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I'm in the process of installing drop in Pistons on a 6.1 hemi, I have low mileage 30k so the motor is broken in. I will do a ball hone to restore cross hatch if needed. I just need rings to seat I understand why you should not use synthetic. I've always used the mobile 0-40. What oil should I use and how long should I leave it in ?
I'm also thinking I using the product 'quick seat' it sound like a good idea but as I said just reasurching that one
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When I put mine in a I ran 10 W 40 conventional break in oil you can buy it anywhere online for about 500 miles don’t babys it drive it like you want to


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Will say to run conventional drugs a while to help rings seat in. I didn’t and reason being. Hellcats and all other performance cars with zero miles roll off the line with synthetic and hellcat motors are broken in with synthetic so, to me it isn’t that big of a deal I guess
Maybe old school though process ?


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Which drugs are the conventional drugs?

A Guy
 

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Lol what ever is cheap that week.

He knows what I was saying but good catch lol


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Discussion Starter #9
Still collecting all my parts, have almost every thing. what did you use for the rod bearings ? I have very very low mileage so I'm sure standard size will be fine.
Rock auto has MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1808HN for a really good price. part number shows high performance and narrow.
what did you use ?
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That synthetic oil is too slick to let rings seat is an old (old old) wive's tale.

Every car maker that spec's synthetic oil for its engines breaks in the engine with synthetic oil.

Not sure how much real cross hatch the ball hone attachment will create. When I was faced with being unable to afford a rebore on my 318 Dodge D200 pickup engine I had to rebuild I borrowed a real hone from work -- I worked at a machine shop at the time -- and did a hone at home on my driveway. I had a dial bore gauge and was careful to not take any metal out just hone long enough to rough up the bores.
 

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I'm using 30w Lucas high zinc break in oil, maybe it doesn't make a difference but on a high dollar build I'm following the advice of the builder I used for the machine work: 500 miles break in oil with 2 filter changes, conventional oil until 1000 miles, then synthetic.

With a roller valve train the only parts that require a wear in period are the rings.
I would consider disabling the boost for a few hundred miles, not sure how that might affect the wear in process.
 

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I'm in the process of installing drop in Pistons on a 6.1 hemi, I have low mileage 30k so the motor is broken in. I will do a ball hone to restore cross hatch if needed. I just need rings to seat I understand why you should not use synthetic. I've always used the mobile 0-40. What oil should I use and how long should I leave it in ?
I'm also thinking I using the product 'quick seat' it sound like a good idea but as I said just reasurching that one
Thanks
At 30k, I'd bite the bullet and get some 0.010 over drop ins. My 0.035" drop ins took a while to seal up. I have about 1,000 miles on them now and any oil usage seems to have stopped.

The motor was cranked, ran for 125 miles and dyno'd on Torco 40 weight. We then switched to Pennzoil 0w40. Due to some high initial oil consumption, I switched to regular Pennzoil 10W40.

I will run this for maybe 2k and then switch to AMSOIL XL 10w40.

Don't fret the break in... use a high zinc break in oil and give it hell. The main thing you want to avoid is excessive idling, as this MIGHT glaze the bores.

Definitely put some load on it as soon as your sure there are no mechanical issues.
 
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