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Discussion Starter #1
This is the most aggravating part of negotiation for me. You think you have settled on a price then they slam you with the dreaded "Dealer Fee" or "Document Processing Fee". The salesman tells you "All dealers charge this" or "It's the law" or "It's the cost of doing business". Some dealers will tell you up front "Our dealer fee is $699" and others won't answer a direct question about it, EVER until it shows up on the sales order AFTER you settle on a price. I have bought several Dodges and seen the fees run from zero to $800. How much did your dealer charge?
 

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In my experience, the "document fee" is about $150. They will always charge it. When I agree on the price of a car, I only talk about the final out the door price. That way, there are no suprises at the end of the deal.
 

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My dealerships charge a $349 dealer fee, but all challenger sales to forum members are at dealer invoice less any applicable incentives or special financing. Feel free to pm me for stock availability/ price quote
 

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I am 50 + ? years old and I have never ever paid a documentation fee. The finance manager might have taken it out of the dealerships or salesmans price but it has never been figured into the price at the end. I have had finance managers try and add the fee but I tell them to forget the fee or I walk. Most of the time they forget the fee and a couple times I have walked but they have always told me to come back and they will not add the fee.

One thing people have to remember is dealerships have more hidden money they make off sales then just incentive back, financing, holdback, volume dealer, and invoice. In fact invoice is a another tool they use to market their vehicles. Invoice means squat, just like MSRP means squat. I shouldn't say they mean squat actually they mean, MSRP/invoice = trying to get the most you will give them.

Dealerships have a love hate relationship with me. They hate to see me comeing and love to see me go.:werd:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I agree on the price of a car, I only talk about the final out the door price. That way, there are no suprises at the end of the deal.
Same here. When I bought my last Dodge, I found my best deal about 100 miles away and was prepared to drive there to order it. I decided to take the deal to my local dealer and ask him to match it. I was VERY clear with the salesman on the "out the door price", NO dealer fees as the out of town dealer did not charge any added fees. After two hours of screwing around, talking to the sales manager, etc, he agreed to match it and placed the order. I paid my deposit and he handed me the paperwork.....he had added a $250 dealer fee. I told him to cancel the order and got my deposit back from the cashier. I walked out the door and placed my order with the out of town dealer over the phone in 5 minutes. Six weeks later I picked up my new car from the out of town dealer. A month AFTER that, the local dealer called to tell me my special order was in. Apparently they forgot to cancel the order. Woops for them, as it was not a typical options package. It sat on the lot for months. Was it worth it to drive 100 miles to save $250? Probably not, but I do not like to be lied to and won't do business with anyone who does.
 

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LOL, I’m very familiar with them. Years ago, I about cleaned the finance managers clock because I negotiated an out the door price and he tried to sneak it in, and I called him on it. Choice words were loudly exchanged between us. Several sales people/managers stepped between us to keep it from escalating. Needless to say I didn’t buy that day, and I had a few customers follow me out the door as the lobby full of people heard the whole ordeal and didn’t agree or like the dealer’s stance either.

Like then, I still shop compare out the door prices only. I am very clear about this with dealers. And if they try to tack it on, I walk. Plain & simple.

On my Challenger I just bought a few weeks ago, I held to MY same “policy”. They have an $89 doc fee. So they simply lowered their asking price of the car to incorporate the doc fee and still give me the same price I was getting elsewhere. Same deal when I bought my wife a new Equinox back in November, except their doc fee was $149 or $199. So they lowered the asking price so my final out the door price was what we agreed to and just slightly lower than others were offering me. How they dissect their numbers on the paper doesn’t matter so much to me as long as I get the deal I agreed to. In both cases, I would try to work with either dealer again because they respected what I told them and simply wanted to earn my business.

The highest doc fee I’ve seen myself is $399. That was just a few months back when I was considering a Camaro SS instead of the Challenger. We never got far enough into the deal to hammer out an “out the door” price. What I found interesting and the only reason I knew their fee was because each sales person had a plaque on their desk disclaiming the doc fee amount and statement basically saying they wouldn’t waive it. Looking back, I can’t even believe I almost bought a Camaro. I am so much happier having the Challenger instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I left out the final straw in the saga. When I balked at the $250 fee, the salesman told me it was worth my while to pay more for the car from them because they provided free oil changes and tire rotation for the first year AND a free loaner vehicle during service to all new car owners. That was actually quite compelling. I excused myself and went to the restroom to think about it, then got suspicious. I used my cell phone to call the service manager and asked him about this....he had NO idea what I was talking about. There was no such program

I understand the dealership needs to make a profit and the salesmen need to make a living, but why do so many feel they have to lie and confuse you to do so?
 

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....here in California the doc fees a dealership can charge are capped (at $55 IIRC). Many states have no limit though. In either case, my last 3 cars were all purchased through internet/fleet managers. I always made a point to request that they include all costs/fees in their quote to me. Those that play games in their responses simply didn't get my business.

Although I have never had to do this, I was prepared to walk out on any salesman who might have reneged on the price we agreed to via email. I doubt if I will ever do another "walk-in" to buy a car.
 

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VA has some of the highest doc fees; no cap that I know of. I usually negotiate a price or a price difference if I'm trading, and then I let them know if they have a fee like that they can fold it into the money they're getting, because I'm not paying any more. At that point, they're usually ready to sell the car, so no problems.

I think if a dealership charges that fee, they have to charge it to everyone, not just some, or they can get hit with discimination lawsuits. That's why on all my sales orders they have to show the fee, but it comes out of their money, not more from me.
 

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I hate the Doc Fee they charge for new cars - supposedly to cover advertisement costs, prep costs, screwing front plate on cost, and washing the car week after week if it doesn't sell right away.

Your right, VA has some of the highest ones out there... most are charging $400+ and they plainly state it as so when discussing price and extra charges, tax, title, etc.

This time around I went over to Silver Spring MD - same dealership as in VA (DarCars) and they only charged $200. So I said at least the Doc Fee is lower & the car price was $3000 lower than in VA, so I said do it. 3 hours later I was driving a new 'sitting on the lot' '09 R/T back in Dec '08.
 

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My dealer didn't initially include the doc fee in their quote via the internet. Before I headed to the dealership to see the car, I called the guy and asked if everything was included. He said there was a doc fee of something like $269 that was not included. I ended up buying the car for $178 more than the original quote (the quote that didn't include the doc fee) and that included a spare tire kit and 20" chrome clad wheels. They were more than fair about the deal.

I hate haggling over cars. I love internet shopping. :)
 

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Be ready to walk if they won't remove the fees. If you are getting Dealer Financing then there might some justification to the fees but if you pay by certified funds there is no justification for these fees except to add dealer profit.
 

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Last three cars I bought, I've seen them try to add on anywhere from $#150 to $399. All three times I told them, bottom line, Im paying "x" for this vehicle. I don't care if you want to charge me $1 and a $30,000 doc fee, you can write it up any damn way you want, but Im only paying "x". Each time they took it out of the bottom line and the base price of the vehicle was reduced so their paperwork could still show the Doc fee.

Mike
 

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.... EVER until it shows up on the sales order AFTER you settle on a price. I have bought several Dodges and seen the fees run from zero to $800. How much did your dealer charge?
They tried to charge a doc fee and I told them no. We negotiated a price out the door. I told them the bottle line on the contract had better be that price or the deal was off. I don't know if they reduced the price somewhere else or ate it or what but like other said when I negotiate an out the door price that means I do not intend to pay one penny more than the agreed upon price.
 

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I hate the Doc Fee they charge for new cars - supposedly to cover advertisement costs, prep costs, screwing front plate on cost, and washing the car week after week if it doesn't sell right away.

Your right, VA has some of the highest ones out there... most are charging $400+ and they plainly state it as so when discussing price and extra charges, tax, title, etc.

This time around I went over to Spring Field MD - same dealership as in VA (DarCars) and they only charged $200. So I said at least the Doc Fee is lower & the car price was $3000 lower than in VA, so I said do it. 3 hours later I was driving a new 'sitting on the lot' '09 R/T back in Dec '08.
I bought my 300c from DarCars in Silver Spring... I'm looking at the paperwork right now.
It says:
Dealer Processing Fee = $100
(Not Required By Law)
Then below that:
Reg Fee = $20.00
Title Fee = $27.50
Temp Tag = $15.00
License Fee = $5 or $6 (can't tell which... it's on the line)
+ state Taxes and that's it...

And all said and done it was just over $11,000 under MSRP
Bought it on the last day of the original Chrysler (6/6/09)...
They wanted anything they could, gone for a cash deal that day. :)

When I bought the Challenger this year... The dealer charged me $3 for a 30day temp tag and that was it.
I paid all the title & registration and Taxes to AAA when I got home.

If I was the original poster I wouldn't pay a dealer $400-$600 to process dick.
No reason too...
 

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Meh. Just negotiate your out the door price another $___.__ to compensate for whatever extra fee they tack on. Don't negotiate the car price. Negotiate the total price, taking into account the title, doc fee, destination charge, trade in, and tax. In many states you are only taxed the cash amount, so take your trade in value out of the price and then apply the sales tax. If you walk out paying what you wanted to pay, who really cares how they label the costs?
 

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Browsing through eBay I've seen doc fees as high as $699.00!!:jawdrop:
IMO, you'd have to be crazy to pay any fee that high. :notallthere:
 

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My ?#$^bag dealer "Merrick dodge of wantagh long island n.y. hit me with a few extra bucks at the end too. They gave me that this is the price plus doc fee and reggie only to find out they added about $300 bucks plus $60 for reggie cash then i relized they added the reggie in the loan too. I tried to call them back several times about it but they never call back so i gave them a bad survey. There loss eveything else went perfect to. If you want to hurt a dealer it's in the survey so a friend of mine who is a dealer told me.
 
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