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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone running the sos coil packs from dui on there 6.4 2015 or newer challengers, if so do you have a part number, i would like to run these on my 2015 SRT 392.
 

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It's 45850. Questionable if any advantage, but you didn't ask that :) BTW, time to change your sig :)

A Guy
 

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Don't waste your money on aftermarket coils packs. The fastest 392's on the forum are using the OEM units, as they deliver what is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's 45850. Questionable if any advantage, but you didn't ask that :) BTW, time to change your sig :)

A Guy

I went to summit racing and they stopped at 2014 model years, I did send them a message to confirm. I'll be replacing my plugs in the next coming days and having a fresh set of coils that are made better then stock I'm good with changing them out, whether it provides more power or not, more likely I will gain some power back with fresh plugs and be able to open up the plug gap with higher output coils. I have seen 3 videos where they have swapped coils for sos and each one did gain power thru the power curve, so that's pretty good, to me they may have been running a little rich anyways to get such gain. I have upgraded all my ignition systems over the decades on the cars I have toyed with, factory stuff is good but it's not the best, it's massed produced by the cheapest manufacture, so those company's who specialize in smaller markets tend to make better parts. I have tested in the past, in the 90's with wider gaps and found some power in doing so, typically an engine that runs fat will pick up power, car that's running lean or near lean will not show any gain- but adding more fuel just increases power output and you can take advantage of the larger gap in the plug.

So if the hemi is a little fat in some areas there is a better chance to make a little more power in those areas, if it is running a little lean the extra spark won't do much of anything, but the day comes for a tune, I will be able to tune in a little more fuel and make a tad more power overall, so the coils and plugs may not make a difference now, but come tune time will give me an advantage.

Most folks don't don't dive into the smaller details like this, I do and it makes a difference when you do enough of the smaller things. Oh the stock plugs are fine, stock coils are fine, no need to port intakes, no need to change exhaust, back pressure is good for an engine, those tires won't help, those tb's are a waste, oh that don't work, save your money. there's a 1,000 hp hemi running stock coils- add better coils and have 1,010 hp is the way I see it. I just ignore those folks and move on been doing this stuff for a long time.

I didn't get my little v6 to the 13's over 100 mph naturally aspirated by listen to all the "experts".

I need to go thru some pictures and get my signature updated soon, kinda miss the little v6, it was really fun to work on.
 

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"Quote" Most folks don't don't dive into the smaller details like this, I do and it makes a difference when you do enough of the smaller things. Oh the stock plugs are fine, stock coils are fine, no need to port intakes, no need to change exhaust, back pressure is good for an engine, those tires won't help, those tb's are a waste, oh that don't work, save your money. there's a 1,000 hp hemi running stock coils- add better coils and have 1,010 hp is the way I see it. I just ignore those folks and move on been doing this stuff for a long time.

I didn't get my little v6 to the 13's over 100 mph naturally aspirated by listen to all the "experts"." Quote"


Great attitude bud. Sounds like you're on top of everything, so you shouldn't have had to ask about a part number. LOL
 

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Looks like there are for all Gen III Hemis

Clipboard01.jpg

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't waste your money on aftermarket coils packs. The fastest 392's on the forum are using the OEM units, as they deliver what is needed.


I only say what I say because many folks on these forums buy into things like what you say above with out any real knowledge of what they are saying, they just regurgitate the same stuff.

So the fastest on this forum might be a little faster with a better parts, no? Maybe a stock throttle body would be plenty, but contouring the inside that throttle body and half shafting improves air flow so there is a chance to make a little more power and so forth. A hotter spark that allows a wider gap will make more power with a little more fuel and so forth.

So those that are the fastest could even be quicker yet making small changes to improve power out put, so why limit yourself to the idea the fastest run stock this and that when they could make the small changes even be quicker yet.

One who accepts these ideas like you say above and don't bother to try and improve on there quest for lower e.t's and mph thru the traps are not going to get any better. The small details make a difference, buying into the idea these small changes have no impact have a narrow mind and are limiting their ability to find more power and such.

So the attitude as you say comes from, I don't buy into your premise stock is good enough, there are better made parts and they do help. If I followed the advise from folks like you, do you really think I would have improved on my v6 performance? you might say so what it was a v6 and it was still slow. As far as I know it was one of the fastest v6 posted naturally aspirated. The same apply's to the hemi. The little changes will make a difference and help separate me from those who think there is no improvement.


You can do what you want and do what you believe, that is your choice, I choose to dig a little deeper and find the slightest advantage because that's what I do. Thanks for your opinion. I just don't agree with it based on my past experience.
 

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I only say what I say because many folks on these forums buy into things like what you say above with out any real knowledge of what they are saying, they just regurgitate the same stuff.

So the fastest on this forum might be a little faster with a better parts, no? Maybe a stock throttle body would be plenty, but contouring the inside that throttle body and half shafting improves air flow so there is a chance to make a little more power and so forth. A hotter spark that allows a wider gap will make more power with a little more fuel and so forth.

So those that are the fastest could even be quicker yet making small changes to improve power out put, so why limit yourself to the idea the fastest run stock this and that when they could make the small changes even be quicker yet.

One who accepts these ideas like you say above and don't bother to try and improve on there quest for lower e.t's and mph thru the traps are not going to get any better. The small details make a difference, buying into the idea these small changes have no impact have a narrow mind and are limiting their ability to find more power and such.

So the attitude as you say comes from, I don't buy into your premise stock is good enough, there are better made parts and they do help. If I followed the advise from folks like you, do you really think I would have improved on my v6 performance? you might say so what it was a v6 and it was still slow. As far as I know it was one of the fastest v6 posted naturally aspirated. The same apply's to the hemi. The little changes will make a difference and help separate me from those who think there is no improvement.


You can do what you want and do what you believe, that is your choice, I choose to dig a little deeper and find the slightest advantage because that's what I do. Thanks for your opinion. I just don't agree with it based on my past experience.

Well, you don't know me, or what I've learned over the last 45+ years of "playing with cars", so it's good that you have learned the basics of a "high performance" engine. You've built your V6 to run with the V8's, you enjoy doing this, and now your starting over again with a Hem project.


"Folks like me" have one thing to say. Just "carry on." You'll be able to get your 392 as fast as a HC, or maybe even a Demon.
 

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Great attitude bud. Sounds like you're on top of everything, so you shouldn't have had to ask about a part number. LOL
Ha ha ha ha
I only say what I say because many folks on these forums buy into things like what you say above with out any real knowledge of what they are saying, they just regurgitate the same stuff.

So the fastest on this forum might be a little faster with a better parts, no? Maybe a stock throttle body would be plenty, but contouring the inside that throttle body and half shafting improves air flow so there is a chance to make a little more power and so forth. A hotter spark that allows a wider gap will make more power with a little more fuel and so forth.

So those that are the fastest could even be quicker yet making small changes to improve power out put, so why limit yourself to the idea the fastest run stock this and that when they could make the small changes even be quicker yet.

One who accepts these ideas like you say above and don't bother to try and improve on there quest for lower e.t's and mph thru the traps are not going to get any better. The small details make a difference, buying into the idea these small changes have no impact have a narrow mind and are limiting their ability to find more power and such.

So the attitude as you say comes from, I don't buy into your premise stock is good enough, there are better made parts and they do help. If I followed the advise from folks like you, do you really think I would have improved on my v6 performance? you might say so what it was a v6 and it was still slow. As far as I know it was one of the fastest v6 posted naturally aspirated. The same apply's to the hemi. The little changes will make a difference and help separate me from those who think there is no improvement.


You can do what you want and do what you believe, that is your choice, I choose to dig a little deeper and find the slightest advantage because that's what I do. Thanks for your opinion. I just don't agree with it based on my past experience.
You sound a little full of yourself from many of your posts and act like every manufacturers "claims" of power gains hold water. They don't. If you think replacing coil packs will result in any power gain or is worth the money then it's true what they say. There's a sucker born every minute.
 

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You sound a little full of yourself from many of your posts and act like every manufacturers "claims" of power gains hold water. They don't. If you think replacing coil packs will result in any power gain or is worth the money then it's true what they say. There's a sucker born every minute.
I hear what you're saying, but in ddeennis defense he does not say every manufacturers "claims" of power gains hold water. He tries things, some work, some don't. To his credit when they don't, he says so. Many small changes, testing all along. When something did make a change, he says so. Maybe testing many CAI and seeing which ones work for him. He doesn't say his findings apply to everyone, just that they worked for him. He basically doesn't just go by what others say, he tries them himself. Even if you had experience with DUI SOS coil packs on your car, it doesn't mean he won't try them himself. If he's wrong, you can say I told you so if you want. He'll have checked it off his list.

Yes, we've all seen his posts of perhaps having the fastest NA V6 Challenger, but he made it faster, doing things others said don't work. Well, he found a combination that did work. And now he's making that trip on the 392. It's his time and money and whether you agree with his choices or not, he's seeing for himself if there's anything to be found there. Have to respect that.

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I use to run 396 big block chevy camaro back in the early 90's, even then it was known to run larger spark gap and possibly get a little more power. If you think about it, the old points you would run about .30-.035 plug gaps, the oil filled canisters was about 20-30,000 volt rating I think, later came the hei units they was around 40k volts give or take where you could run .045 gaps and if you bought an upgraded coil 50,000 volts you could run .060" gaps.


I ran the hottest set ups I could afford back in the day and I tested gaping my plugs from .045 to .060" and found I could get about .10 quicker in e.t. this was with a solid tune and chassis set up, where I was searching for the smallest power increases, back then I bracket raced and my car ran consistent. So i had good data and being able to make the change at the track and see results back to back showed me there was some truth to it, I did play with my jetting some but don't recall any major e.t changes. But the theory even back then you could increase jetting as well with larger plug gap and gain power.

Back then back in the 80's one of the major car magazines did a test on a hot ignition set up in a car, what they did made several passes then side snipped the ground strap straight off! they picked up power. I didn't go that far as they reported this as a last ditch effort if your digging for a 10th.

Now whether what I learn back then transfers to the newer fuel injected engine I personally don't know, but for me it's worth a try, it won't make it worse, having some nice solid better built coils that have a higher output doesn't hurt nothing, bonus will be if opening up the gap will produce a small pump in power.

Now the down fall doing this to a computer controlled engine, it is more closely monitored as far as fuel. theory is a lean motor that is already getting all it's fuel burned with a normal spark really shouldn't see and bump in power, but if the fuel is slightly fat, the larger spark should help burn more fuel making more power. Being the srt is computer controlled in may not see any power bump, but if the factory does have it a little fat at wot there is the possibility of a bump in power.

Now my v6 was my first fuel injected play toy, as I made changes to it, I picked up power, moved more air thru the engine and even on the stock tune I went quicker and gain trap speed. So the little v6 was a little fat at wot. So maybe the 392 is a little fat on fuel at wot throttle and the larger spark may give me a bump, but if not, later on with a tune it might make a little more power with a little more fuel added since it will have some top notch coils and larger gap on the plugs.

So the coils may not out of the box produce any power, having the power to open up the gap is where it's at. If these 2 things don't help make power then a custom tune gives me the best chance to take advantage of the two changes- the hotter coils and larger plug gap.
 

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At the end of the day your logic is sound in my opinion. I particularly interested in the results as I run Nitrous on my car. I also have custom tuning software. So if what you are attempting works out I may be able to get more out of my nitrous system by opening plug gaps and changing coil packs.


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Discussion Starter #13
At the end of the day your logic is sound in my opinion. I particularly interested in the results as I run Nitrous on my car. I also have custom tuning software. So if what you are attempting works out I may be able to get more out of my nitrous system by opening plug gaps and changing coil packs.


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Running nitrous you should run the best coils you can afford, with nitrous you build lots of cylinder pressure and it try's to snuff out the spark- another way to say it, the spark has a tougher time to make the jump on your plugs when running nitrous. This is why you close the spark plug gap from typically .025-.035" from a typical normal gap of .045". running the best ignition system is a must. So in your case with nitrous, upgraded coils should be done anyways.

I ran nitrous for over 5 years on a bbc, mostly for fun, not on a regular bases at the track, even with my hot ignition set up I still ran .035" gap, with nitrous the flame front is quick and it will burn all your fuel - unless your running super rich for which there's not enough oxygen to burn that extra fuel and if you don't have enough oxygen to burn that fuel, running a larger gap does nothing. In a case like this you will make more power leaning out the fuel. So messing with the plug gap in my opinion isn't worth anything. The better coils and higher output voltage just ensures the spark makes the jump to fire off the cylinder.

Another thing with nitrous is the timing, many times timing is way retarded and the fuel is rich- at least on the plate systems I use to run. Getting the proper fuel mixture right and then being able to push timing up delivers big results.For example in one of my bbc cars it ran 12.19 @ 110 mph, with 150 hp shot of nitrous dialed in I could run 10.80's @ 123 mph, also to note with nitrous short shifting can improve your e.t's and mph, in the example here naturally aspirated I shifted at 7,000 rpm to run low 12's, with nitrous I shifted at 7k and my car ran 11.50's, I dropped the shift point to 6500 and went 11.20's, I finally dropped it down to 5500-5700 and hit my 10.80's.

So when running nitrous, run the best ignition system regardless, getting proper fuel mixture with nitrous and running as much timing as possible and finding the sweet spot in shift points produces much more in e.t's and mph thru the traps. Oh and running a cooler plug- I ran 1 range cooler back then and was just fine, my heat signature was half way on the ground strap. So shoot for the proper heat range when running nitrous, the white porcelain shows pre-ignition, to much time will chip the porcelain, put balls of aluminum on it and such, your fuel mixture is on the base ring, you want a full turn of color, excess soot and really black is sign of to much fuel.

learning to read plugs and getting the timing right and fuel and proper heat range will get you more power.

I did a test once and only once- my bbc ran best at 36 degrees total timing NA, I went ahead and tried a pass with full 36 degrees on 150 hp shot of nitrous. I checked all my plugs and I had to replace them all, knocked off a lot of porcelain and had little balls of aluminum stuck on the plugs. This is when I was pushing up timing for best results, if memory serves me right I think I ended up with 32 degrees total timing. Back then it was 2 degrees retard for each 50 hp shot of nitrous and I played it safe in the beginning running 28 total. The day at the track I made a pass at 28 degrees total, then pushed it to 30 and went faster, then to 32 and went faster and made a full jump to 36 since I was running short on time, it was my last pass of the day. I think I just went back to 32 and left it their, I don't remember if I tried pushing it higher than this at a later date.

Remember or you should know, if you do any testing at the track, pay attention to trap speed, trap speed is the sign of power, when power goes up so does the trap speed.

E.T. is only how efficient you are using your hp, e.t. is not a good source for hp tuning. e.t. is good for suspension/chassis work and getting the car down the track.

Hope some of this helps.
 

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Thanks for all of your encouraging words. Most of what you suggested I already do. I run 2 heat ranges colder on the plugs. I use the same formula of 2 degrees retard on timing per 50 shot. And I run race gas at the track. I have my plugs gapped at .030. I haven’t started playing with leaning the car out because I’m happy with where I’m at thus far. I will take your advice on playing with shift points. I typically shift at 6800 all of the time. I never thought about lowering the shift point. On motor my car runs 12.7#’s. On a 100 shot I’ve gone 11.88 @117. I’m really happy so far but things can always be better. Thanks for sharing your experience.


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