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@TheMasterBlaster
Doing the right thing is important but generally speaking it‘s not a suicide pact. It’s not his job to do his due diligence and the dealerships too, deal was brought to the table, it was agreed to and signed and all opt out or buyer remorse timelines passed or expired so good luck to them. They would literally laugh in your face if you came back in and demanded the same because they screwed you out of $5k. That’s a fact...
 

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@Justintime2
So your opinion like many here is, screw them. It was their responsibility to make sure they got his payoff right. They didn't, so forget who should have owed who what. The OP rightfully owed more on that car than what he paid for it. What's right is right. I think it's wrong to say all dealerships screw their customers so they should get screwed here. Or the dealer has lots of money so no big deal. To me it's simple, what should have happened isn't what happened. The right thing to do is talk it out with the dealer. They know lawyers are not worth $8,000.00. I am sure they will want to make a deal.
 

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Maybe tell the dealer they can buy the car back for the loan amount, plus early payoff penalty and all sales taxes. That would be the right thing to do. Then reopen negotiations on the car without a trade. Why should the consumer pay of the mistake of the paid professionals? @TheBlasterMaster, we all can see you are a corporate apologist who does not care about the consumer.
 

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@Justintime2
So your opinion like many here is, screw them. It was their responsibility to make sure they got his payoff right. They didn't, so forget who should have owed who what. The OP rightfully owed more on that car than what he paid for it. What's right is right. I think it's wrong to say all dealerships screw their customers so they should get screwed here. Or the dealer has lots of money so no big deal. To me it's simple, what should have happened isn't what happened. The right thing to do is talk it out with the dealer. They know lawyers are not worth $8,000.00. I am sure they will want to make a deal.
Actually, Everytime the dealers ask for a $499 Doc fee on their price of a vehicle, they are ripping you off. Everytime you go into finance and they sign you up for crap like Scotch Guard coating or things like that, they are trying to rip you off or adding their markup for other things on top of the MSRP,.... they are ripping you off.

So be honest if you like, but they won't be honest to you. When I worked at a Toyota dealer, I've sat at tables with my manager and tried to correct customers on them making a verbal mistake on money and he shh'ed me.
 

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Just my 2 cent question.........
Would the dealership want that car back?
It has been registered, so if they get it back, it is now a used car and can't get top $$$ for it. :unsure:
 

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I bought a wrecked Grand Prix to rebuild. A month after starting the rebuild the auction house contacted me and said there was a hold on the vehicle because the previous owner was suing GM, they wanted the car back for an undefined period of time with no compensation to me. I told them to pound salt, they replied that GM was beating hell out of them and I would never get the title if I didn't cooperate. I let them take the car, fortunately I got it back in a couple of weeks. I repaired the car, we liked it and decided to keep it for my wife.

2 years later an investigator for GM contacted me wanting information. The lawsuit claimed the cir clip holding the axle failed causing the axle to exit the car causing the crash. GM had photo's showing the hub was broken off the axle but axle appeared to be in car. They asked if I had pictures or by any stroke of luck still had the car or axle. I did, it was a great pry bar. The axle had a mark where it struck the pinion pin and the pinion pin (still in the car) had a corresponding mark. That evidence would totally destroy the plaintiffs lawsuit. They let the case drag for 3 years hoping the evidence would be destroyed or to difficult to find

I told them they could have the photo's and axle but I knew I would be dragged to NY City to testify and my wife's car would be taken to prove the axle and pinion pin were original to the car . Told them I wanted $1000 for time lost from my job and related expenses. GM said they wouldn't give me a penny. Six months after we stopped talking GM served me with a show cause order demanding that I show cause why I should be able to prevent GM from defending themselves.

Time to see the Lawyer. I told him the story, showed him the show cause order (which he estimated cost GM $10,000 in legal costs) and told the lawyer I just wanted to do the fair thing, if he thought I was being a butt hole asking for $1K I would drop my request. The layer looked over his glasses at me and said (approximately) " We go to law school to learn the laws of the land and how to apply to all equally, well that's in theory. In reality its who were going to F&^ and how much we are going to F&^ them out of so stop the fairness shit.

I think BlackenedSVT is is a similar situation. He will probably need legal representation but don't even think about doing "the right thing" with that dealer because they have already demonstrated they have no intention of trying to do the right think in return. Just understand you are probably in for some unpleasant days no matter what you do. So do what is right for you.
 

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Actually, Everytime the dealers ask for a $499 Doc fee on their price of a vehicle
And this doc fee charge (IMO) kinda solidifies the fact that the dealership should be held accountable for their actions. The OP paid a doc fee for the correct processing of the paperwork, not the incorrect processing of the paperwork.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
UPDATE:
Spoke with the lawyer and the long and short of it is:
I have a 75% chance of winning, 25% chance of losing. The chance of losing being I signed paperwork with the buy-out of the Chevy lease being incorrect (despite the fact that it was the figure the DEALER gave/told me and had me have to sign in order to continue the deal). And depending which lawyer you ask, those % could be more (or less) in my favor I suppose.

So if any of you want to know what to do, in the event you get stuck in my situation:
You can choose to either drag it out and go to court and have a high % chance of winning... (losing all that other time and money)
Or you risk losing and having to re-negotiate (if possible) all the time and money (brakes, tires, repairs, services, etc) that you put into the car for a year+ while the trial waited, only to have to lose the car at the end.

I'm having the lawyer talk with the dealer.
 

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I was going to say, do you own the car, or a bank? I assume it is financed, I would talk to them. THEY would be the ones to repo the car, correct, since they technically own it.
 

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UPDATE:
Spoke with the lawyer and the long and short of it is:


I'm having the lawyer talk with the dealer.
So far I think your doing the best you can. Good luck, hope things work out well for you.
 

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UPDATE:
Spoke with the lawyer and the long and short of it is:
I have a 75% chance of winning, 25% chance of losing. The chance of losing being I signed paperwork with the buy-out of the Chevy lease being incorrect (despite the fact that it was the figure the DEALER gave/told me and had me have to sign in order to continue the deal). And depending which lawyer you ask, those % could be more (or less) in my favor I suppose.

So if any of you want to know what to do, in the event you get stuck in my situation:
You can choose to either drag it out and go to court and have a high % chance of winning... (losing all that other time and money)
Or you risk losing and having to re-negotiate (if possible) all the time and money (brakes, tires, repairs, services, etc) that you put into the car for a year+ while the trial waited, only to have to lose the car at the end.

I'm having the lawyer talk with the dealer.
Thanks let us know, I really want to know how they handle the current loan you have and the 5K difference. Or if you decide to undo the deal if the dealer pays off the loan and any penalties and reimburses you for plates and insurance while you had the car.
 

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They’re nt buying back whats now a used car over $5k, they’ll lose that and more right out of the hopper. have the lawyer tell them if they want it they can come pick it up and unwind every cent of the deal including the payment you had to make for a lease Vehicle you no longer have and didn’t get to drive. That’ll be the end of it I’d bet...
 

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UPDATE:
Spoke with the lawyer and the long and short of it is:
I have a 75% chance of winning, 25% chance of losing. The chance of losing being I signed paperwork with the buy-out of the Chevy lease being incorrect (despite the fact that it was the figure the DEALER gave/told me and had me have to sign in order to continue the deal). And depending which lawyer you ask, those % could be more (or less) in my favor I suppose.

So if any of you want to know what to do, in the event you get stuck in my situation:
You can choose to either drag it out and go to court and have a high % chance of winning... (losing all that other time and money)
Or you risk losing and having to re-negotiate (if possible) all the time and money (brakes, tires, repairs, services, etc) that you put into the car for a year+ while the trial waited, only to have to lose the car at the end.

I'm having the lawyer talk with the dealer.
Been following this thread. I think you are handling it right.

You don't want the car to be repossessed. This will affect your credit score and this can affect not only you when you go to buy another car but what you pay for insurance, perhaps even a job search. Word is some companies run a credit check on prospective employees.
 

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3rd party back dated check...

A Guy
 

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I knew talking to a lawyer was in your best interest. It’s never a good idea to get into a legal situation without knowing every side of the situation. I would say court costs would by far exceed tire costs. I would say trying to make a deal outside of court or just give the car back. I would say in a situation like this you let the law be your moral compass. If the law agrees you are in the right then you are in the right.
 

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The moral thing to do is to completely unwind the deal and take the truck out of the deal, since it's upside-down and makes no sense to trade in. Buy the Challenger at the price agreed with correct financing. Any incremental costs you wouldn't otherwise have sustained had it been done this way to begin with should be borne by the dealership that made the mistake. You had a responsibility to know your buyout and to raise an eyebrow when you heard the buyout mysteriously drop from $21k (plausible) to $13k (not remotely plausible).
 

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BTW everyone, this was not a "new" car obviously. OP should not have called it such.

I was able to get a good deal on this white 2017 Challenger GT
fully loaded, with 30k miles on it for $21,700 (+ some tax, title, etc), and a warranty.
 
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