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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon,

As some of you may be aware with my challenger undergoing surgery to get her back on the road I was thinking of getting her (me) a present when she gets back home. It's been awhile since I've touched any mods, but I think I've decided on some exhaust cutouts for that fun factor awesome sound.

I've gathered that the DMH electric cutouts are solid these days after they went through a rough patch a few years ago. I've been looking at pages upon pages of posts looking for some clarification on some key information. I couldn't find the answers to the questions below.

Do you need dual cutouts or just single? Is the typical positioning just aft of the cat converter?

Is the wiring for the switch fairly easy to run? How about the switch itself?

Is your typical ma and pa exhaust/body shop capable of handling an install? Would an exhaust/body shop be trusted to install the wiring as well? What can I expect the cost of install to be?


I would have no problem trying to do the install myself, just wish I had some decent jacking equipment. Just hoping the price tag of install wouldn't be too outrageous.
 

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Are you doing this with a stick exhaust, it would be nice to open them up then close them up for stock driving. Realistically any exhaust shop should be capeable of doing this the real question is how clean the install on the button will be
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Are you doing this with a stick exhaust, it would be nice to open them up then close them up for stock driving. Realistically any exhaust shop should be capeable of doing this the real question is how clean the install on the button will be
The cat-back isn't stock. I have Pypes w/Violators. They are nice and have good volume, I was just looking for that little something extra.:devil:

The more I read on the subject, DMH product support seems very sketchy. I'm bouncing back on the QTP fence due to being able to just partially open them to get a hybrid sound and the fact that they offer a wireless FOB to open them.

This brings up another question that I can't seem to find the answer to. Can one wireless receiver operate two valves at the same time? This of course is that I'm assuming two valves are the norm. (Edit: Pretty sure I found the answer, yes it can)

I'm sure that I could do the wiring myself, and I probably will. I plan on putting together a nice install guide w/pics if I end up getting these.
 

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This job should not be that difficult for a muffler shop, i got mine done and the problem is that a shop that does nothing but mufflers will not do the wiring, which is what I have not done to mine as of yet, now for the switch (which I already mounted) it is not that hard to do the hard part is running the wires from the cut outs to the switch and as I understand it, it should be run through/under the console finding the correct route is the key. I'll get to it time permitted. Good luck with your install.

David
 

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There is also race ready performance. I believe they have a lifetime warranty.
 

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Well...I just spent 10 minutes typing a very detailed reply to this on my ipad (not easy)...then it froze and i lost it all...I'm going to go to my trusty computer now because if that happens again my ipad is in danger of being thrown out a window...
 

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Alright, now what I was trying to say before technical difficulties so rudely interrupted me. I installed QTP's a few weeks ago and I have some information about them. You will need two cutouts first of all, one for each pipe since it is duel exhaust. I did all of the work with my dad at his body shop (note I did have access to a lift) except for the actual cutting/welding.

I had my local muffler shop cut holes in my JBA midpipes and weld the pipes for the cutouts on there because we were on a tight schedule and didnt have time for mess ups.

Wiring was mostly a breeze. On the passenger side, once the wire was connected to the cutout, we ran the wire down the lines running from front to back and zip tied them in place. We went all the way back to the x-pipe and over the heat shield, down a "trench" on the driver side and secured that in place with special insulation (sticky on one side). For the drivers side we ran down the right side of the bottom (zip tied in place) and up to where the left wire was.

Right under the driver seat there is a body plug, we used a screwdriver and pushed it up inside the car. This leads right under the drivers seat, you can reach under there and feel the hole. We pulled the plug out and added an o-ring (i think it was actually meant for some kind of plumbing application...but hey...it fit) in the place where the body plug was and ran the wires up through there. We filled the opening in the o-ring with some clear apoxy so bugs and such wont get in through it.

We then ran the wires under the seat track and unbolted the center console to hide the excess wire underneath it. This was the hardest part and it still wasnt all that bad. We then tapped the wires running to the 12v outlet inside the center console, there is room inside to run a wire between the front wall and the coin sorter thing. We cut a hole on the front wall of the center console the same size as the paper template we made for the switch size and mounted the switch there.

I hated the toggle switch that came with the cutouts so I went to my local auto parts store and ordered a generic window switch to wire it to. Took some creative thinking to get the wires to work the same but in the end it looks great and 100% professional. Works great too.

Sounds wicked at idle (catless mids and longtubes) and like a top fuel drag car at higher rpms. If you have any questions feel free to ask as Im not sure I was very clear in this post...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the great info Ryan. I'm really looking forward to the install and guide.

I have to agree with you about the switch though. I'm definitely going to be shopping around for a different switch. The QTP switch is just plain tacky.

Big favor if possible, could you snap a picture on where you welded the cutouts exactly and possibly show the wiring route. I have a good idea on where you installed, but I was just hoping to clarify.

I was thinking about cruising around 90% of the time with the cutouts just cracked open a little bit to give it a little bit of a 'controlled rumble.' Does that work or just sound goofy?

Thanks again!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Im leaving on vacation for a week today so I cant get any very good images of the underside, I may try when I get back if you havent finished by then. I found this underbody image on google and drew approximately where my wires go. Red circles are cutouts and green circle is the hole I went through to get inside the car. The red with white dots is just to indicate that I went over that heat shield. Next picture I took while the car is still up on the rack, not very good as it was taken with a cell phone. But it shows you the approximate location of where I had the actual cutouts welded on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Many thanks!
 

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So I'm looking at doing the same exact thing as you OP.
Rather than starting a new thread I was hoping someone could answer

1 where they ordered their cut outs from? I previously had great experience with DHM and was highly looking into them again.

2 Is the little loss of torque /and throwing off the AF ratio any concern? Or was that just hippie talk in other posts I was reading. One day i'll get a dyno tune of the car but I'm just doing cold air intake and cut outs for now.
 

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Wondering what you think of the catless mids? I have the same JBA set up but with cats but no room for the cutout. Will have to go cat-less with the cutouts, trying to decide.

fwiw I went with QTP cutouts, I like being able to replace a motor myself (unlike DMH).
 

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Cutouts

Ryan, I have the DMH ones and pretty much went the same way except the wiring. I drilled a hole on the upper area of the trans tunnel on the driver side and ran both of them there. I put a grommet and it is water tight with the wiring through it. Also I got some heat wrap and wrapped the harnesses real well as I had an issue with heat once but it was wire short not engine but when the new harness was run I wasn't taking any chances. Also I put the switch where it was in plain sight but unless you knew the car it wouldn't dawn on you (for LEO when they want to bust your hump for loud noise).
 

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A tech at Doug's cutouts (Petronix) said the closer to the cats the faster they "f up" ...it's all about heat kills I guess...
 

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I recently had RRP Cut outs installed.. they are amazing! I'll attach some photo's of my car at the end.

RRP's can be installed 2 ways.. clamped on with stainless steel clamps, or welded.

RRP Cut Outs ARE STAINLESS STEEL and I chose to have them welded. The wiring isn't that difficult.. there is a black plug under the driver's seat that my wires were run thru. The switch was located on the lower left side of the dash, near the trunk button. The switch will allow you to open them together a little, a lot, full open, etc..

As for the power to the switch... here's a little bit of info for all of us... WE have an extra slot for a fuse in both fuse boxes (under the hood and trunk panel). Rather than tap into an existing power line, I had mine routed to the front fuse box and just added the additional fuse in the empty bank. IF I were to blow a fuse, it would be a 2 second change out. With all the different electronics we have on these cars, I opted NOT to tap into something already running fine.. just put the motors on their own fuse. It wasn't rocket science and was pretty easy to do once you realize you have an empty slot available. In the picture below of the fuse box under the hood, you can see the empty space on the upper right side next to the red fuse. Simple to add another.. Whatever you do, make sure your fuse is accessible and not mashed under the dash somewhere. And, IF a motor should fail, it's 3 bolts to change it and it has a plug and play harness.

Any questions, just call Vince at Race Ready Performance. Home You can buy the entire kit (and yes they have a remote option) or you can buy just the cut outs..


I hope this helps. Any questions, just ask.
 

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There is also race ready performance. I believe they have a lifetime warranty.

Yes, a limited lifetime warranty on the original car installed. Short of taking a hammer to them, they're covered according to their video's on the website. Some good info there.. these have been around for quite a while... very reliable company.
 

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Yes, a limited lifetime warranty on the original car installed. Short of taking a hammer to them, they're covered according to their video's on the website. Some good info there.. these have been around for quite a while... very reliable company.
I would check with RRP on exactly what their warranty is. I know one of the video's they show on their site says Lifetime Limited Warranty but I don't know how long ago there video was made. Best to check.
 
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