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Hey everyone, been a lurker on here most of the time but having a crank no start issue with my 2012 Challenger R/T and hoping someone might know of a fix.

It has the smart proximity key, totally randomly it will start and run for 2 seconds, then the engine will shut off. If you try to restart it will just continuous crank. Only way to get it to start is to cycle the key off, open the door to kill the interior power to the accessories, then try to start again. Sometimes it might have that run for 2 seconds and then stop 2-3 times in a row and then start after a few of those key and door cycles, other times it starts fine the first time.

Sometimes this happens every day for a few weeks and then works perfect for a month or two, then the issue starts up again. Ive tried 2 different keys (separately so the car only sees one at a time) and have the same random issue. Replaced batteries in both keys, same random issue.

Anyone seen or heard of a fix for this? Thanks!
 

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Do you know someone with a decent Scanner? I would do a complete scan on the car. Most generic scanners won’t pick up body control module codes. May be a problem in the skim. Any icons on the dash when it doesn’t start? ( pic of a key, security?) I thought Chrysler disabled the starter where as GM disabled the fuel pump. Sounds almost like a fuel problem or a crank sensor. Should store a code.
 

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I pulled codes, nothing in the system but I have not tried to pull codes when its acting up. I may have written the post incorrectly after copying and pasting after logging in to post. The engine will run for 2 seconds, then shut off. Continuous crank after that unless I cycle key with door open.
 

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Hey everyone, been a lurker on here most of the time but having a crank no start issue with my 2012 Challenger R/T and hoping someone might know of a fix.

It has the smart proximity key, totally randomly it will start and run for 2 seconds, then the engine will shut off. If you try to restart it will just continuous crank. Only way to get it to start is to cycle the key off, open the door to kill the interior power to the accessories, then try to start again. Sometimes it might have that run for 2 seconds and then stop 2-3 times in a row and then start after a few of those key and door cycles, other times it starts fine the first time.

Sometimes this happens every day for a few weeks and then works perfect for a month or two, then the issue starts up again. Ive tried 2 different keys (separately so the car only sees one at a time) and have the same random issue. Replaced batteries in both keys, same random issue.

Anyone seen or heard of a fix for this? Thanks!
It sounds like you may be repairing this on your own but if you end up going to the dealer, let us know. We'd be glad to help.

Jasmine
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 

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Hey everyone, been a lurker on here most of the time but having a crank no start issue with my 2012 Challenger R/T and hoping someone might know of a fix.

It has the smart proximity key, totally randomly it will start and run for 2 seconds, then the engine will shut off. If you try to restart it will just continuous crank. Only way to get it to start is to cycle the key off, open the door to kill the interior power to the accessories, then try to start again. Sometimes it might have that run for 2 seconds and then stop 2-3 times in a row and then start after a few of those key and door cycles, other times it starts fine the first time.

Sometimes this happens every day for a few weeks and then works perfect for a month or two, then the issue starts up again. Ive tried 2 different keys (separately so the car only sees one at a time) and have the same random issue. Replaced batteries in both keys, same random issue.

Anyone seen or heard of a fix for this? Thanks!
I have a 2012 RT with same issue. Dealer said it was fuel pump and changed that. Still had same problem and they changed fuel pump relay. Still have same problem and car is back in the shop and they don’t seem to know what the issue is.
 

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I have a 2012 RT with same issue. Dealer said it was fuel pump and changed that. Still had same problem and they changed fuel pump relay. Still have same problem and car is back in the shop and they don’t seem to know what the issue is.
There are two issues. Not to put too fine a point on it but one problem is the dealer service department doesn't know what it is doing.

Replacing a fuel pump with no success then replacing the fuel pump relay, and again with no success, is the wrong direction to be going when dealing with a suspected fuel delivery problem.

From my 2nd and 1st hand experience, it is fuse, relay, then confirm the pump runs when given 12V shop power directly.

My advice would be to confirm the fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit is ok. If it is then very likely the fuel pump was ok along with relay.

If the fuse is ok the crank but no start behavior can arise from a bad crankshaft position sensor.

What may give you a clue is when the engine is cranking the tach is lifeless.

A dealer tech can view the sensor signal with proper equipment and should see a voltage square wave as the engine cranks. If he doesn't see this... probably the windshield wiper motor is bad.

J/K. Of course the crankshaft position sensor is highly suspect assuming the tech was properly connected to its output.

There can be -- rare -- a voltage level problem. While there may be enough battery voltage to crank the engine there is not enough battery voltage to energize the coils enough so when the power is cut to the coil the electrical field doesn't collapse with enough "energy" to generate a spark. This was common -- at least I encountered this -- many years ago.

Whether newer cars have some mechanism to prevent engine crank with too low a battery voltage for the coils I dont' know. But monitoring the voltage level while engine is cranking should turn this up if it is happening.
 

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There are two issues. Not to put too fine a point on it but one problem is the dealer service department doesn't know what it is doing.

Replacing a fuel pump with no success then replacing the fuel pump relay, and again with no success, is the wrong direction to be going when dealing with a suspected fuel delivery problem.

From my 2nd and 1st hand experience, it is fuse, relay, then confirm the pump runs when given 12V shop power directly.

My advice would be to confirm the fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit is ok. If it is then very likely the fuel pump was ok along with relay.

If the fuse is ok the crank but no start behavior can arise from a bad crankshaft position sensor.

What may give you a clue is when the engine is cranking the tach is lifeless.

A dealer tech can view the sensor signal with proper equipment and should see a voltage square wave as the engine cranks. If he doesn't see this... probably the windshield wiper motor is bad.

J/K. Of course the crankshaft position sensor is highly suspect assuming the tech was properly connected to its output.

There can be -- rare -- a voltage level problem. While there may be enough battery voltage to crank the engine there is not enough battery voltage to energize the coils enough so when the power is cut to the coil the electrical field doesn't collapse with enough "energy" to generate a spark. This was common -- at least I encountered this -- many years ago.

Whether newer cars have some mechanism to prevent engine crank with too low a battery voltage for the coils I dont' know. But monitoring the voltage level while engine is cranking should turn this up if it is happening.
Thanks, and none of these would throw an error code or be detected by the diagnostic at the dealer?
 

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Thanks, and none of these would throw an error code or be detected by the diagnostic at the dealer?
Not starting is not an emissions problem and would not necessarily trigger an OBD2 error code and CEL.

The PCM could log a proprietary code which would require access to a "factory" diagnostic computer to obtain. I put factory in quotes because it is possible an after market OBD2 tool could obtain these proprietary codes but I have no experience with the Dodge after market OBD2 tools.

Likewise low fuel pressure would not necessarily result in an OBD2 error and a CEL but could be logged as a proprietary error by the PCM.

You could connect a generic OBD2 tool to the car's OBD2 port and see if there are any pending codes or permanent codes and if so write these down and then look them up online.

A Dodge specific OBD2 tool -- after market -- is more expensive but if it has more features including the ability to read factory proprietary codes -- might be a good addition to one's tool box.
 
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