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I was wondering if anyone has pics of these on a challenger with a PD blower. I saw the diagram on the ccv bible but would like to see pics of this setup on our cars. I have a Techco supercharger and want to attempt something like this on my car.
 

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Tap 1/2 vent line from passenger side valve cover run it below PCM put a filter on it .
Tap drivers side valve cover run it through CC and connect to blower inlet. Toss PCV valve and plug inlet and outlets .

More power , no blow-by all around best set up. Look at my signature that's how mine is done . Read small oil leak thread in the vendor KB section.
 

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Tap 1/2 vent line from passenger side valve cover run it below PCM put a filter on it .
Tap drivers side valve cover run it through CC and connect to blower inlet. Toss PCV valve and plug inlet and outlets .

More power , no blow-by all around best set up. Look at my signature that's how mine is done . Read small oil leak thread in the vendor KB section.
So you get no oil in the filter or catch can? Why do you plug the pvc inlet instead of using it for a port?
This would be much better than getting a 2nd catch can!
 

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So you get no oil in the filter or catch can? Why do you plug the pvc inlet instead of using it for a port?
This would be much better than getting a 2nd catch can!
Did you read this thread?

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f146/small-oil-leak-101135/

Its starts out as a oil leak then turns into CC talk for blowers.

Larger ports with larger hoses is why its better to plug the PCV lines ( read API CCV bible). You could use it but it not ideal. On the fresh air side (Passenger) where the little filter is you do get some light smoke from time to time that's why you run it deep down below the PCM area and you won't smell or see it. On the CC side I have not seen any oil yet in it and don't plan on it either. This CCV system dosent have those deep vacuums, when you let off the throttle the PCV does goofy stuff, I've seen CC fill up in one run at the track because of improper CCV systems. I really don't think you need to go to this level until your up in horse power.

The only time you get a slight vacuum is when your at WOT with this system and any CC pressure vents out passenger side as vapor. The demands on the CCV is completely different when you toss the PCV. Some guys will use the same principle but they hollow out the PCV so it will pass visual inspection.



If your seriously considering doing this you can PM your contact info and I can go into greater detail .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was running late this morning so I missed a few things sorry.
I am definitely going to do something, so far this looks like the best route without buying another catch can.
I'm running 13 psi boost and I don't like how much oil ends up in the cc. If you wouldn't mind send me a PM with all the info, seems straight forward but since youve done it already I'd like to see exactly how you did it.
Thanks!




QUOTE=chukarboy;1991537]Did you read this thread?

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f146/small-oil-leak-101135/

Its starts out as a oil leak then turns into CC talk for blowers.

Larger ports with larger hoses is why its better to plug the PCV lines ( read API CCV bible). You could use it but it not ideal. On the fresh air side (Passenger) where the little filter is you do get some light smoke from time to time that's why you run it deep down below the PCM area and you won't smell or see it. On the CC side I have not seen any oil yet in it and don't plan on it either. This CCV system dosent have those deep vacuums, when you let off the throttle the PCV does goofy stuff, I've seen CC fill up in one run at the track because of improper CCV systems. I really don't think you need to go to this level until your up in horse power.

The only time you get a slight vacuum is when your at WOT with this system and any CC pressure vents out passenger side as vapor. The demands on the CCV is completely different when you toss the PCV. Some guys will use the same principle but they hollow out the PCV so it will pass visual inspection.



If your seriously considering doing this you can PM your contact info and I can go into greater detail .[/QUOTE]
 

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This interest me as well but I must admit I have almost no idea what y'all are talking about. Anything that will make me empty out my CC less and make my engine run better I am I game for. I'll be taking my car to the shop for a 10lb pulley and tuning here shortly. So that may be the time for me to bypass the PCV system as well. No emissions down here so I don't have to worry about and sneaky tricks.
 

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This interest me as well but I must admit I have almost no idea what y'all are talking about. Anything that will make me empty out my CC less and make my engine run better I am I game for. I'll be taking my car to the shop for a 10lb pulley and tuning here shortly. So that may be the time for me to bypass the PCV system as well. No emissions down here so I don't have to worry about and sneaky tricks.

A couple things, Mr norms has a return oil valve that can be used so the CC will not fill-up, I thought Maggie also comes with a return system so the added CC should not be filling up that much.

If your under 600whp I don't think anything special is needed, For the KB guys (with Kit) I would get norms valve. My KB catch can would fill up every tank of gas (495whp) and it was a pain in the arss. For those above 600whp then I would make a change to a whole new CCV system IMO.

I did read of a guy that was installing a vacuum pump on his LX, but again thats 1k whp stuff. I think at our level its more important not to have oil entrainment into the intake and our CC (crankcase) are vented well enough to not build pressure in the crankcase .
 
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The 10lb thing probably isn't going to happen. I'm at 490whp right now at 8lb and 5750RPM redline. We bring that RPM up to 6200-6500 like it was before and I'll be seeing more than 8lbs of boost at the top and over 500whp. Plus the shop says the stock piston ring gap are probably too close for 10lbs. He wants to max out the 8 first then we will see. So later this month, says he needs to catch up from the holidays, he'll have my car a couple days to finish the tuning and double check all the installation of the Brembos and the Edelbrock. While it's in there I want to intelligently tell him about removing the PCV system and doing what you've done essentially. He may already know but in case he doesn't I want to relay it properly. I'll contact you closer to the date that bring it in to him.

Or are you saying that I need not worry about the PCV system right now because I am sub 600whp? Because I am still getting a lot of oil in my CC and I can smell oil sometimes coming off of a hard acceleration and letting the engine slow me down.
 

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More than a HP rating for doing pcv mod,,, would be how much blow by do you have.
99% of every FI install I see here has no PCV at wot. Dead heads. and the crank case gets stale blowby laying in it.
We been using vac pumps on motors in the bracket cars with 5 to 600hp for years,, again depending on blow by more than a HP rating, however the higher HP the more blowby normally beacuse most are high psi motors or spraying a big shot.
Alky motors we use vac pumps more even during when the motor is off. The vac pump pull the alky vapor out of the oil from the blowby while cooling down.
Ideal, is to achive a vaccum in the crankcase during wot pull. Seals the rings and keeps oil leaks down. its said about 10in vac is needed in the crankCase to seal rings and evac the motor blowby. At 5 or 6in vac you get a nice clean crankcase evac without having any positive psi the the CCase
I was told Too much vac and you have a chance of pulling the oil mist out that helps lube the wrist pins and pistons. But i cant valadate that yet.
FlatTop
I have been playing with vac pumps and the pcv systems for many months now.
 
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