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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The total number of mulligans I’ve taken on painting the rear spoiler for my car is embarrassingly high. So high, in fact, I refuse to provide a guestimation for how many times I’ve primed, painted, and cleared my rear spoiler simply because no one would believe that I’ve tried it that many times, and my post would be dismissed as hyperbolic and ignored.

Let’s just say I’ve done it many times in search of a decent outcome, and I was always thwarted by my own actions (or inactions) and would have to start over. Except for this very last time; I finally thought I had managed to get it right!

It took 24 hrs or so, but I can see now that I still have not done anything except ensured I will have to do it again soon. But for once, I don’t know what I did wrong this time, so I don’t know what to fix...

That’s where y’all come in. I’m going to attach some pics of my spoiler’s paint as it looks now (4 days after finishing) in the hopes someone who knows their way around a paint booth can recognize the damage in my pics and tell me what went wrong.

Relative data:
  • color, and clear were acrylic lacquer paints thinned with a scosche of lacquer thinner
  • I used both wax & tar remover and paint thinner to clean the target surface prior to actually spraying the paint.
  • Ambient temps during this were > 95F w/ ~60% humidity
  • the vertical sides of the spoiler don’t have any of these cracks in the paint.
The main cracks appeared 24 hours after last paint spray, and they continued to grow and appear 36 hrs later, and continue to grow in small increments up until today I believe (3 days later).

What did I do wrong, do incorrectly, or fail to do that caused the color coat under my clear coats to degrade and crack so badly??



Nu

Water Line Tree Wood Auto part
Automotive exterior Windshield Vehicle Automotive window part Glass
Wall Water Tree Plaster Glass
Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Automotive design Luxury vehicle
 

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2019 M6 Scat Pack
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825 Posts
Paint applied too thick. Did you use a spray gun, because it looks like rattle can. Need thin coats, wet sand in between. Something is wrong with the prep as well.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Paint applied too thick. Did you use a spray gun, because it looks like rattle can. Need thin coats, wet sand in between. Something is wrong with the prep as well.
This particular attempt wasn’t done with the traditional rattle can paints, although several prior attempts were done that way, and while they suffered from severe orange peel immediately upon application (too hot?), none did this San Andreas fault impression like the last attempt.

For this one (last two attempts actually) I used Dupli-color’s DIY lacquer in quart cans, applied with Preval sprayer system. Yes, that’s closer to a rattle can than anything else, but not technically a rattle can application. Besides, it did not result in immediate orange peel like the rattle cans did, so it was the smoothest method of application Ive found so far.
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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I only have experience with spray cans, and get my mirror finish by sanding and polishing, but knowing you have those skills, I'll comment

Unknown mixture (paint and thinner), yes, too hot, paint too thick. Possible surface prep, I use IPA or something like Prep, or Eraser. The cracks would indicate either pulling from the surface, or likely the paint separating due to mixture/heat. Were these attempts one after the other over the prior attempts? If so, there's one of your issues

You have what appears to be a very thick/orange peel surface. It may be difficult to get down to the original surface, or at least a flat smooth surface. Then it's thin coats of color for coverage, and multiple until you have good coverage.

The final level of gloss is going to come from the clear. Again, thin coats to build up. I then sand finer and finer until I level and get rid of any orange peel. Then polishing to get gloss. You appeared to be doing for a gloss finish? If so, once sanded smooth, you know the routine for polishing, at that point it's just paint. I do usually do 6 or so coats of clear to leave plenty of sacrificial to get sanded smooth

A Guy
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
6 coats?!? I can barely get 3 coats down before the sweat is flinging off my arms in all directions and onto the wet paint. Luckily I wait until the dead of night when it gets down into the high 80s, or else the painting process would truly turn into a fiasco!
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have decided to go back to the enamel spray paint when I redo this, which will put me into the double digits easily for attempts at getting this sucker painted in satisfactory manner.

Several coats of gloss black enamel and no clear should be good enough, assuming I get the surface properly prepped and primered.

And so comes to a close my unsuccessful foray into lacquer paints for automotive applications. It hasn’t been fun, nor has it been all that enlightening, other than to show me I’m no good at spraying it. I won’t miss it, and I won’t try it again.

Lacquer, you are officially dead to me. Good riddance!
 
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Premium Member
The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With that weather and humidity, it will be impossible to get good results with auto lacquer.
Precisely what I was thinking. And now that I have the proper justification, I just need to go buy a portable a/c unit large enough to cool the garage and figure out a way to seal off the opening I will have to crest for the exhaust duct.

But more importantly than that, can we convince Mrs Nuke of the validity of our backing evidence...she tends to view my reasonings for more automotive equipment acquisition with a very suspicious eye.
 

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At this point I would pay a pro to do it. I had mine painted for $200, while it was in the shop to repair some front fascia damage.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
At this point I would pay a pro to do it. I had mine painted for $200, while it was in the shop to repair some front fascia damage.
that would be the sensible approach to take, yes, but I’m afraid sensible no longer applies to this situation. “Sensible” was taken out back and summarily executed several attempts ago. We are clearly in the non-sensical phase now!

Plus, it has become personal. This spoiler believes it can beat me, get the best of me, and is better than me. I aim to show it how the cow ate the cabbage.

I will attempt a paint job on it exactly once more. If that fails for any reason, you have my word that I will take the spoiler down to the lake bridge and throw it over the side.

If it doesn’t want to spend eternity bobbing around in a watery grave it has one last chance to cooperate. Though I’m not optimistic it has overcome its propensity for spite, so we shall see...
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I cannot take seriously any article that purports to help troubleshoot common paint problems when it fails to offer a solution for the most common and aggravating paint problem I currently face - dead bugs in the dried paint.

Hell, I already know the source, it’s the bug zapper above my paint booth (read:table). And I know what you’re thinking, why dont I move the zapper?

Well because...wait, who’s on trial here, me or you??

I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I cannot be compelled to testify against myself, as prescribed by the protections afforded me under the 5th amendment to the United States Constitution.

That’s right, a little something called The Declaration of Independence has my back here, so this kangaroo court has adjourned!!

Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Engine Car
 
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The Declaration of Independence? Did you use lemon juice and some heat to read the fine print?

A Guy
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1001135


Looks like I’ll have a window tonight where I can spray the paint with ambient temps down in the 70s. All I have to do is stay up until (or get up at) 3:00am.

So the question now becomes, do I sleep on my creeper in the garage to make it easier to get up and paint, or should I drink a couple Redlines to make sure I’m still up at 3:00 and ready to paint?

The former option’s biggest drawback is I’d be trying to sleep in a garage with no air-conditioner and ambient temps in the mid-80s.

The latter option’s biggest drawback is I’d be trying to lay down paint with jittery hands from the excessive Redline intake.

Decisions, decisions...
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Humidity is a greater concern. Should be less than 40%.
Well then I’m hosed. It will be November before the humidity falls below 50% here (next to a lake).
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was thinking you might have had second thoughts.
“Second Thoughts” is my middle name, you know, but this spoiler gets no quarter!

It has one chance to live, time for it to step up and do what’s right!!
 
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