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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cruising along at steady RPM on the interstate, I hear the dreaded DING and look down to see the CEL illuminated.

🤬🤬🤬

I woke the Trinity up and check the codes. It’s a P0325 - Knock Sensor on Bank 1.

No indication of what’s amiss with it; no Voltage High or Voltage Low. Just Bank 1, that’s it.

🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬

So I flip lid up on laptop and open up DataViewer. Connect to Trinity and start datalogging the various Knock PIDs with Live Output enabled.

At first the Bank 1 sensor was behaving just like the Bank 2 - constant and continuous voltage readings, mostly hovering in the 0.2-0.3v range.

The Bank 2 sensor was hovering a little higher, around 0.4-0.6v, but whatever, maybe Bank 1 is just different.

Then the Bank 1 voltage stops fluctuating and sticks on a voltage. At the same time, a LTKR value of 1 degree becomes steady and ever present.

Me thinks that sensor has finally given up the ghost after 200K miles...

I’ll diagnose further this evening when I have time, but for now, I think I will start planning on how to access and replace the Bank 1 knock sensor on a 5.7L Hemi.

 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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4,230 Posts
Reads like a good plan. If you go ahead with it maybe you should consider replacing the other bank's knock sensor too?
 

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‘18 Scat Pack 6 speed Magnuson blower
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24 Posts
I recently dealt with this same issue on a Durango, P0325. Turned out to be water getting into the connector for the sensor harness. I was seeing the sensor voltage flatline and the PCM was pulling spark timing with 7 to 10 degrees of LT KR. Really killed power and mpg. Before you buy new sensors, check the connectors.
 

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Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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9,483 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Reads like a good plan. If you go ahead with it maybe you should consider replacing the other bank's knock sensor too?
That would probably be a good idea, but I am only going to do one for now. I’m curious to see what the new one will look like (voltage-wise) compared to the old one and the Bank 2 one.

I recently dealt with this same issue on a Durango, P0325. Turned out to be water getting into the connector for the sensor harness. I was seeing the sensor voltage flatline and the PCM was pulling spark timing with 7 to 10 degrees of LT KR. Really killed power and mpg. Before you buy new sensors, check the connectors.
Interesting...my experience isn’t quite the same, the car never exhibited any drivability issues. The CEL popped, I reloaded the stock tune (which cleared the code), and then started driving again while datalogging the sensor voltages. The light still hasn’t come back on, and that was 3 hours worth of driving ago.

Ive already ordered the replacement, but I will be definitely testing the one I pull out and I will check that connector extra close now when I pull the old one.

Thanks!
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy- GONE :-(
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That would probably be a good idea, but I am only going to do one for now. I’m curious to see what the new one will look like (voltage-wise) compared to the old one and the Bank 2 one.
Or if you are cheap, and they are the same, swap them. See if the code follows the sensor, or stays on the same side. Then you will know for sure if it is the problem.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Or if you are cheap, and they are the same, swap them. See if the code follows the sensor, or stays on the same side. Then you will know for sure if it is the problem.
I had thought about doing that, and I still may. The one I ordered won’t be delivered until Friday or Monday. That gives me time to figure out the best way to get to them and practice taking them out and installing them by doing the ole swap and watch.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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9,483 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New NTK sensor arrived today, and I installed it without issue. Although I don’t have a torque wrench here, so I had to guess at what 15 ft/lbs of tight would be. That’s less than ideal obviously, but datalogs show no abnormal so far, so I will go with it for the immediate future.

Odd thing I discovered though, the sensor I replaced was not OE. It was in fact an NTK brand sensor, which means the original was replaced at some point before I got the car at 100K but after the factory powertrain warranty expired at 50-60K.

So it looks like I can expect to do this all over again at around the 330-340K mile mark. ☹
 

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New NTK sensor arrived today, and I installed it without issue. Although I don’t have a torque wrench here, so I had to guess at what 15 ft/lbs of tight would be. That’s less than ideal obviously, but datalogs show no abnormal so far, so I will go with it for the immediate future.

Odd thing I discovered though, the sensor I replaced was not OE. It was in fact an NTK brand sensor, which means the original was replaced at some point before I got the car at 100K but after the factory powertrain warranty expired at 50-60K.

So it looks like I can expect to do this all over again at around the 330-340K mile mark. ☹





I’m having a bank 1 knock sensor issue is this located under intake manifold??
Thanks for help in advance
 
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