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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Afternoon All, I've had the "normal" ticking going on since I got the car back in Nov.'18. It's a 5.7 R/T with 113k miles. Driving around one day as usual, I start hearing a tapping noise overlaying the ticking noise. So I proceed to come straight home. The day after, oil change is performed with filter, and spark plugs (16). I notice small specs of golden/brass tint not sure he material, but there was metal debris of some kind. Proceeded with the service and started car to notice the noises have gone away very slightly, but can still hear them. Left it parked for over 5 days now. Waiting for different shops to call back with their quotes on lifter/cam swap to full motor swap. This weekend, my oldest brother came to visit and showed him the issue and he diagnosed it as a rod/ rod bearing failure. I don't doubt the guy as he has experience in the performance and general repair field for a few decades. Started out of Harvs auto and dyno-tune in Santa fe springs/ whittier, and witnessed their builds and customers. My fav was Boyd Coddington may he R.I.P.!!! Anyway back to my issue here... I got about 4k to toss at the problem, but don't want to buy a can of worms, so to say. Any recommendations, info you may need about my car, feel free to hit me up. Thank You Very Much Everyone, And Stay Safe!!!!!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Can you record a video snippet of it knocking and post up for us to hear?
 

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If you wanna do some testing unplug the coil pack one cylinder at a time. If it goes away or is a LOT quieter that'll tell you that cylinder is the one with rod knock and that it's not something completely different. My brother's 5.7 we swore had rod knock but it was just a loose torque converter bolt. Took pulling the whole motor to figure that one out.

Also, rod knock gets louder with rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you wanna do some testing unplug the coil pack one cylinder at a time. If it goes away or is a LOT quieter that'll tell you that cylinder is the one with rod knock and that it's not something completely different. My brother's 5.7 we swore had rod knock but it was just a loose torque converter bolt. Took pulling the whole motor to figure that one out.

Also, rod knock gets louder with rpms.
Hmm the loudest the noise gets is between 1-3k rpm but remains even during cruising at 70mph. Will consider pulling the coil one at a time to see if the noise drops or something. Thank You Very Much!!!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Yeah, the possibility of the infamous lifter/cam failure is certainly a real one, but it’s much less common for them to develop a true rod knock, especially without some sort of “help” like running it out of oil or overrevving it.

That’s why I asked for an example of the noise you’re hearing. I suspect it isn’t actually a rod knocking, but there’s no way for me (or others) to make an educated guess until we hear it for ourselves.
 

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Yea I've never really seen rod knock on a hemi that wasn't either dry on oil or over heated and over revved. And with either one of those it's not gonna be just the rod thats knocking, that's a whole engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I've never really seen rod knock on a hemi that wasn't either dry on oil or over heated and over revved. And with either one of those it's not gonna be just the rod thats knocking, that's a whole engine.
That's what has me tripping, I've consistently had oil and sufficient radiator fluid. It's been bounced off the red line a few times back when I finished off a pair of tires this past fall (approx 17k mi. ago). I believe it was just a failure of many things such as oil pump failure, water pump failure, and common lifter/valve seat & cam issues... I'm confident to say oil lubrication was never an issue as I've consistently checked oil levels/consistency. I'm working on getting a video up today, just been overwhelmed with other issues. But love the feedback y'all!!! Thank You Very Much And Stay Safe!!!
 

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Hmm, harder to tell on video than in person but it sounds like a lifter failure to me, let's see what input someone else has. Also, does it have MDS lifters?
 

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Is it an automatic? All autos are MDS, manuals aren't. If it's an auto then that gives me an even better reason to believe it's the lifter cuz the MDS lifters are known to fail earlier. Try not to run the engine much so you don't damage anything else, you may be able to get away with just new lifters and a cam if you're lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is it an automatic? All autos are MDS, manuals aren't. If it's an auto then that gives me an even better reason to believe it's the lifter cuz the MDS lifters are known to fail earlier. Try not to run the engine much so you don't damage anything else, you may be able to get away with just new lifters and a cam if you're lucky.
It's the auto version. That's what I'm hoping for!! But don't know what would be worse case scenario, such as needing a whole new motor??? Thanks JD!!!
 

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Either way if it's top or bottom end $4k should be enough to fix it as long as you play your cards right. And if you're interested you may even be able to make it more powerful this time around when replacing parts without spending extra money.
 

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that sounds like a really bad lifter - rod knock is louder and a deeper pitched sound
 
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that sounds like a really bad lifter - rod knock is louder and a deeper pitched sound
I would make the same assumption. Maybe you can get under the car while it’s idling and see what it sounds like from the bottom end. If it’s quieter, then you could have a top end issue. A cam swap with new heads and the associated parts would result in some performance gains after the fix. Or just do an engine swap without even looking inside...
 

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Good Afternoon All, I've had the "normal" ticking going on since I got the car back in Nov.'18. It's a 5.7 R/T with 113k miles. Driving around one day as usual, I start hearing a tapping noise overlaying the ticking noise. So I proceed to come straight home. The day after, oil change is performed with filter, and spark plugs (16). I notice small specs of golden/brass tint not sure he material, but there was metal debris of some kind. Proceeded with the service and started car to notice the noises have gone away very slightly, but can still hear them. Left it parked for over 5 days now. Waiting for different shops to call back with their quotes on lifter/cam swap to full motor swap. This weekend, my oldest brother came to visit and showed him the issue and he diagnosed it as a rod/ rod bearing failure. I don't doubt the guy as he has experience in the performance and general repair field for a few decades. Started out of Harvs auto and dyno-tune in Santa fe springs/ whittier, and witnessed their builds and customers. My fav was Boyd Coddington may he R.I.P.!!! Anyway back to my issue here... I got about 4k to toss at the problem, but don't want to buy a can of worms, so to say. Any recommendations, info you may need about my car, feel free to hit me up. Thank You Very Much Everyone, And Stay Safe!!!!!
Have not listened to clip.

Specs of golden/brass material in the oil can be bearing material. (Copper.)

An oil analysis will confirm the presence of bearing metal in the oil.

The noise doesn't have to be a rod/rod bearing problem. It can be excessive crank shaft end play. IOWs, the crank thrust bearing has worn out.

And because I have not listened to the clip -- and even then an accurate diagnosis is more a lucky guess -- the noise might not even be from the "bottom end" but from something up "top", as a glance at the other replies shows others have suggested this.

Best advice I can offer is to try to quickly identify if the noise is from under the valve cover, or from deeper in the engine.

If deeper in the engine almost certainly this will require the engine be pulled and torn down. It is possible to replace the bearings as long as the crank main/rod journals are not worn.

Even if they are worn as long as the damage doesn't extend to deep -- which can lead to a crack and catastrophic failure of the crankshaft -- it is possible to have the bad ones hard chromed -- or some other metal build up process used -- then ground to size/finish to bring the journals back to spec so off the shelf factory bearings provide the right bearing clearance. Or the worn journals ground undersized and the proper oversize bearings fitted. For a street engine not all journals need be done if they are otherwise ok. Just the bad one(s).

'course, it would be a good idea to thoroughly clean the oil passages in the block and crank to ensure there is nothing blocking oil flow to a particular portion of the engine or a main or rod bearing.
 

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Much, much more likely to be valvetrain noise than bottom end noise and although it's tough to hear in a video my guess would be lifters/cam. Which is not an uncommon problem.
 

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Much, much more likely to be valvetrain noise than bottom end noise and although it's tough to hear in a video my guess would be lifters/cam. Which is not an uncommon problem.
Agree. Bottom ends are pretty durable. And a real knocking rod is not likely to remain in one piece long.

Still, someone is going to have to get his hands dirty and accurately diagnose where the noise is coming from and from this then make an educated guess as to what comes next.
 
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