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Hello i have a 2011 challenger sxt plus and i was wondering what a diablo tuner is for.So if someone can tell me what this is for and tell me if it worth !THANK
 

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makes you go faster!!!!
 

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tons of adjustable perimeters, throttle sensitivity and makes you go vrum vrummmmmm
 

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I got the diablo intune installed last weekend after 2 hours worth of back an forth from car to computer back to car a couple times, It was a headache but got it done, then this past evening, I put in 91 and tuned diablo to the 91 settings and HELLO 3.6! sure seemed like dodge detuned the run parameters. Looking to do another dyno day this spring to measure the difference with real #'s, my Butt dyno I can semi trust and added a happy 30 more HP, but the shop dyno will give the real #'s
 

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Too bad you've got to wait a year after a model comes out before you get supported. The '14s have been out for 7 months and we still ain't got nothin'.
 

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Other half of the equation

I got the diablo intune installed last weekend after 2 hours worth of back an forth from car to computer back to car a couple times, It was a headache but got it done, then this past evening, I put in 91 and tuned diablo to the 91 settings and HELLO 3.6! sure seemed like dodge detuned the run parameters. Looking to do another dyno day this spring to measure the difference with real #'s, my Butt dyno I can semi trust and added a happy 30 more HP, but the shop dyno will give the real #'s
No doubt about it, the higher octane tunes make these cars more fun to drive. But if you have the disposable income available, I highly recommend getting a TranZformer trans cntrl module to compliment the tuner.

It won't add any HP per se, but when u start getting 2nd gear scratch, you'll need surgery to remove the perma-grin plastered on your face. And that's worth it's weight in gold IMHO.

Happy Haulin'
Nuke
 

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Don't forget to do some datalogging with the new tune in place to make sure there isn't any detonation going on at WOT, causing the computer to pull timing in response. If you do see some KR, you can adjust the WOT Fuel in that RPM range (making it more rich) to try to get rid of it, thus reclaiming the performance lost when the timing is automatically retarded by the computer.

If any performance is being left on the table because of WOT KR, it's likely not a lot, but if you are interested in squeezing every last drop of HP out of the new tune, this would be a good place to start (getting a custom tune done for your particular car would be the other option, but that costs $$ and this way doesn't).

Nuke
 

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I've done an idle recording, a parked throttle goose, a freeway WOT Merge, and a freeway cruise. Now to figure out the results.
 

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Datalog Interpreting

I've done an idle recording, a parked throttle goose, a freeway WOT Merge, and a freeway cruise. Now to figure out the results.
It's not too bad, once you filter out all the unnecessary PIDs. Once the datalogs are saved on the tuner, unplug it from car and plug it into your PC or laptop. Then copy (or cut) the saved log files from the tuner onto your computer.

You will need the DataViewer software from DiabloSport's website to view the datalogs, so make sure it's installed and you can open it up w/out problem. Once that's good to go, use it to open up your datalogs you've downloaded from the tuner.

When they first open, there won't be much displayed. You can pick a dashboard that has predefined PIDs to graph, or just select the ones you want yourself. Either way, make sure the SHORT TERM KNOCK RETARD, LONG TERM KNOCK RETARD, one of the THROTTLE PIDs, and one of the RPM PIDs are displayed at the very least.

Then just use the software to scan the log looking for any values above 0 on either of the KRs. If you see some spikes anywhere and they occur at WOT (throttle is 121%), that falls under the category of something "fixable" like I described in last post (prob fixable, should be fixable, but sometimes it ain't).

If you see any KR occurring at non-WOT, like just cruising at steady RPMs, that falls under a different category - not something you can fix by adjusting WOT Fuel param, but should DEFINITELY be addressed sooner rather than later.

Anyway, that's a quick run-down to get you started playing with it, it's not too hard to figure out, I promise. I can post up some screen shots of my datalogs showing examples of what I am talking about if you want me to, but I can't do it until later when I get back home. Just let me know.

Nuke
 

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No doubt about it, the higher octane tunes make these cars more fun to drive. But if you have the disposable income available, I highly recommend getting a TranZformer trans cntrl module to compliment the tuner.

It won't add any HP per se, but when u start getting 2nd gear scratch, you'll need surgery to remove the perma-grin plastered on your face. And that's worth it's weight in gold IMHO.

Happy Haulin'
Nuke
The transformer will make a 2nd gear scratch in our little v6? If this is true I have to get one,2nd gear scratch is always fun to hear.
 

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KR Hunting in DataLogs with DataViewer

It's not too bad, once you filter out all the unnecessary PIDs. Once the datalogs are saved on the tuner, unplug it from car and plug it into your PC or laptop. Then copy (or cut) the saved log files from the tuner onto your computer.

You will need the DataViewer software from DiabloSport's website to view the datalogs, so make sure it's installed and you can open it up w/out problem. Once that's good to go, use it to open up your datalogs you've downloaded from the tuner.

When they first open, there won't be much displayed. You can pick a dashboard that has predefined PIDs to graph, or just select the ones you want yourself. Either way, make sure the SHORT TERM KNOCK RETARD, LONG TERM KNOCK RETARD, one of the THROTTLE PIDs, and one of the RPM PIDs are displayed at the very least.

Then just use the software to scan the log looking for any values above 0 on either of the KRs. If you see some spikes anywhere and they occur at WOT (throttle is 121%), that falls under the category of something "fixable" like I described in last post (prob fixable, should be fixable, but sometimes it ain't).

If you see any KR occurring at non-WOT, like just cruising at steady RPMs, that falls under a different category - not something you can fix by adjusting WOT Fuel param, but should DEFINITELY be addressed sooner rather than later.

Anyway, that's a quick run-down to get you started playing with it, it's not too hard to figure out, I promise. I can post up some screen shots of my datalogs showing examples of what I am talking about if you want me to, but I can't do it until later when I get back home. Just let me know.

Nuke
As luck would have it, a trip into the wilds of central Texas this weekend put me at the mercy of a small town's local gas stations with respects to gasoline, and victory is far from certain!

In other words, the modified Diablo tune currently loaded in my car requires a good quality 93 octane fuel, but that isn't something rural Texas towns are known for having in abundance. So I will utilize my tuner's datalogging functionality and DiabloSport's DataViewer software to check out how the gasoline I am buying here performs with my particular tune.

The first candidate/specimen is the "premium" gas sold at the local Allsup's convenience store. It is labeled 92 octane, so I had to break out the emergency bottle of octane booster I had stored in my spare tire well for just such an occasion.

Dumped OB into gas tank with about a gallon or less of gas left in it, then put 10 gallons of the 92 octane stuff on top of it and started my tuner's datalogger to start recording log files.

I managed to get 3 logs recorded before reaching my destination for the evening, and busted out the laptop to see what's going on inside the engine. Here are some snapshots of the three datalogs opened up with the DataViewer application:

This is the initial view of the log after selecting the predefined dashboard, DCX_07_UP, which I recommend for anyone just starting out using the software to peep their datalogs.
View attachment 187538

That's a lot of squiggly lines, and most of them are not needed for what I am doing. So I uncheck all but the two KR PIDs and the RPM and MPH PIDs to get a cleaner view of the pertinent info:
View attachment 187546

Now that's more like it; I can clearly see some short term KR has occurred, and that's bad, right?? Not necessarily. The mere presence of small amounts of KR for a brief instant is considered acceptable when the occur during a transmission gear shift.

If you follow the RPM line (ENGINE SPEED PID) in the screen shot above until the ST KR occurs, you see it correlates with a sudden drops in RPMs, i.e. a gear shift in the transmission just occurred.

So this log file is good to go.

The second log file was similarly devoid of any disconcerting data, so we are two for two with this 92 octane Fina gas so far, who woulda thunk it?

Uh-oh, may have spoken too soon:
View attachment 187554

In looking at the last log file's screen shot, we can see some STKR during WOT acceleration and some more at the shift point. The last degree can be written off due to the shift, but what about the others?

Well they are only 0.5 degrees, and they occurred during maximum acceleration under WOT. Given the circumstances I find myself in (92 octane gas with an untested octane booster), I am okay with this log file too.

I will keep datalogging the rest of the trip to make sure nothing changes, but so far my fears of being force to reload my stock tune just to make it home in a couple of days appear to be unfounded.

Now go out there AND DATALOG YOUR ASSES OFF PEOPLE!!

Nuke, OUT!
 

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Allow me to clarify...

The transformer will make a 2nd gear scratch in our little v6? If this is true I have to get one,2nd gear scratch is always fun to hear.
Perhaps I should have chosen a different phrase to use instead of "2nd gear scratch." What most people think of when they hear that phrase (including me, now that I think about it) is not exactly what you will get by installing a TZM on one of these cars.

It used to be that when someone said they could get some scratch shifting into 2nd gear, that usually meant they had had their 3 speed auto trans rebuilt and/or a shift kit installed, resulting in an audible "chirp" at shift.

And I'm sure today's high HP/TQ cars, like the RTs and SRTs, can still achieve this effect (with a modified tune to reduce or cancel out the torque management), but I haven't driven any of them and so cannot speak to that with any authority.

So let me try to clarity my earlier post on this subject so I am not making it sound like we can suddenly have the experience of driving and SRT with just the addition of a little black box tied into the car's wiring harness.

If you install the TZM into your car, you will NOT suddenly be able to chirp the tires at will just by giving it some gas and shifting from 1st to 2nd. That would require an abundance of torque, which we all know is in short supply with the 3.6L. Hell, factor in the 2.65 rear-ends most of us are saddled with, and we’d be lucky if we could pull a sick whore off a toilet.

However, if your tires aren’t too sticky, your road isn’t too rough, and the rest of your mods are all working together at peak performance, you can easily get a back tire to lose traction at WOT shift. Throw in something like a well-worn asphalt road or shifting in the middle of a left turn, and you can lose enough traction during WOT shift that the ESP/BAS will kick in and ruin all the fun.


I have spent a lot of money over the last couple of years buying a lot of different things to upgrade my car’s looks, performance, sound, fun-ability to drive, etc., and the TZM has been my favorite mod out of all of them.

 

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Perhaps I should have chosen a different phrase to use instead of "2nd gear scratch." What most people think of when they hear that phrase (including me, now that I think about it) is not exactly what you will get by installing a TZM on one of these cars.

It used to be that when someone said they could get some scratch shifting into 2nd gear, that usually meant they had had their 3 speed auto trans rebuilt and/or a shift kit installed, resulting in an audible "chirp" at shift.

And I'm sure today's high HP/TQ cars, like the RTs and SRTs, can still achieve this effect (with a modified tune to reduce or cancel out the torque management), but I haven't driven any of them and so cannot speak to that with any authority.

So let me try to clarity my earlier post on this subject so I am not making it sound like we can suddenly have the experience of driving and SRT with just the addition of a little black box tied into the car's wiring harness.

If you install the TZM into your car, you will NOT suddenly be able to chirp the tires at will just by giving it some gas and shifting from 1st to 2nd. That would require an abundance of torque, which we all know is in short supply with the 3.6L. Hell, factor in the 2.65 rear-ends most of us are saddled with, and we’d be lucky if we could pull a sick whore off a toilet.

However, if your tires aren’t too sticky, your road isn’t too rough, and the rest of your mods are all working together at peak performance, you can easily get a back tire to lose traction at WOT shift. Throw in something like a well-worn asphalt road or shifting in the middle of a left turn, and you can lose enough traction during WOT shift that the ESP/BAS will kick in and ruin all the fun.


I have spent a lot of money over the last couple of years buying a lot of different things to upgrade my car’s looks, performance, sound, fun-ability to drive, etc., and the TZM has been my favorite mod out of all of them.

Just so you don't think I'm trying to blow smoke up your arse, I offer the following screen shot of a datalog I recorded earlier today:
2ndGearSpin.jpg

At first glance that log appears to show me going from 7mph to 52mph in less than 2 seconds, I assure you my car is not that quick. That is due to wheel spin at the back tires.

But if you look real close, you can see the MPH continue to increase for another 0.7 seconds after the gear shift, and that's what I was referring to in my last post. There was no audible "chirp" going from 1st to 2nd, but when I shifted the gear, the tires continued their march toward eventual death for almost a second longer.

Now the Hemi gents may roll their eyes at such meager accomplishments, but let's face facts here: with the 3.6L+2.65 combo, we have to get our thrills where we can and enjoy them while they last.

Like I said, the TZM is my favorite mod so far, and this sort of thing is a big part of the reason why. Some may consider me a no-good beatnik hooligan for running around peeling scratch and such, but I don't give nary a fuk, it's my car, I'll have fun with it any way I choose!

Nuke
 

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Just so you don't think I'm trying to blow smoke up your arse, I offer the following screen shot of a datalog I recorded earlier today:
View attachment 188098

At first glance that log appears to show me going from 7mph to 52mph in less than 2 seconds, I assure you my car is not that quick. That is due to wheel spin at the back tires.

But if you look real close, you can see the MPH continue to increase for another 0.7 seconds after the gear shift, and that's what I was referring to in my last post. There was no audible "chirp" going from 1st to 2nd, but when I shifted the gear, the tires continued their march toward eventual death for almost a second longer.

Now the Hemi gents may roll their eyes at such meager accomplishments, but let's face facts here: with the 3.6L+2.65 combo, we have to get our thrills where we can and enjoy them while they last.

Like I said, the TZM is my favorite mod so far, and this sort of thing is a big part of the reason why. Some may consider me a no-good beatnik hooligan for running around peeling scratch and such, but I don't give nary a fuk, it's my car, I'll have fun with it any way I choose!

Nuke

Nice to see a visual verification of the transmission taking 0.2 secs to shift.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Nice to see a visual verification of the transmission taking 0.2 secs to shift.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Yeah, that part of the TZM upgrade tends to get lost in all the fun of the other stuff the TZM offers. But on the rare occasion I turn it off and have to endure the normal gear shifts, the wait is tortuously long for it go from one gear to the other.
 
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