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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i know ive had rust bubbling through the paint on my 2009 for over a year now. It wasnt alot and it hadnt broken the surface so it wasnt that noticeable. As of this morning though trying to avoid my daughters ill parked car i didnt notice the bumper of my own truck an inch away and ended up nudging it putting a minor dent and ripping open the rust hole. The dent and scuffs i can repair myself as im no stranger to body work. However im old enough to know now that filler and fiberglass are NOT the correct way to repair a rust hole and i dont know how to weld so im wondering if anyone can advise me on the right way to fix this maybe with modern techniques that dont involve welding? Im not keen on spending thousands for a shop to maybe repair it correctly and im not going to use insurance and get my rates jacked either.

Thanks
 

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Insurance does not cover rust. There is no cheap repair for this that will last long term. You need to remove the foam to prevent it from happening again
 

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there are modern adhesives for rust repair to avoid welding made by companies like 3m.they work and can last a long time done properly
 

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For an at home, DIY...

Like mentioned above, without welding you are looking at adhesives. New cars use adhesives all over the place, in fact, the GM procedure for replacing a bedside on a 19+ Silverado calls for gluing the whole thing on, no welding at all.

3m, fusor, SEM all make good stuff. Clamping and dealing with the metal transition will be something you will need to figure out (laying the patch on top of existing metal for example).

 

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Those items stated above can work ish... but the real problem is getting that foam outta there and making sure all the rotten metal is gone or it's just going to come back fast !!! I read a thread on a charger forum awhile back on removing the back seat and interior area around it then using thinners/acetone to soften up melt foam and dig it out so he could do a better job on the hard to get to rust. I don't have the link but removing the back seat and a few plastic panels might not hurt if you can get a better idea of the problem my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks everyone for the advice. If this didnt turn into a dumb hole i could get more life from it just by treating the rust and then repairing it, but with a hole theres no good way to go about this. I also noticed this morning while taking a pic that theres rust bubbles from one side of the wheel arch all the way to the other side. But hey at least its still driveable!

1027006
 

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Hold on a sec, other than the tiny bubbling, THAT was “hiding” under a non-damaged rear quarter? Not old damage that was never addressed? Sux. Big time.

View attachment 1026971 Insurance does not cover rust. There is no cheap repair for this that will last long term. You need to remove the foam to prevent it from happening again
That photo makes every functioning orifice on my body pucker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hold on a sec, that was “hiding” under a non-damaged rear quarter? Not old damage that was never addressed? Sux. Big time.
Well there was rust bubbles in the entire area where the hole is, but yeah it was sort of hiding because it was still shiny orange on top of them. Once it opened up i was pulling out pieces of rusted metal that were probably only "solid" because of the paint. I got the car 3 years ago with 110K miles on it and im pretty sure it was a daily driver and never garaged so this isnt surprising. But im good with it because its what could afford and its a dang hemi challenger!! Thing runs like a dream still and the interior is immaculate so whats a little rust between friends. Joking aside, im sure at some point in the near future its getting both rear quarters replaced by a qualified professional.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After seeing the pic, I would do a full 1/4 replacement.

(Only because I can do full 1/4 replacements myself.).
if i could weld i would probably attempt it. so unfortunately im starting to think im going to have to settle for a temporary cludge job on the rust by treating it and then using filler and ill learn how to do paintless dent removal on the dent and then just get it cosmetically as close as i can.
 

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After seeing the pic, I would do a full 1/4 replacement.

(Only because I can do full 1/4 replacements myself.).
Like not just the skin? Holy hell, whatever puckered orifices I had remaining are now permanently closed. Glad u can do that yourself — I can’t imagine what a body shop would charge for that. So much, I’d imagine it’d be cheaper to junk the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Like not just the skin? Holy hell, whatever puckered orifices I had remaining are now permanently closed. Glad u can do that yourself — I can’t imagine what a body shop would charge for that. So much, I’d imagine it’d be cheaper to junk the car.
Not saying i can afford it but even if this was 5k to repair both sides thats alot cheaper then junking and getting a new one. And unless youre planning on staying in new then youre probably just going to have rust issues down the road anyway. Fixing this, if its done right by a good shop should make the car worth more and immune to rust issues(at least rear quarter rust) going forward.
 

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Not saying i can afford it but even if this was 5k to repair both sides thats alot cheaper then junking and getting a new one. And unless youre planning on staying in new then youre probably just going to have rust issues down the road anyway. Fixing this, if its done right by a good shop should make the car worth more and immune to rust issues(at least rear quarter rust) going forward.
I hear ya, and agree, however, given a decent repaint is more or double that (at least for a whole car), I can’t imagine it’d just be 5k. Would love for someone in bodywork to pipe in here…
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I hear ya, and agree, however, given a decent repaint is more or double that (at least for a whole car), I can’t imagine it’d just be 5k. Would love for someone in bodywork to pipe in here…
i would too and in spite of my positives if it is even around 5k or more it still may be cost prohibitive and result in selling the car or trading it in. There really should be a class action lawsuit against chrysler for this, 100k miles is a good long time for most of these cars, but the 5 year limit is bunk.

As far as a full respray, id expect a good shop to either paint match fairly well or repaint along hard lines or do some really good feathering. If i can do it in my driveway and have it come out almost unnoticeable then i would assume a shop could too.
 

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That foam is such a stupid idea they literally could have not put it in saved money on production costs and saved alot of people on repair bills ! My 2012 doesn't have a spec of rust but it's a hobbie/summer car. That rust problem, the one thing that kept me away from buying a charger for a daily after reading about guys 4 to 5 years into there loan and the rear quarters are rotting not under warranty I stayed away far away.
 

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I hear ya, and agree, however, given a decent repaint is more or double that (at least for a whole car), I can’t imagine it’d just be 5k. Would love for someone in bodywork to pipe in here…
closer to 20k for a double 1/4 replacement. That rust in the pic above is likely working it’s way around the wheel arch and into the outer wheelhouse.

If it was just the typical lower 1/4 behind the door, I would probably cut it open for evaluation and patch it (on my personal vehicle).

On a customer car it would be a full 1/4 replacement because that’s what Dodge procedures would call for.
 

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closer to 20k for a double 1/4 replacement. That rust in the pic above is likely working it’s way around the wheel arch and into the outer wheelhouse.

If it was just the typical lower 1/4 behind the door, I would probably cut it open for evaluation and patch it (on my personal vehicle).


On a customer car it would be a full 1/4 replacement because that’s what Dodge procedures would call for.
Thank you, OregonScat, that’s what I feared.
 

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Omg 20 k what what body shop do you work for the most expensive in the country !!! Iam kidding but that seems steep I was a automotive painter for over 10 years never would be that much at the shop (s) I worked for figured it would be around 8 to 10 k but if iam wrong no biggie
 

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Omg 20 k what what body shop do you work for the most expensive in the country !!! Iam kidding but that seems steep I was a automotive painter for over 10 years never would be that much at the shop (s) I worked for figured it would be around 8 to 10 k but if iam wrong no biggie
8-10k is what one 1/4 replacement would cost.
 

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has dodge ever said why the foam is there at all? i assume its to reduce road noise, but like we cant hardly hear any road noise over the exhaust anyways seems redundant. i know dodge has acknowledge that the foam causes rust issues.. so the question is why has dodge continued to use the foam for over a decade knowing full well that its a major issue and havent even attempted to atleast seal it up?

also since there seems to be some body repair specialist in this thread throwing repair price numbers around ill ask.. i just got a 21 scat so would it be worth it to take all the body panels off and remove the foam before the rust issues begin? how much would that cost? or just do the other option of just wait and scrap the car cause its not worth it to do the 20k+ in repairs on car worth less then 20k 5-8 years from now?
 
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