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At least 100 more in the cool factor :)
 

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The spot of doubt I do have from reading the thread however is if that air is truly being drawn from the Shaker (which I'm lead to believe), or if it is coming in through the engine bay (not likely). I say not likely because there is a delta in time from the moment I stop moving to the moment where my IAT warms up, vs an instant drop the moment I start moving again. This leads me to believe that the atmosphere inside the engine compartment warms intake parts that eventually heat the air passing through them; vs a cooler engine bay which doesn't have a chance to heat the air as much when it is flowing because engine is at driving rpm and car is moving forward through the air.
All theory I suppose.
As of this post, I don't have enough balls to actually tape off the inlet and find out if my Avg IAT's go up... but, if any one of you want to try I'd be happy to read the results! ;)
When sitting still the engine will draw air from the lower apron opening, which is fed from the lower grille.

Sitting still there's all the warm air wash coming from the engine, exhaust and the radiator - the CAI for the Shaker has that 3" x 3" square hole on the front face which is near the radiator.

That hole is there to prevent having the induction system act as a siphon if you drove through deep water (a vacuum break if you will).

When you get moving cool air is feeding from the lower apron and the Shaker scoop. I installed the CAI intake duct and the IATs drop faster and tend to be 3*+ ambient < 40*, and 4-5* at higher temps in motion.

I've seen the IATs on a warm day go up to 148* - the tubing wouldn't heat up that quickly as it would take a long time to cool down. Once rolling for a couple of blocks the IAT will drop 35-40* an continue to drop.

If you've ever been standing next to a car that's idling, there's all that heat coming from underneath with the exhaust as well as the engine - if you had an thermal imaging camera, you'd see this "cloud" of heat around the vehicle emanating from it.

I used to check out IAT temps on my former '09 R/T (stock airbox) and the lowest IAT was ~ 18*+ ambient but would run hotter than that.

That car only pulled air from the lower apron hole.
 

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When you get moving cool air is feeding from the lower apron and the Shaker scoop. I installed the CAI intake duct and the IATs drop faster and tend to be 3*+ ambient < 40*, and 4-5* at higher temps in motion.
My results were similar after installing CAI intake duct. When car resumed motion IAT's dropped significantly faster than without CAI intake duct. At cruising speed, IAT appeared to be 1* to 2* lower with CAI intake duct.
 

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Shaker HP

If you ask me it's the way in which the car industry reports their HP rating to the insurance companies. Most car manufacturers downplay reporting of the HP on their cars because the higher the horsepower the higher the insurance rates.
 

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If you ask me it's the way in which the car industry reports their HP rating to the insurance companies. Most car manufacturers downplay reporting of the HP on their cars because the higher the horsepower the higher the insurance rates.
That might have been in the old days of gross hp ratings, but many engines are SAE net and some makes are certified SAE ratings.

On modern Chrysler engines there's maybe 2% variance - the advertised power is the minimum level they'd put out.
 

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At least 100 more in the cool factor :)
i agree completely. don't care if it adds any. the eye appeal for me was worth the money of giving it the old time look & every time they run a shaker on the auction block like at mecum & shake the camera, i get a big smile & think mine might not be an old one but it has the best looking shaker ever invented. the ones on the old fords don't match & that reversed one on the trans am is stupid & on some years it's closed off.
 

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do you think the higher octane is what results in the higher hp for the m6? thanks.
The Rear Wheel HP difference is likely due to the M6 being a little less drag/loss of HP compared to the auto plus the tuning being slightly more aggressive.

The M6 models (mine is 2017) is tuned differently than the Auto which in turn is why it requires High Octane. I run only 91 and 93. I top off when I can when I see a Sunoco or Shell that usually has 93.
My 2017 also has 2.75" diameter exhaust and with the active exhaust valves sounds very nice stock. I'm not certain if this is the first time R/T's have the larger exhaust or if its only the M6? Some that have down graded from a 392 to the 5.7L have said the 5.7 sounds better or slightly louder. Maybe due to the larger exhaust?

All I know is I get a big grin from accelerating quickly in 1st and dropping into 2nd quickly while putting the skinny pedal to the carpet, and my 275 all season BFG's break loose!
 

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Someone with a shaker block off the induction vents (it will pull air from the bottom of the air box) and do a few 0-60s. Then unblock them and do a few more in similar conditions and engine temps. Compare the results.
 

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Some will say it adds more CP (Cool Power)

A Guy
 

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I thought it also improves SPG...Smiles Per Gallon. :grin2:

BTW I have been playing with HP tuners and there is a chart that adjusts for air filter flow.

It would be nice to compare a bone stock, same year, same engine shaker vs non-shaker to compare what the timing/fuel charts look like. I have compared stock auto vs manual and the manual shows more timing and fuel.
 
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