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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Torque management is applied at shift points to mitigate wear and tear on the drive train from excessive torque in between gears. One way it does that is to reduce throttle.

As fun as scratches are at gear shifts, they are viewed as detrimental to the longevity of the drivetrain components and thus actively negates with Torque Management.

The KR in that datalog is probably not false, but it’s hard to tell from just one log. To really get a feel for its source, record several WOT runs under similar conditions and look for repeated KR spikes in the same RPM ranges, excluding shift points.

A normal false knock event will begin with a spike and ladder step down. Real knock with tend to either increase or stay steady over time. Your looks closer to the latter, but more WOT runs graphed in a log or logs would make it easier to help classify.

Also, what is the engine, engine mods, miles, tune, tune mods, and gasoline octane being shown in the log file?
 

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2011 SRT Challenger GWE
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Torque management is applied at shift points to mitigate wear and tear on the drive train from excessive torque in between gears. One way it does that is to reduce throttle.

As fun as scratches are at gear shifts, they are viewed as detrimental to the longevity of the drivetrain components and thus actively negates with Torque Management.

The KR in that datalog is probably not false, but it’s hard to tell from just one log. To really get a feel for its source, record several WOT runs under similar conditions and look for repeated KR spikes in the same RPM ranges, excluding shift points.

A normal false knock event will begin with a spike and ladder step down. Real knock with tend to either increase or stay steady over time. Your looks closer to the latter, but more WOT runs graphed in a log or logs would make it easier to help classify.

Also, what is the engine, engine mods, miles, tune, tune mods, and gasoline octane being shown in the log file?
The cars only mods are a 3.91gear 93 octane tune and a oil catch can and drag radials i was running 93 gas might try better fuel next time. The car has 106,000 miles. I did raise the shift points and turned off MDS.
 

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Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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10,123 Posts
The cars only mods are a 3.91gear 93 octane tune and a oil catch can and drag radials i was running 93 gas might try better fuel next time. The car has 106,000 miles. I did raise the shift points and turned off MDS.


Yeah, that 3.91 behind a NAG1 trans and 6.4L engine means there is an unholy amount of torque that the drivetrain and suspension has to try to keep under control while you are at full throttle, and the 93 canned tune will have the least amount of torque management applied to try to do it. It will also have the most sensitive knock sensor settings, so any errant noise in the suspension or exhaust may be picked up and mistaken for knock.

Having said that, yours is not too bad. 2.5 degrees for the maximum STKR seen in the log is pretty good for that setup. Excluding the shifts, I only see two spots where I would think real knock occurred and could be addressed, but even then I wouldn't do anything without more logs showing repeated knock in the same spots.

Are you running the stock air intake for the engine or an aftermarket CAI? If aftermarket CAI, you can add a little fuel to mid and upper RPM range to see if that does anything to the KR, but run more logs first to make sure it recurs before making any changes. If the KR is intermittent and not predictable, changing the WOT Fuel wont have an effect on it.
Line Font Parallel Terrestrial plant Rectangle


Also, you might try out the 91 tune and see what it does under the same conditions (93 octane, ambient air temp, etc). You might find the car likes it better.

Sometime the quality of the 93 octane you find is a little low, leaving it a little short of the requirements the 93 tune has for fuel. And if the PCM pulls enough timing in the 93 tune (due to knock from poor quality 93 gas) to basically equal the 91 tune, why not run the 91 tune instead?

The 91 tune has more torque management (which your 3.91 rear-end can benefit from) and less sensitive knock sensors, which can all translate into a slightly better tune to run in some cases.

Try it out on your car and see; couldn’t hurt, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, that 3.91 behind a NAG1 trans and 6.1L engine means there is an unholy amount of torque that the drivetrain and suspension has to try to keep under control while you are at full throttle, and the 93 canned tune will have the least amount of torque management applied to try to do it. It will also have the most sensitive knock sensor settings, so any errant noise in the suspension or exhaust may be picked up and mistaken for knock.

Having said that, yours is not too bad. 2.5 degrees for the maximum STKR seen in the log is pretty good for that setup. Excluding the shifts, I only see two spots where I would think real knock occurred and could be addressed, but even then I wouldn't do anything without more logs showing repeated knock in the same spots.

Are you running the stock air intake for the engine or an aftermarket CAI? If aftermarket CAI, you can add a little fuel to mid and upper RPM range to see if that does anything to the KR, but run more logs first to make sure it recurs before making any changes. If the KR is intermittent and not predictable, changing the WOT Fuel wont have an effect on it. View attachment 1034356

Also, you might try out the 91 tune and see what it does under the same conditions (93 octane, ambient air temp, etc). You might find the car likes it better.

Sometime the quality of the 93 octane you find is a little low, leaving it a little short of the requirements the 93 tune has for fuel. And if the PCM pulls enough timing in the 93 tune (due to knock from poor quality 93 gas) to basically equal the 91 tune, why not run the 91 tune instead?

The 91 tune has more torque management (which your 3.91 rear-end can benefit from) and less sensitive knock sensors, which can all translate into a slightly better tune to run in some cases.

Try it out on your car and see; couldn’t hurt, right?
No cai stock airbox with a K&N. The car is running pretty good on this pass it went

No CAI just a stock airbox with a K&N. Car is running pretty good but this was at 300 DA im sure it has some left in it. And this is the pass in the log shown
Receipt Font Temperature Handwriting Number
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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No cai stock airbox with a K&N. The car is running pretty good on this pass it went


No CAI just a stock airbox with a K&N. Car is running pretty good but this was at 300 DA im sure it has some left in it. And this is the pass in the log shown View attachment 1034357
Yeah, I would just keep recording datalogs and watching for anything out of the ordinary. 2.5 degrees of KR isn’t much for the max seen in a run. Worst case scenario is that’d only put you about 5-6 HP down at that point anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No cai stock airbox with a K&N. The car is running pretty good on this pass it went


No CAI just a stock airbox with a K&N. Car is running pretty good but this was at 300 DA im sure it has some left in it. And this is the pass in the log shown View attachment 1034357
Nuke im running a 6.4 .

Thanks Nuke it seems you have helped a lot of people here and are definitely helping me.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Nuke im running a 6.4 .
Yeah I realized that and changed my earlier post. While that is good for the driver experience, that’s even worse for the car.

With that 3.91 rear-end, you are asking the drivetrain to try tame otherworldly torque once it’s been multiplied by the NAG1’s 1st gear and then the 3.91 rear-end. The car can do it, obviously, but some errant KR at shift points will be unavoidable with that setup.

Thanks Nuke it seems you have helped a lot of people here and are definitely helping me.
Glad to be of service! 😁
 
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