am doing tomorrow which Is swapping out the thermostat for a new one. I will be removing the coolant hose that is in front of the thermometer and removing and then installing the new thermostat, after I have done so I will put the coolant hose back on pop open the bleeder valve and fill the coolant tank as needed and wait for the bleeder valve to spew some coolant and then tighten it. After that I will turn the car on and let the car run for a few minutes and let the coolant tank “burp” and fill as necessary. Sound all good?
Thanks guys ! Any advice is much appreciated
Just removing that hose on the front to allow burping while filling with coolant isn’t enough to actually burp all the trapped air usually. I will hold my finger over the reservoir overflow hose and blow into the reservoir neck itself until coolant comes out of that oil cooler hose/bleeder hole. Once I get no more air and only coolant coming out there, I fill up and put the cap on the reservoir and then take a test drive.
 

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Just removing that hose on the front to allow burping while filling with coolant isn’t enough to actually burp all the trapped air usually. I will hold my finger over the reservoir overflow hose and blow into the reservoir neck itself until coolant comes out of that oil cooler hose/bleeder hole. Once I get no more air and only coolant coming out there, I fill up and put the cap on the reservoir and then take a test drive.
does the '12 - '14 Pursuit Pkg Charger (5.7) have the oil cooler coolant hose coming off the front of the water pump?

I thought they still had the t-nipple off the thermostat housing.

392's have a nipple off the front of the water pump, about at the level of where the small 1/4" pipe plug used to be on 5.7 water pumps
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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does the '12 - '14 Pursuit Pkg Charger (5.7) have the oil cooler coolant hose coming off the front of the water pump?

I thought they still had the t-nipple off the thermostat housing.

392's have a nipple off the front of the water pump, about at the level of where the small 1/4" pipe plug used to be on 5.7 water pumps
no it’s coming off the thermostat housing, same as an SRT from 2104 or older would have. There is a brass plug where the 2015+ have the oil cooler line now
 

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alright - sounds like the water pumps were updated for the newer style for either application
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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alright - sounds like the water pumps were updated for the newer style for either application
I bet they weren’t even updated, they just started using a threaded hose inlet instead of a threaded brass plug. That way everyone can use the same thermostat housing.
 

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the older style 5.7 pumps had smooth surface on the front and a small 1/4" dia steel pipe plug.

the '15+ 392 have a 1/2" or 5/8" diameter nipple threaded into the front for the oil cooler circuit hose. Here's my '16 392 water pump.

That little circle to the right is where the '14 and earlier style pumps had the small pipe plug.

Auto part Engine Brake Windshield Vehicle
 
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