Posts by Ryan
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Alright, now what I was trying to say before technical difficulties so rudely interrupted me. I installed QTP's a few weeks ago and I have some information about them. You will need two cutouts first of all, one for each pipe since it is duel exhaust. I did all of the work with my dad at his body shop (note I did have access to a lift) except for the actual cutting/welding.
I had my local muffler shop cut holes in my JBA midpipes and weld the pipes for the cutouts on there because we were on a tight schedule and didnt have time for mess ups.
Wiring was mostly a breeze. On the passenger side, once the wire was connected to the cutout, we ran the wire down the lines running from front to back and zip tied them in place. We went all the way back to the x-pipe and over the heat shield, down a "trench" on the driver side and secured that in place with special insulation (sticky on one side). For the drivers side we ran down the right side of the bottom (zip tied in place) and up to where the left wire was.
Right under the driver seat there is a body plug, we used a screwdriver and pushed it up inside the car. This leads right under the drivers seat, you can reach under there and feel the hole. We pulled the plug out and added an o-ring (i think it was actually meant for some kind of plumbing application...but hey...it fit) in the place where the body plug was and ran the wires up through there. We filled the opening in the o-ring with some clear apoxy so bugs and such wont get in through it.
We then ran the wires under the seat track and unbolted the center console to hide the excess wire underneath it. This was the hardest part and it still wasnt all that bad. We then tapped the wires running to the 12v outlet inside the center console, there is room inside to run a wire between the front wall and the coin sorter thing. We cut a hole on the front wall of the center console the same size as the paper template we made for the switch size and mounted the switch there.
I hated the toggle switch that came with the cutouts so I went to my local auto parts store and ordered a generic window switch to wire it to. Took some creative thinking to get the wires to work the same but in the end it looks great and 100% professional. Works great too.
Sounds wicked at idle (catless mids and longtubes) and like a top fuel drag car at higher rpms. If you have any questions feel free to ask as Im not sure I was very clear in this post...
I had my local muffler shop cut holes in my JBA midpipes and weld the pipes for the cutouts on there because we were on a tight schedule and didnt have time for mess ups.
Wiring was mostly a breeze. On the passenger side, once the wire was connected to the cutout, we ran the wire down the lines running from front to back and zip tied them in place. We went all the way back to the x-pipe and over the heat shield, down a "trench" on the driver side and secured that in place with special insulation (sticky on one side). For the drivers side we ran down the right side of the bottom (zip tied in place) and up to where the left wire was.
Right under the driver seat there is a body plug, we used a screwdriver and pushed it up inside the car. This leads right under the drivers seat, you can reach under there and feel the hole. We pulled the plug out and added an o-ring (i think it was actually meant for some kind of plumbing application...but hey...it fit) in the place where the body plug was and ran the wires up through there. We filled the opening in the o-ring with some clear apoxy so bugs and such wont get in through it.
We then ran the wires under the seat track and unbolted the center console to hide the excess wire underneath it. This was the hardest part and it still wasnt all that bad. We then tapped the wires running to the 12v outlet inside the center console, there is room inside to run a wire between the front wall and the coin sorter thing. We cut a hole on the front wall of the center console the same size as the paper template we made for the switch size and mounted the switch there.
I hated the toggle switch that came with the cutouts so I went to my local auto parts store and ordered a generic window switch to wire it to. Took some creative thinking to get the wires to work the same but in the end it looks great and 100% professional. Works great too.
Sounds wicked at idle (catless mids and longtubes) and like a top fuel drag car at higher rpms. If you have any questions feel free to ask as Im not sure I was very clear in this post...
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248 Posts
Im leaving on vacation for a week today so I cant get any very good images of the underside, I may try when I get back if you havent finished by then. I found this underbody image on google and drew approximately where my wires go. Red circles are cutouts and green circle is the hole I went through to get inside the car. The red with white dots is just to indicate that I went over that heat shield. Next picture I took while the car is still up on the rack, not very good as it was taken with a cell phone. But it shows you the approximate location of where I had the actual cutouts welded on.
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